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Old 06-22-2015, 02:13 PM   #1
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Dash air conditioning

Hi,
We have a Georgie Boy Cruisemaster with a Workhorse and only 18000 miles. Our dash air conditioner does not send cool air. Our air conditioning compressor has been replaced because of a clutch problem. Our Workhorse shop cannot find the problem -- no leaks, but losing Freon.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Diana L.
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Old 06-22-2015, 03:58 PM   #2
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You definitely have a leak.

Get a can of the ultraviolet dye & kit to help you see it. You can put the dye into the AC system and then add enough Freon to get the compressor to run in order to circulate the dye throughout the system. Once you've done this start looking for a leak using ultraviolet light and yellow glasses that come with the kit.

You will have to check every hose fitting starting at the compressor all the way to the evaporator. It is easier to see the ultraviolet dye at night or in a dark place.

I bough a kit at Walmart that helped me find a leak on my Suburban. It turned out to be a bad O-ring on a plug that was in the compressor.
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Old 06-24-2015, 05:12 PM   #3
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Dash AC

Thank you so much for the reply, JawJames (sp?) Our workshorse shop told me they have already tried that. Great idea to go to Walmart, pick up UV dye and try it myself. May our shop was not real careful.

Thanks,
Diana
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Old 06-24-2015, 05:28 PM   #4
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How do you know you had clutch problems? If you system doesn't have freon the clutch want engage. If you can't find see the leak it might be the coil which is hard to get to most of the time.
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:10 PM   #5
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clutch thing

Thanks Thai_Rooster,

Used to have a terrible screaming while idling. Shop said it had something to do with the clutch and AC compressor. Replaced compressor. Does not scream anymore.

They are still willing to work on it. Losing confidence.

Thanks,
Diana L.
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:21 PM   #6
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Maybe you need an air conditioning shop instead of a Workhorse chassis shop. Only the engine-mounted compressor came with the chassis - everything else was added by the RV builder and the Workhorse guys probably aren't a/c system experts.
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:37 PM   #7
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Did you check the blower motor squirrel cage. If the plastic cage is broke, there is no forced air. Easy and inexpensive DIY fix. Replacement plastic cage is available at Auto Zone.
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:56 AM   #8
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You can only lose 134A refrigerant if you have a leak.

So leak must be found.
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Old 06-27-2015, 03:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MsDiana77 View Post
Hi,
We have a Georgie Boy Cruisemaster with a Workhorse and only 18000 miles. Our dash air conditioner does not send cool air. Our air conditioning compressor has been replaced because of a clutch problem. Our Workhorse shop cannot find the problem -- no leaks, but losing Freon.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Diana L.
Check the little blue vacumm hose that comes out of the firewall and goes to the vacumm controled heater valve and the there is a vacumm controlled vent on the box on the passenger side of the the firewall. Those plastic lines don't like all the heat from the engine compartment (not designed for that area anyway) and tend to deteriorate and cause vaccum leaks. The default for the sistem is heater mode so if you lose vacumm the heater valve opens and the outside air vent is also open which sucks in hot engine compartment air. If that is the case replace both vacumm lines and it should solve you problem. Hope I was of some help.
One other thing is when you are at low speeds (driving through towns and what not) alway switch to max air. That closes off the outside air intake and recirulates the cabin air. Otherwise you will pull in the hot air from the engine compartment. It's a good idea to alway set the air at Max anyway.
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DD788Snipe View Post
Check the little blue vacumm hose that comes out of the firewall and goes to the vacumm controled heater valve and the there is a vacumm controlled vent on the box on the passenger side of the the firewall. Those plastic lines don't like all the heat from the engine compartment (not designed for that area anyway) and tend to deteriorate and cause vaccum leaks. The default for the sistem is heater mode so if you lose vacumm the heater valve opens and the outside air vent is also open which sucks in hot engine compartment air. If that is the case replace both vacumm lines and it should solve you problem. Hope I was of some help.
One other thing is when you are at low speeds (driving through towns and what not) alway switch to max air. That closes off the outside air intake and recirulates the cabin air. Otherwise you will pull in the hot air from the engine compartment. It's a good idea to alway set the air at Max anyway.
I had this happen, the very small diameter vacuum hose got cut. One of these forums advised me to take the very small nozzle off a can of WD 40 and cut about an inch section out of it and use as a splice as it fit perfectly inside of the small hose. It worked like a champ and AC blew ice cold again. The Workhouse shop may not know of this and is checking all of the AC mechanics and they show good but if your coach uses the same small vacuum hose I would sure try this.

My hose was cut/broken in 2, very close to the bottom of the dash, and reachable..how hard would it be to replace the hose entirely as it could not be an expensive part?
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Old 06-28-2015, 06:59 PM   #11
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It's very easy. Go to auto zone and purchase a length of vacuum hose. They make connectors that transition from the small plastic hose to the regular rubber vacuum hose. They come in a package with different sizes. Also purchase a package of slip on couplings. They also come in a package with different sizes. Cut the plastic hose as close to the fire wall as possible. Install the transition fitting with a dab of silicone to seal the plastic line to the fitting. Then use the hard plastic coupling to transition to the rubber vacuum line. Problem solved. Those pesky little vacuum lines are designed for under the dash. Not for the heat of the engine compartment. If your really ambitious you can replace the vacuum line completely from the control unit to the hot water valve and the damper. Just depends on your under dash access.
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Old 06-28-2015, 07:26 PM   #12
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If there is a coolant leak then a simple pressure test will find it.
Expansion valves are a common problem on the system Workhorse used

And the hot water flow valve is another problem.

There are two ways to control how hot/cold air is.

Method one: (Rare) is to control air dams, either sending air through the Evaporator or the mini-radiator (Heater) core. By shutting the compressor off and running through heater you get HOT.. Run the compressor and send it through the evaporator you get cold Run the compressor and mix the flow you get cool. Mix the flow with the compressor off you get warm

The more common system is to run it through the heater, then the cooler and control water flow to the heater (Easier to do)

Run the compressor and shut off water = COLD
Run the compressor and limit water = COOL
Run the compressor and maximum water flow = Warm
So does shut off compressor and limit water flow
Shut off compressor and max water flow = HOT

If the water flows.. Air gets warmer or at least less cool.
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