De-winterizing

[TRELL]

Ok now it's get close to get the ol'girl going again this will be my 1st. time doing this.When I winterized blew out all line,isolated the h/w tank and drain it, filled all line with red rv a/f drained the water holding tank and put red r/v a/f in it.Plus I drain all holding tanks and add a/f to them. Now how to get back to operational mode?

[Ramzfan]

Hi Trell. It's relatively simple to get back to operational mode. First, drain your fresh water tank and refill it with fresh water. Drain it again and refill. Run all of your faucets quite a while until all of the pink stuff is gone and you don't smell anymore.
Switch your water heater back to operational again and put the drain plug back in. Hook up to shore water and let the water heater fill, keeping the overflow valve open to allow air to escape. That's it...you're ready to roll. What you didn't mention was, do you have a water filter system and did you remove the filter? Do you have an icemaker and did you disconnect it? Do you have a washer & dryer combination?
Steve

[Camper Ken]

I'd never heard the advice to leave the overfill valve open when filling the water heater. By purging the air as it fills wouldn't that allow it to fill completely with water, then when the water heats there would be no air space for expansion?

[joecoolermn]

If you don't purge the air out, it will purge its self the first time you open then hot water faucet. There is no air space in a properly working water system, unless there is an accumulator installed.

[Libero]

Originally Posted by Camper Ken

I'd never heard the advice to leave the overfill valve open when filling the water heater. By purging the air as it fills wouldn't that allow it to fill completely with water, then when the water heats there would be no air space for expansion?

I don't understand why anyone would want airspace in the water heater? Please enlighten me.

The purpose of the pressure valve is to open if there is any over pressure. I often open my pressure valve when filling the HW tank.

[waroland]

If you don"t have air pocket in w/h, as the water gets hot it will expand and leak out of the pop-off valve. DAMHIKT

[TRELL]

Thanks seem simple but anyone can mess it up it be me.Just had anew hot water tank installed in home.They opened the valve when filling it then close it, opened all ht water faucet until all air was purged. turned tank on..My rv tank is electric and gas. will make sure all air is purged before heating.Thanks to all for input.

[Libero]

Originally Posted by waroland

If you don"t have air pocket in w/h, as the water gets hot it will expand and leak out of the pop-off valve. DAMHIKT

Water systems do not have air in there to counter expansion for the temp increase. Out flow from all of the tanks I have seen are at the top of the tank and as soon as a tap is turned on, any air in the system will be purged with air coming from the tap.

Any significant overpressure will be released through the safety valve. This is the purpose of the valve. But unless one has set the water temp extremely high, the coeficient of expansion of water is unlikely to cause the safety valve to open.

[mel s]

Originally Posted by Ramzfan

Switch your water heater back to operational again and put the drain plug back in. Hook up to shore water and let the water heater fill, keeping the overflow valve open to allow air to escape. That's it...you're ready to roll. Steve

WRONG!
The correct way to fill a water heater is with the t&p valve CLOSED, to establish a cushion of air in the tank....(any air IN THE LINES will purge out the first time the hot water faucets are opened).
RV water heater tanks MUST have a cushion of air above the level of the of the t&p valve in order to work properly!
If the cushion of air is lost the t&p valve is likely to leak.
Read your water heater manual or Google: "restore air cushion in RV water heater".

You said, "Switch your water heater back to operational again and put the drain plug back in. Hook up to shore water and let the water heater fill".

I'm sure you meant "switch the water heater BYPASS VALVES back to operational", (NOT the electric and/or LP burner).
NEVER turn the water heater ON if the tank is not filled.

[JohnBoyToo]

Someone mentioned the whole house water filter --- shouldn't that be taken out BEFORE you winterize ? and if not ? replace it ?

or is once yearly a good time to replace it anyway ?

We typically never drink the water out of the tap as we like the convenience of bottled water... just our choice...

[scooterbob]

Originally Posted by mel stuplich

WRONG!
The correct way to fill a water heater is with the t&p valve CLOSED, to establish a cushion of air in the tank....(any air IN THE LINES will purge out the first time the hot water faucets are opened).
RV water heater tanks MUST have a cushion of air above the level of the of the t&p valve in order to work properly!
If the cushion of air is lost the t&p valve is likely to leak.
Read your water heater manual or Google: "restore air cushion in RV water heater".

You said, "Switch your water heater back to operational again and put the drain plug back in. Hook up to shore water and let the water heater fill".

I'm sure you meant "switch the water heater BYPASS VALVES back to operational", (NOT the electric and/or LP burner).
NEVER turn the water heater ON if the tank is not filled.

RIGHT

[Gormleys]

Originally Posted by Ramzfan

Hi Trell. It's relatively simple to get back to operational mode. First, drain your fresh water tank and refill it with fresh water. Drain it again and refill. Run all of your faucets quite a while until all of the pink stuff is gone and you don't smell anymore.
Switch your water heater back to operational again and put the drain plug back in. Hook up to shore water and let the water heater fill, keeping the overflow valve open to allow air to escape. That's it...you're ready to roll. What you didn't mention was, do you have a water filter system and did you remove the filter? Do you have an icemaker and did you disconnect it? Do you have a washer & dryer combination?
Steve

You might also want to consider sterilizing your water system. There are two main ways to do it - using chlorine or using vinegar. Both involve putting the sterilizing agent of choice into the water tank in the correct proportions with fresh water for your tank size, then running it through the system using the pump and then rinsing it out with another tank of fresh water. If you don't want to sterilize your water tank, you can also use your pump diversion and just run the sterilizing fluid through the water lines. Also note it takes quite a few more gallons of sterilizing agent if you run it through the water heater, so you might want to leave it diverted as it gets heat treated every time it is fired up.

My wife is partial to vinegar, but both work well.

[mel s]

Originally Posted by Gormleys

You might also want to consider sterilizing your water system. There are two main ways to do it - using chlorine or using vinegar. Both involve putting the sterilizing agent of choice into the water tank in the correct proportions with fresh water for your tank size, then running it through the system using the pump and then rinsing it out with another tank of fresh water. If you don't want to sterilize your water tank, you can also use your pump diversion and just run the sterilizing fluid through the water lines. Also note it takes quite a few more gallons of sterilizing agent if you run it through the water heater, so you might want to leave it diverted as it gets heat treated every time it is fired up.

My wife is partial to vinegar, but both work well.

What is a "pump diversion"?
Do you mean "water heater bypass" ???
If so, be aware that not all RVs have a "water heater bypass" installed.
My '96 Safari, as built, has none, which is one reason I do not use RV antifreeze in my fresh water system.
Mel
Wisconsin

["007"]

De-winterize than to fun begins can't wait.