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Old 04-13-2014, 02:28 AM   #57
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Well. Here is an analogy. Let's say cardiologist saves someone from getting an heart attack. If he makes money from treating the patient, is he not helping? Or if EMS send you a bill after driving you to an emergency room. I suppose they are not helping either because they are not doing it for free.

I spent money and time making this. Just as the cardiologist who spent time and money in his education. Who is going to pay for that? I have a lab that gets chemicals and I mixed them up. I found a combo that seems to work. Is it so bad that I am trying to hold onto my findings? Is it so bad that I am tryin to cover my cost of chemicals and time spent?

Helping doesn't always mean free.

What is up with the hostility? Did I harm you in anyways? uzzled: I haven't sold anything. I am just asking people if they are interested in this finding. What is there to be so mad about?

Anyways. I had enough of these hostile and negative folks. Don't bother writing as I won't bother reading it.

Anyone needs help removing their DS in similar condition as mine let me know directly and we can figure something out other than spending arms and legs.

Mod, if u feel this is an advertisement please delete all the posts I put up related to this and I won't feel bad or sue anyone.
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Old 07-11-2014, 05:36 PM   #58
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hi guys,
there should be
i need to remove diamond shield and mine is badly cracked everywhere.

Bought the coach used and i did not let it get this bad.

I have heard gasoline, plastic razor, scrapper, heat... And with all that it can take up to a week.

I have called the diamond shield directly and they are supposed to get back to me with estimate but it has been over a week. I suppose they are tryin to walk away.

Just wondering, has there been mass class action law suit against them yet?
if not htere should be
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Old 07-12-2014, 07:44 AM   #59
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Just a thought. Since DS is porous and that's the reason for mold, why wouldn't a fungicide work?
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Old 07-12-2014, 12:39 PM   #60
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It's not porous and it is not really mold just looks like mold
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Old 07-13-2014, 07:41 AM   #61
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While having my truck windows tinted the guy had looked at the rv. He qouted 300 it took longer than he thought. I ended up paying 400. I am not sure which is worse notsocold or the clear bras. He said that he tints and puts bras on all sorts of stuff including new lotus at the dealership. Recently he had to remove 3 still in the showroom due to yellowing.
He romoved mine with a steamer. About ten hours. If your in st louis pm me and I can pass his info along.
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Old 07-13-2014, 08:17 PM   #62
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I would be really proud to own a company that produced such junk that the customer needed to pay the same company to remove it.
Yep makes perfect sense to me
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Old 07-13-2014, 10:03 PM   #63
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Hi guys,

I need to remove Diamond shield and mine is badly cracked everywhere.

Bought the coach used and I did not let it get this bad.

I have heard gasoline, plastic razor, scrapper, heat... And with all that it can take up to a week.

I have called the Diamond Shield directly and they are supposed to get back to me with estimate but it has been over a week. I suppose they are tryin to walk away.

Just wondering, has there been mass class action law suit against them yet?

i had a sign shop for many years

i cant reamber the mane if it but it was made by 3M

its a spray on stuff works fast and could do the job in 45 mins

try .. dont call as we know the game in making money ... but go to a sign shop .. even better go to a sign shop suppler and ask for it

may have to look it up .. its not a very known thing as the shop want a 45 min job but costs you hrs

RV places want to make money off a new paint job
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:02 AM   #64
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i had a sign shop for many years

i cant reamber the mane if it but it was made by 3M

its a spray on stuff works fast and could do the job in 45 mins

try .. dont call as we know the game in making money ... but go to a sign shop .. even better go to a sign shop suppler and ask for it

may have to look it up .. its not a very known thing as the shop want a 45 min job but costs you hrs

RV places want to make money off a new paint job
I own a large sign shop. I tried all the trick we use to remove old lettering. From the rubber eraser wheels the hobby guys use to the monster 2 handed machines. Every chemical available for use removing vinyls. Its great to get the adhesive off after the skin is removed. We have specialized scrapers and plastic razors. Industrial heat guns and inferred. Stem sun and on and on. Had a guy on one of the threads that said he made a chemical mix that would work. I guess it does not work or he wont sell it. If it does work I am sure it would be marketable.

The only thing found that works for sure is elbow grease......
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:08 AM   #65
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I own a large sign shop. I tried all the trick we use to remove old lettering. From the rubber eraser wheels the hobby guys use to the monster 2 handed machines. Every chemical available for use removing vinyls. Its great to get the adhesive off after the skin is removed. We have specialized scrapers and plastic razors. Industrial heat guns and inferred. Stem sun and on and on. Had a guy on one of the threads that said he made a chemical mix that would work. I guess it does not work or he wont sell it. If it does work I am sure it would be marketable.

