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Old 12-24-2015, 07:33 AM   #15
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Very well put Steve. I love your analogy of solving a puzzle, because that is what it is. One small piece or bit of information at a time until you have the whole picture. With electrical problems it is truly a puzzle. That is why they are usually the most expensive items in terms of shop labor time to fix.
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Old 12-24-2015, 12:57 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Mr_Fixit View Post
.

Also make sure the emergency start switch on your dash is working so this problem doesn't leave you high and dry while camped.

Steve
Don't count on that. After 3 days our chassis battery was drawn down to the point where the battery boost would not work. It was a new battery and when tested it was good.

It doesn't take a large draw to drain the chassis battery. In our case we have a parasitic 4.5 milliamperes draw (about the equivalent of a light bulb) coming from the coach side and drawing the chassis battery down. Removing the fuses individually does not correct it. So we are heading to our dealer to let them trace it out. We have been using a trickle charger in the meantime.

Needless to say it is a bit of a nuisance.
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Old 12-25-2015, 09:52 AM   #17
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Motorhome chassis batteries shouldn't discharge any faster than your family car. Ours sets for weeks and batteries are fine. Just have to run down the source of the draw. Pull the neg battery cable and use an amp meter to see the draw then pull fuses until you see a significant reduction.
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Old 12-25-2015, 10:14 AM   #18
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Patti,
4.5 milliamps is nothing to be concerned about. That is .0045 amps. Now if it's 450 milliamps or more, then some concern.
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Old 12-26-2015, 05:36 AM   #19
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Motorhome chassis batteries shouldn't discharge any faster than your family car. Ours sets for weeks and batteries are fine. Just have to run down the source of the draw. Pull the neg battery cable and use an amp meter to see the draw then pull fuses until you see a significant reduction.
Thank you. My battery has screw on posts and noticed that they were both loose. I tightened and am going to monitor for a few days if that was culprit. If not I will do your method...
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Old 12-26-2015, 06:46 AM   #20
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Don't count on that. After 3 days our chassis battery was drawn down to the point where the battery boost would not work. It was a new battery and when tested it was good.

It doesn't take a large draw to drain the chassis battery. In our case we have a parasitic 4.5 milliamperes draw (about the equivalent of a light bulb) coming from the coach side and drawing the chassis battery down. Removing the fuses individually does not correct it. So we are heading to our dealer to let them trace it out. We have been using a trickle charger in the meantime.

Needless to say it is a bit of a nuisance.
If your emergency boost switch does not work when your chassis battery is drawn down (which is its purpose), it is is useless. You should be able to count on it, something is wrong.

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Old 12-26-2015, 06:48 AM   #21
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Thank you. My battery has screw on posts and noticed that they were both loose. I tightened and am going to monitor for a few days if that was culprit. If not I will do your method...
Great replies.......If you don't find issue I would go to a AUTO electric shop not RV dealer, they have test equipment for tracing down draw issues.

Might be a relay or wire issue that you can't see.

Keep us posted on what you find good luck.

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Old 12-26-2015, 09:30 AM   #22
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Patti,
4.5 milliamps is nothing to be concerned about. That is .0045 amps. Now if it's 450 milliamps or more, then some concern.
FWIW, the diagnostic electrician who found it respectfully disagrees with you. He says it is more than enough to draw down the chassis battery over a 3 day period.
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Old 12-26-2015, 10:23 AM   #23
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FWIW, the diagnostic electrician who found it respectfully disagrees with you. He says it is more than enough to draw down the chassis battery over a 3 day period.
This might help. It disputes what your electrician said, as 30 ma is considered a normal parasitic draw, and battery will last weeks.

Parasitic Battery Drains - Diagnostic News
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Old 12-26-2015, 10:24 AM   #24
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Me thinks someone heard wrong, I agree 4.5 milliamps is no issue 4.5 amps would be. It does seem strange that the emergency start is activated by the chassis battery, but that is the way it is, as I think of the emergency start is for the motor. To the OP what coach do you have? Have you checked your tail lights, possible brake switch or do you have a trailer plugged in and any emergency lights like,the type on many class A's that are on a recoil wire, this goes to one light can pull the battery done in short order.

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Old 12-26-2015, 02:47 PM   #25
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How do you know your battery is good?
I took the battery to shop and they said it showed good and just needed charged...fyi i did find screw in post was loose...can that be the culprit?
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:54 PM   #26
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I took the battery to shop and they said it showed good and just needed charged...fyi i did find screw in post was loose...can that be the culprit?
Definitely could be it.
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:24 PM   #27
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Trik-l-start

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Usually not. You need to get a Trikl- Start. Do a search. They are like $50.00
FYI...I did many searches and found the trik-start for 29.95...I elected 2-day ups (18.95 to IN) as I am leaving for fl this week... https://www.rvupgradestore.com/
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Old 12-30-2015, 02:09 PM   #28
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Usually not. You need to get a Trikl- Start. Do a search. They are like $50.00
...

FYI I ck'd voltage last 4 days: 11.42, day 2 11.26, day 3 10.9, day 4 10.4 not enough to turn over battery...i do have a trik-l-start being deld today...thanks for all of the replies
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