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Old 03-10-2013, 08:50 AM   #15
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The inverters show 13.5 volts in the coach, the volt meter at battery posts show 6.6 volts on starting batteries only. Yes I can start engine with boost switch, gen starts OK the way it's supposed to???
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:02 PM   #16
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Putting an external charger on batts. Will try and give them a good deep charge. Seems maybe inv/ chg won't respond to completely discharged battery.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:37 PM   #17
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Gary, do you have anything in your manuals about the b.i.r.d. system ?
http://www.dodgenmobiletech.com/site...ay%20Delay.pdf
I am not sure why your house battery's are getting charged but not the chassis battery's........
This is from your manual I downloaded:

Some motor homes are equipped with a
switch to set the battery charge pattern.
The setting can vary depending on the type
of battery. Consult your inverter manual
included in the Owner's Information Packet
for additional information on battery
charge pattern settings.

Battery Charging
Both sets of batteries will be charged by the chassis
engine alternator and charging system while
you are driving. The DC power converter will
charge the chassis and house batteries when
plugged into 120-volt AC service or by the generator

(if equipped). If the battery needs to be

charged from a different charging source, please
follow these safety guidelines:
• Battery disconnects are to be in the “on”
position.
• Leaving a charger connected to a battery for
an extended period of time can shorten battery
life.
• Do not smoke near batteries being charged
or which have been recently charged. Please
note that batteries are being charged while
you drive, and while you are connected to
120-volt AC power through the converter/
charger circuit.
• Do not break live circuits at the terminals
of the battery. Use care when connecting or
disconnecting booster leads or cables.
Attaching booster cables, and poor connections
are a common cause of electrical arcs
which can cause explosion.
• As required and depending on the type
check and adjust the electrolyte level
before charging. Fill each cell to the indicator
with distilled water.
• Always remove all vent caps (if equipped)
before charging the battery.
• Do not charge the battery at a rate that
causes the electrolyte to spew out.
• In cold temperature storage conditions, batteries
may freeze if not properly charged.
• Some motor homes are equipped with
maintenance free batteries. Examine the
batteries and identify which type they are
so that they can be properly maintained per
the appropriate manufacturer's instructions.
• Some motor homes are equipped with a
switch to set the battery charge pattern.
The setting can vary depending on the type
of battery. Consult your inverter manual
included in the Owner's Information Packet
for additional information on battery
charge pattern settings.

Here is a manual and a good wiring diagram at the last page: http://www.discoveryowners.com/BIRD.pdf
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:25 PM   #18
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I do have BIRD system but didn't know what it was. I suspected that part when I was looking at coach. Nothing in my owners packet about that. Thanks for the reference. I will perform some checks here pic of what we are talking about.
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:56 PM   #19
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That's it, palehorse covered it pretty well if you want more info look up QT's 1 & 2, plus the new # 3.
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:47 PM   #20
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I have solar on both coach and chassis batteries, a follower charger, and keep the coach plugged in when in storage. The only parasitic draws are the engine and trans computers, and they would get pulled to the basement every couple of weeks.

When I replaced the chassis batteries a couple months back I verified the same behavior, so I just bought one of those schumacher battery maintainers at Wal-mart, screwed it to the panel under the bed, wired it to one of the 115 outlets, and hooked it to the battery at the isolator. No problems since.

As much as it would be nice to try to figure out why all these different means of keeping the system charged don't work, it was far easier to just add the charger.

I've read plenty about the parasitic drag of the drivetrain computers. Pretty amazing that back in 1999 when cars had more computers in them than these RVs do, they didn't have these problems, but Allison/Cat seem to have built something out of vacuum tubes....
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:50 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkydog View Post
I do have BIRD system but didn't know what it was. I suspected that part when I was looking at coach. Nothing in my owners packet about that. Thanks for the reference. I will perform some checks here pic of what we are talking about.
Hi, did you ever find the answer to your question? I am having similar problems with our, coach batteries won't start engine, I have to use the boost switch the last couple times. Inverter will show 12.8 or so, I shut the engine down, try it a few minutes later and the engine won't start, panel shows 8-9 volts. I hate to take it in for this, nor do I want to pull the batteries. It just sounds strange my problem is almost exactly as yours.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:03 PM   #22
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I am by all means not an expert but I would be checking for a dead cell in the chassis battery. Been there, done that.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:07 PM   #23
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I have been going though the same thing. Charge battery to full charge and load test and one time it test good and the next time it test bad. After 2 weeks of pulling the battery out I came to the conclusion the battery must be bad. Will buy a new one on the way home tonight.
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:12 PM   #24
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AGM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Not a Clue View Post
I am by all means not an expert but I would be checking for a dead cell in the chassis battery. Been there, done that.
It is obvious I am not either, these are AGM batteries, would they still have cells like the lead acid? I have this feeling it is a coroded ground issue....might get dirty and clean the connections where they terminate on the frame. Terminals seem pretty clean?
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:39 PM   #25
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I had same problem. I also had read somewhere in the volumes of coach literature about having the coach power switch--power switch toggle at door entry-- on before hooking up
shore power to enable charge to chassis batteries. I didn't like the idea that power switch was on prior to shore hookup. I installed TRIK-L and have not had a battery problem since. Maybe this will help.
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:24 PM   #26
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Hard problem to solve I added trik L start and all new batteries and still are having problems. The battery control center is what appears to allow the coach battery to drain after using boost switch but have not had a consistent enough of a problem to be sure. I have no instrumentation to show either way
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