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Old 09-24-2013, 07:07 PM   #1
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dead battery causes lots of problems

All of a sudden our satellite dish would not rotate to the other satellite we needed and our remote door clicker would not work. We replaced the battery, but wouldn't work. We had tech come to fix our rear camera and lo and behold our chassis batteries were dead, as soon as we put the trickle charger on, voila our satellite and door locks worked. Our batteries do not charge when hooked up to 50 amp power, and we had an isolator put in to fix it, guess it did not work, trickle charger works best of all.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:18 PM   #2
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Install a trik-L- start on your rig and then the house battery charge will be shared with the chassis battery.

Most rigs do not charge the chassis battery from shore power or generator.

Ultra Trik-L-Start 5 Amp Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer With Out Battery Clips
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:56 PM   #3
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Ditto on theTrik-L Start.

http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deandec View Post
Most rigs do not charge the chassis battery from shore power or generator.
Both our DSDP's have so it depends on the manufacturer and how they wire it.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:38 PM   #5
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Mine holds the batteries at a constant 13.6 VDC while on shore power. I don't understand why any class A manufacturer would not set up to charge the batteries on shore power. I would be investigating why. IMHOP.....
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:38 PM   #6
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Mine holds the batteries at a constant 13.6 VDC while on shore power. I don't understand why any class A manufacturer would not set up to charge the batteries on shore power. I would be investigating why. IMHOP.....
Ditto
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:39 AM   #7
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Ditto
from what I have read most manufacturers do not set up to do that. I know mine does not I have a trickle charger that runs off of shore power.
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:38 AM   #8
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Rusty years, it certainly sounds like the "isolator" that was installed was not done correctly. I have installed countless numbers of these in coaches for people:
Sure Power 1315-200 Battery Separator

These are great devices.. they can be used as a "boost" by wiring up your boost switch to it or just simply wired between the house and chassis batteries - no control wiring needed. It's bi-directional, so if it sees 13.0 volts or greater on either the house or chassis (from your converter/charger OR engine alternator) it automatically connects the two sets together; if the voltage on either leg drops below 12.5 it automatically disconnects the two so it can never allow both sets to be drawn too low.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:08 AM   #9
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Both our DSDP's have so it depends on the manufacturer and how they wire it.
It's not so much how it is "wired" but what device(s) the manufacturer has chosen to install and whether it/they are working. There are countless threads on "BIRD", "IRD", "ISOLATOR", and other terms.

IMHO, the simplest, and most reliable, variation is the Amp-L-Start (an improved Trik-L-Start) and a high-current continuous duty Isolator/Boost Solenoid. Two different devices for two different functions.
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