The only thing found that works for sure is elbow grease......

Steve, there's a super aerosol spray that removes decals (can't remember what it's called). Do those kinds of sprays help even a little bit?
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:41 AM   #66
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I bought my coach new about a year ago and Newmar had installed the Diamond Shield at the factory. To date it still looks like new other than a couple of bug stains, just a slight discoloration where I didn't get a chance to clean the bug guts off right away.

If I follow the DS recommended product care instructions, do I stand a chance of avoiding these issues with cracking, mold and discoloration? I try to follow these instructions closely but it's not always easy on the road to do all the prescribed cleaning and waxing.

Is there anyone out there who has owned their coach for many years without any problems? Sounds like I'm better off keeping up with appropriate product care than having to remove the film in the future but it does appear to be a lot of work! I wash and wax regularly but I haven't used that "303 Aerospace Protectant", is that product the key to keeping it looking new?

Here are the product care instructions from their website:

Once applied, refrain from washing for 48 hours, washing after that time presents no problems.
DO NOT USE HARSH OR ABRASIVE CLEANERS OR DETERGENTS.

We do not recommend ANY of the dry wash types of cleaners as they are intended for non-porous surfaces, paint protection films are a porous material. Car wash type soap is recommended. Bugs should be washed off ASAP. One bug cleaner we recommend is Bug Magic, but any similar product should work just as well.

Diamond Shield recommends the use of 303 Aerospace Protectant™, especially before any trips or Protect All (Protect All - Home Page) both of these products replenish and provide UV screening protection, repel dust, soiling and staining, and should be applied every time you clean the front of your auto/truck/rv/etc. For minor scuffs we recommend the NOVUS line of products. Waxing of your coach is recommended at least 3-4 times/year.

Prior to putting your auto/truck/rv/etc. in storage, Diamond Shield Nano-Fusion Paint Protection Film should be cleaned and waxed. We recommend Mothers or Maguire's Liquid wax. DO NOT USE wax designed for specific colors.


thanks!

Scott
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:46 AM   #67
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Steve, there's a super aerosol spray that removes decals (can't remember what it's called). Do those kinds of sprays help even a little bit?
No not at all
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:44 AM   #68
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No not at all
I tried 2 different kinds plus 3m brand. Like i said they
work good on it to remove the adhisive.
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:32 PM   #69
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I own a large sign shop. I tried all the trick we use to remove old lettering. From the rubber eraser wheels the hobby guys use to the monster 2 handed machines. Every chemical available for use removing vinyls. Its great to get the adhesive off after the skin is removed. We have specialized scrapers and plastic razors. Industrial heat guns and inferred. Stem sun and on and on. Had a guy on one of the threads that said he made a chemical mix that would work. I guess it does not work or he wont sell it. If it does work I am sure it would be marketable.

The only thing found that works for sure is elbow grease......
the last time i was here ISA International Sign Expo | Great Idea in 2008 they had it and thats where i got it .. giving you have a sign shop you should take the time to go here .. the last 3 or 4 times i have been there they had it 3M has a big stand and one other

i well see what i can do about finding there info but it was so long ago


i well add some pics to take you back .. not every day i can talk to a old sign guy

pic on left is the older unit installed new parts hard to tell what it is but you can see the older head .. pic on the right was a newer unit i was using and the last

wish i had more pics of my old shop and my old 6 foot build board printer

this was my dads old 1990s graphtec 60E when scanvec and SCV files was a thing well befor Flexisign .. i stop doing sign work at Flexisign 8 just befor 8.5 came out so i have been out of the seen now for a few years

we only had the sign shop over we made parade floats for a living
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:43 PM   #70
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I tried 2 different kinds plus 3m brand. Like i said they
work good on it to remove the adhisive.

what i am talking of is like that you say but it cut very very fast strong stuff but well not hurt paint

you start from the top spray it on and in about 10 min all the eadgs start to peal up and in 45 mins with out touching it... spraying it on about 2 more times 4inc latters would fall right off

if there was cracks in it from age like they used the 4 year and not the 7 year out doors vinyls it would cut even faster

if came in a galen jug and look at RC airplane fuel the color was how strong it was and how fast it would cut

one % did not cut so fast and was used for if you need to reinstall on what ever you where working on mins latter

the high % was for if you where not needing to go right back on with any thing right away

god i am trying hard to remember the name they used for this stuff
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