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Old 07-17-2011, 09:34 AM   #1
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Diamond Shield Removal Success

I woulld like to thank everyone who responded to my request for HELP with removing Diamond Shield from the front of my 04 UltraSport. I found a combination of products ,tools and methods that worked for me and was able to remove it in 12 hours. That was 12 hours of constant working...but it is gone! First I sprayed WD 40 on the entire area (soaking it several times) and let it sit over night. In the morning I modified an old tool I had used to intall the windshield gasket on older cars. It is a Dent Fix Plastic Lever Scraper Windshield Tool (about 6 inches long and 1/2 inch wide). I sanded one end to shape like a scraper and the other end rounded it to fit into the grooves. Then scored the shield approx every one inch (smaller areas are easier to work with). Using a extended handled razor blade scraper with Scraperite plastic razor blades (they come in 3 colors). Orange the softest worked best for me. Make sure you clamp it in there tightly. The tip of the original blade needs sharpening almost immediatly so I would re sharpen it using a disc of 320 sandpaper which made the blades last much longer. After scraping off the sheild working in sections, then sprayed the area with Max Professional Citrus Power Remover for ink and adhesive removal or Xylene (which I put in a spray bottle for this step) to soften the remaining adhesive glue residue and let it sit for 1 minute. Using the plastic razor blade scrape in one direction which leaves you with globs and globs of adhesive. You may have to respray the area several times while scraping. Then spray the glue globs with WD 40 or Xylene and wipe off. My paint held up very well and now on to waxing and buffing!
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:25 AM   #2
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Holy Cow Bat Man! Our shield is just starting to show some crazing and cracking...I'm not looking forward to the inevitable here. Thanks for sharing the operation. Bob
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:20 PM   #3
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Going to start tackling the project. My film has mildew underneath it. I peeled a small strip from the door handle area and it peeled pretty easy when the sun heated the area. Would a heat gun help to remove? thanks for the post.
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Old 08-03-2011, 07:26 PM   #4
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I was at the Tiffin factory a few weeks ago and watched the Diamonshield guy applying it...I asked him the best way to remove it...he said use a heat gun and use TWO people ....one to control the heat gun without getting it too hot and the other to pull the film....slowly at about a 90 degree angle...
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:54 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 02ultrasport View Post
I woulld like to thank everyone who responded to my request for HELP with removing Diamond Shield from the front of my 04 UltraSport. I found a combination of products ,tools and methods that worked for me and was able to remove it in 12 hours. That was 12 hours of constant working...but it is gone! First I sprayed WD 40 on the entire area (soaking it several times) and let it sit over night. In the morning I modified an old tool I had used to intall the windshield gasket on older cars. It is a Dent Fix Plastic Lever Scraper Windshield Tool (about 6 inches long and 1/2 inch wide). I sanded one end to shape like a scraper and the other end rounded it to fit into the grooves. Then scored the shield approx every one inch (smaller areas are easier to work with). Using a extended handled razor blade scraper with Scraperite plastic razor blades (they come in 3 colors). Orange the softest worked best for me. Make sure you clamp it in there tightly. The tip of the original blade needs sharpening almost immediatly so I would re sharpen it using a disc of 320 sandpaper which made the blades last much longer. After scraping off the sheild working in sections, then sprayed the area with Max Professional Citrus Power Remover for ink and adhesive removal or Xylene (which I put in a spray bottle for this step) to soften the remaining adhesive glue residue and let it sit for 1 minute. Using the plastic razor blade scrape in one direction which leaves you with globs and globs of adhesive. You may have to respray the area several times while scraping. Then spray the glue globs with WD 40 or Xylene and wipe off. My paint held up very well and now on to waxing and buffing!
Talk to me about scoring the film into small strips. The front of my rig is facing south and now in the summer I would say that the nose or front gets pretty hot without using a heat gun. The film is peeling fairly easy exceept when I try to pull to much at the same time, so your idea of scoring strips seems logical. I bought some orange colored plastic razors, how do you score using them or do you use another tool? I have peeled to the "M" in Mountain Aire and found that the factory installed the film and then mounted (installed) the letters on top. Now that is neat. I guess I can get new lettering fom Newmar. Or I can score around each letter? Till later.
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Old 11-10-2011, 07:28 PM   #6
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Talk to me about scoring the film into small strips. The front of my rig is facing south and now in the summer I would say that the nose or front gets pretty hot without using a heat gun. The film is peeling fairly easy exceept when I try to pull to much at the same time, so your idea of scoring strips seems logical. I bought some orange colored plastic razors, how do you score using them or do you use another tool? I have peeled to the "M" in Mountain Aire and found that the factory installed the film and then mounted (installed) the letters on top. Now that is neat. I guess I can get new lettering fom Newmar. Or I can score around each letter? Till later.
The front came off easy except one area where it also took the clearcoat from an area the size of a basketball. I wonder can it be spot painted, the color seems fine. Now working on the passenger side I am having problems because of the mildew underneath the film and because the film is thin or worn. I noticed that the film was thick in areas that were either protected from the wind and did not have any mildew. I am going to try the WD40 spray.
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:16 PM   #7
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The front came off easy except one area where it also took the clearcoat from an area the size of a basketball. I wonder can it be spot painted, the color seems fine.

I have had success with applying new clear over the base coat on peeled spots using the below ideas.

I use SprayMax 2K which is a 2 part rattle can with a shelf life of about 23 hours.

Clean the area and remove any loose pieces of clear coat with a scraper or razor blade. Use 800 grit wet sand paper on the solid clear coat surrounding the bare spot. Be very careful not to remove the color coat in the peeled clear coat area.

Clean again. Spray about 3 coats of Clear on the area and extending into the old clear coat surrounding area. Wait 24 hours.

You will have ridges where the new and old Clear coat overlap. Place a piece of masking tape on the ridge and also adjacent. Sand the ridge until the tape disappears and you are sanding down the ridge area only. Most of the ridge should eventually disappear. (The benefit of this process is that you do not sand on the naked base coat area until after the new clear coat is covering the base coat and you do not remove too much of the new clear coat.)

Then use some 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit wet sand paper in different directions to remove any scratches and extra orange peel effect. Buff with polishing compound and a rotary buffer (not an orbital buffer) to desired shine. Your auto paint supply house can give you some hints on the buffing materials.

By now you realize that I am not a pro. I have learned from some trial and error and probably still do not do it right, but I have been happy with the result on my 17 yr old rig which is fully clear coat coverdd.

Worst case is that you spent $25 on paint and a bunch of your time only to still have to take the job to the pro at the paint shop.
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:52 PM   #8
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I peeled diamond plate off my MH, just curious, would any of you put it on again? I definetly would not!
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:06 PM   #9
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I peeled diamond plate off my MH, just curious, would any of you put it on again? I definetly would not!
I would never buy another new Rv with the Diamond Shield on it. For the price they charge it should last way longer than it does.
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:39 PM   #10
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Our used Winne had it on for 7 years, what a mess!
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:43 PM   #11
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I would add that front of MH is like new after getting it off though.
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Old 11-11-2011, 10:34 PM   #12
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Would someone tell me how can a 2004 29 foot Daymon Daybreak tow
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Old 11-11-2011, 10:38 PM   #13
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[QUOTE="Ronnielee"]Would someone tell me how much weight can a 29 foot daymon daybreak tow
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:20 AM   #14
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I would never buy another new Rv with the Diamond Shield on it. For the price they charge it should last way longer than it does.
I might add ours is only 3 years old and brown spots all over under the shield. On a light cream color they really show up.
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