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Old 06-21-2015, 11:01 AM   #15
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I have a 2000 Safari Zanzibar and have the same issues. To start it is alum skin and there was a period of time at SMC that water-based bonding agent was used. And if any hint of moisture gets in there, it reacts and causes bubbles and will poke thur. Mine has been going on in the slide out and near the front awning arm. At first I tryed cutting out the damage, repair and paint, following year more bubbles, third year gave up and just put eternabond over the damage and paint to match. Got a quote to repair, $8000... Just living with it for now, yours appears to be more severe than mine, I just have small bubbles from dime to quarter size.. Have fun
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:02 AM   #16
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I was thinking perhaps a way to go about it would be to remove as much trouble material as needed, then start laying resin/fiberglass matting in to build it back up to level. Sand to blend in, then figure out what do do about color.
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Old 07-19-2016, 06:24 AM   #17
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I am determined to fix this before it gets much worst. I have read that the Safari's (which are a cousin to these company wise) had some of these same issues, and sometimes it was called galvanic corrision. They are aluminum skinned, so that isn't impossible.
I have noticed that often the problem areas are where interior screws holding things like cabinets are. This may be a starting place for the reaction. Not sure.

If you look in my first post, there is a panel on that slide on the top right. That is where the worst concentration seems to be. I have it in the barn now, and am thinking about removing the rivets on the trim and removing the window, and trying to peel off that panel. Perhaps I can get a better view of the damage then, and do some surface repairs to the wall itself. Then get a new aluminum panel (cut from a large sheet) and cut to fit. Anyone know what adhesive I should be considering? I was thinking that fiberglass would be my build up material where needed. So the adhesive should hold up to fiberglass and wood.
I'm not sure about the seam to seam trim.(see the bottom of the panel I am talking about in the picture) It has something on there now that looks like paneling trim. Any suggestions on how to trim this properly so it looks decent and most importantly seals properly?

If I can come up with a doable repair method, I can apply it to other areas, and maybe larger sheets ideally. If you have any experience with this, or can suggest somewhere to go for info on this, please say so.
Thanks!
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Old 07-19-2016, 06:58 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bucky1320 View Post
I am determined to fix this before it gets much worst. I have read that the Safari's (which are a cousin to these company wise) had some of these same issues, and sometimes it was called galvanic corrision. They are aluminum skinned, so that isn't impossible.
!
Here's some reading for you.
http://www.berridge.com/wp-content/u...ectrolysis.pdf



It's entirely possible this is electrolysis. I had a Cass C many years ago, which had an aluminum roof and front cap, while the sides and rear wall were fiberglass. Within the first year pin holes started developing in the front wall. I was told it was from electrolysis. The MH builder OK'd having the all the aluminum pulled off and replaced with a rubber roof and fiberglass front cabover wall.
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:18 AM   #19
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With that much galvanic reaction, you might want to have a good electrician who is very familiar with RVs and 12 volt systems to check your rig and wiring for what is known as "hot skin" issue. Just to be safe.
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:30 AM   #20
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That's a good read above. It is interesting that the spots seem to be near internal fasteners.
I would be open to a non metallic surface, as long as it came in an acceptable white color. Sure would be easier to ship I bet and handle as well.
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