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Old 01-11-2016, 10:50 PM   #29
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I got the Costco unit and it works pretty well, but probably wasn't designed for a large RV. I probably got about 10-12 rinses before it seemed to give up and I added the spare box of beads. If you read the Costco unit instructions, it's not suppose to exceed 15 psi at the outlet or it will run out fast. I placed one of my old dial type regulators on it. It worked well to keep the pressure down.
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:04 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
I got the Costco unit and it works pretty well, but probably wasn't designed for a large RV. I probably got about 10-12 rinses before it seemed to give up and I added the spare box of beads. If you read the Costco unit instructions, it's not suppose to exceed 15 psi at the outlet or it will run out fast. I placed one of my old dial type regulators on it. It worked well to keep the pressure down.

Don, I don't believe that running water through the unit at too high a PSI, will make the beads run out faster, rather the water needs to travel slowly through the beads to allow the beads to do the job.
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:32 AM   #31
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nforus: Anion resin is lighter than Cat-ion, so the Cat resin can settle to the bottom. I work in a steam power plant where we used to have a demin system for the boiler water cleanup. Acid and caustic are used to regen the Anion / Cation resin beads, which is not something you want to do at home or in an RV. We now use a reverse osmosis system. IMHO, that would be a good setup for an RV as it's chemical free.
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Old 01-12-2016, 12:38 PM   #32
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nforus: Anion resin is lighter than Cat-ion, so the Cat resin can settle to the bottom. I work in a steam power plant where we used to have a demin system for the boiler water cleanup. Acid and caustic are used to regen the Anion / Cation resin beads, which is not something you want to do at home or in an RV. We now use a reverse osmosis system. IMHO, that would be a good setup for an RV as it's chemical free.
Thanks for the info 427ford!!

We're going with the 2 bed system with Culligan tanks. It's the same as it is with welding gasses, when the resin is used up you take the tank to Culligan and trade for a fresh one, no issues with disposing of the spent resin. Steve Pinn posted on this thread that he was looking into a whole house RV RO system, it will be interesting to see what he comes up with.
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Old 01-12-2016, 04:16 PM   #33
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Actually we have several members on this forum that have already installed whole coach RO systems, I hope they will post. I am looking for a high output RO system (400 600 gal per day)
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Old 01-12-2016, 04:44 PM   #34
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nforus: Anion resin is lighter than Cat-ion, so the Cat resin can settle to the bottom. I work in a steam power plant where we used to have a demin system for the boiler water cleanup. Acid and caustic are used to regen the Anion / Cation resin beads, which is not something you want to do at home or in an RV. We now use a reverse osmosis system. IMHO, that would be a good setup for an RV as it's chemical free.
Retired CO........30+ years boilers/turbines/generators

Made DI water using Evaporators, Demineralizers (separate Anion & Cation AND Mixed Beds) then finally R/O Units.

Use an On-The-GO portable softener when we FTd and where in areas where water was hard. Mainly to limit scaling in water heater, faucets and toilet

DI water is OK for that spot free rinse BUT you will want to WAX after.
DI water will leech minerals because all are removed. Can end up dulling paint jobs.


Making huge amounts of R/O water requires a very large unit.
Our R/O Unit at power plant was capable of 800 gpm and took up a large building plus a very large brine pit for collection/removal of waste water.
R/O is very expensive

Making DI water by any means is expensive


Softening and Distilling water are 2 completely separate & different treatments of water
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:55 PM   #35
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Retired CO........30+ years boilers/turbines/generators

Made DI water using Evaporators, Demineralizers (separate Anion & Cation AND Mixed Beds) then finally R/O Units.

Use an On-The-GO portable softener when we FTd and where in areas where water was hard. Mainly to limit scaling in water heater, faucets and toilet

DI water is OK for that spot free rinse BUT you will want to WAX after.
DI water will leech minerals because all are removed. Can end up dulling paint jobs.


Making huge amounts of R/O water requires a very large unit.
Our R/O Unit at power plant was capable of 800 gpm and took up a large building plus a very large brine pit for collection/removal of waste water.
R/O is very expensive

Making DI water by any means is expensive


Softening and Distilling water are 2 completely separate & different treatments of water
Good info Old Biscuit. The systems I was looking at were between 4and 600 gal a day (I know that volume is ideal but I assume I should be able to get 200). Costs for the Filtration systems are about $750. And probably another 150 for pumps and switches.

Our full timing has been cut short so I put the project on hold as our tanks will be pretty dry for the next year or so.
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:04 PM   #36
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Here is what looks like a perfect unit but in order to generate enough water pressure and a 1:1 production ratio you will need a $750 pump system. The membranes, I believe, are proprietary (not good) but the system can be mounted horizontally. That would be great
https://www.reverseosmosis.com/evolu...Tr4aAliT8P8HAQ
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:03 PM   #37
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Actually we have several members on this forum that have already installed whole coach RO systems, I hope they will post. I am looking for a high output RO system (400 600 gal per day)

And this is going to be for your MH ?

How much water do you go thru a day.......?
Avg per capita water usage per adult per day is roughly 80 gal/day which is probably 4X the avg RVr uses a day

Where are you planning on storing all this water as it is made.....water tank trailer?

What are you going to do with the waste/brine water?


I'm just not seeing how this size/involved R/O System would be viable for RV use
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:11 PM   #38
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I don't understand why anyone would think drinking DI-water would kill you. I have tasted it, tastes fine, but there is no point in drinking it.

ek
Water is a solvent, as you already know. Drinking DI water can kill you if you drink enough for it to pull/flush minerals out of your body. You can die (literally drown) from drinking too much plain water too.
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:03 AM   #39
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And this is going to be for your MH ?

How much water do you go thru a day.......?
Avg per capita water usage per adult per day is roughly 80 gal/day which is probably 4X the avg RVr uses a day

Where are you planning on storing all this water as it is made.....water tank trailer?

What are you going to do with the waste/brine water?


I'm just not seeing how this size/involved R/O System would be viable for RV use
Yes for the RV. The capacity is for demand loads such as washing the rig. In most cases significantly less obviously. Our current water tank would be the reservoir. With the vendor's claim of efficiency there should not be an issue with disposing the effluent. As we will be processing fresh water there technically is no brine, water with an elevated TDS yes but not high enough to be an issue. Regenerating a water softener will, of course, discharge brine (salt water).
In looking at this capacity of system I am also removing my softner as you probably know unsoftned water will degrade an RO system faster I am hoping a larger capacity to system may prolong the life of the membranes.
BTW the one I listed was only one if several the big advantage of the listed unit it horizontal mounting
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