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Old 10-24-2019, 08:44 PM   #29
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The quandary now is how much of the problem did they actually fix along with how much collateral damage was done before they "Fixed" it. Were they running it for an extended period with a bad COP and an intermittent misfire, overheating catalytic converter, bad MAF sensor, water damage from the infamous vacuum cleaner intake tube under the font bumper, etc?

On an F53 made in that time frame one would really want to verify that it has the updated J tube intake on it and not the earlier style that points straight down potentially hanging down below the front bumper fascia. A 2005 Seabreeze for example could very well have been built on a 2003 or 2004 F53 chassis with the problematic intake tube. Without the J Tube intake many found that in a heavy rain enough water made it into the air filter to saturate is so badly that it came apart to be ingested by the engine damaging the throttle body or MAF Sensor at the least and in the worst cases destroying one of more pistons.


See: http://1999southwind.com/DOWNLOAD/F5...ke_4-24-22.pdf
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljwt330 View Post
A close look at the picture posted by the OP indicated the tape is over the Check Engine Light, as most suspect.



So, did you "get had?" YES, in that the CEL is covered and there must be a reason why that was done and a reason why it was not disclosed. How badly you were "had" depends on what the CEL codes reveal.
You can use any Auto Parts Store reader, to determine the problem, or buy your own reader for as little as $45.00. With some investigation, you wan figure out what the problem is (if any), and fix it.
Over the last several months, I have had a Check Engine light come on, and then go off after a few more starts. I keep Googling "intermittent check engine lights" for my Cummins diesel, and found an internet thread that recommended a shim kit for the fuel rail pressure relief valve. This solved the problem. Keep searching for a solution. I'm sure it's out there.
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Old 10-25-2019, 01:43 AM   #31
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Thankfully most RVs are not under the jurisdiction of CARB and don't have to be rectally-probed before a registration.
How I wish this were true.

CA smog test is required for all Diesel vehicles 1998 model year and newer, except commercial trucks over 14,000lb (Which have their own program) and all gasoline vehicles 1975 and newer. (Prior to 2015 it was 'less than 30 years old, but they changed that to a fixed 1975 cutoff)

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California really has gone too far with much of this, and are far beyond the point of diminishing returns.
Oh, HELL yes.

A few months ago I looked at buying an RV that had the MIL on. Error code said "Bank 2 Rear O2 sensor efficiency low". The seller advised me that he had replaced the sensor, and the catalytic converter, and had a Ford shop look at it.

Light wouldn't clear. On the actual emissions test, though, the tailpipe readings were clean as a whistle - WAY below the "Average" level, let alone the "Fail" level.

So why the @#%$&! can't that RV be registered? It's not polluting the atmosphere. There's some sort of system error, but the emissions are clean. Until the seller finds the problem, though, he owns a large expensive paperweight.
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Old 10-25-2019, 05:48 AM   #32
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Maybe just pull the tape to see what’s under it.
===================
Totally agree. Pull the tape off and see what light it was hiding. My VW had faulty information/warning lights coming and going for 6 months. Turned out to be a faulty speed sensor which cost 200.00 to replace at the dealership.
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Old 10-25-2019, 06:55 AM   #33
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What you are missing is that the seller concealed from the buyer a known issue with the vehicle. That is against the law ! In every state !
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Old 10-25-2019, 07:05 AM   #34
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What you are missing is that the seller concealed from the buyer a known issue with the vehicle. That is against the law ! In every state !
I've never heard that. If that's true wouldn't most used car lot salesman's be in jail
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Old 10-25-2019, 08:19 AM   #35
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Well I have a little bit of an opposite issue. My ABS light is on and I want it to stay on so I know my ABS is not working. Up here in the land of ice and snow ABS is a liability not an asset. If you have one side of the car on snow or ice and the other on wet pavement the ABS system senses the two tires on snow or ice and modulates the entire system like all tires are on ice or snow. I've almost had a couple of wrecks because of this nonsense. As a result I want my ABS light on because it tells me that I have control of my braking system not the defective ABS system.
That's not how it works. ABS only modulates the tire or tires skidding.

That's why all 4 brake lines go to the controller.
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Old 10-25-2019, 04:49 PM   #36
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sometimes the "service" light can stay on after needing an oil change or tires low or other warnings. It may be nothing. But yes I agree with the fellow that aid you went 2200 miles with no incident. How was the temperature???
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Old 10-26-2019, 11:43 AM   #37
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===================
Totally agree. Pull the tape off and see what light it was hiding. My VW had faulty information/warning lights coming and going for 6 months. Turned out to be a faulty speed sensor which cost 200.00 to replace at the dealership.
OP did in fact pull the tape off and no lights were illuminated. The tape did cover the check engine light and the ABS light.
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Old 10-27-2019, 05:46 AM   #38
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DO NOT REMOVE THE TAPE! it will void your warrantee!
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Old 10-27-2019, 06:11 AM   #39
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I have done this

my 94e350, the ABS took a dump... I unplugged unit and it sets a ABS Brake light..
I had dash out diagnosing the VSS speed sensor issue that was contributing factor.. Taped it....

In PA for state inspection it is not required as long as no light is on... fixed..

It is a klunky system any way that had front wheels skipping when they should not... 1994 had no frt wheel speed sensors..

Now my 1996 e350 minnie.. has the frt wheel sensors.. IT was also erratic working, mainly a 2 fault wiring issue of the vss again,, common issue in fords..

I had to run a new twisted pair from rear wheel sensor right to the dash cluster.. this repair by passed the abs splice in and the service connector splice in...
Hence I had a light on but unplugging the ABS on the 96 took the light out.

I never liked the ABS function in these earlier fords, trailer on back, turning and frt wheels hit road silt while braking, you stop turning and skid... I rather get use to driving cautiously ... Newer trucks and cars I use the ABS binders to not slide at speed LOL.... smarter technology..

In the OP case here he needs to know the issue.. then decide..
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:25 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by sibe View Post
I have done this

my 94e350, the ABS took a dump... I unplugged unit and it sets a ABS Brake light..
I had dash out diagnosing the VSS speed sensor issue that was contributing factor.. Taped it....

In PA for state inspection it is not required as long as no light is on... fixed..

It is a klunky system any way that had front wheels skipping when they should not... 1994 had no frt wheel speed sensors..

Now my 1996 e350 minnie.. has the frt wheel sensors.. IT was also erratic working, mainly a 2 fault wiring issue of the vss again,, common issue in fords..

I had to run a new twisted pair from rear wheel sensor right to the dash cluster.. this repair by passed the abs splice in and the service connector splice in...
Hence I had a light on but unplugging the ABS on the 96 took the light out.

I never liked the ABS function in these earlier fords, trailer on back, turning and frt wheels hit road silt while braking, you stop turning and skid... I rather get use to driving cautiously ... Newer trucks and cars I use the ABS binders to not slide at speed LOL.... smarter technology..

In the OP case here he needs to know the issue.. then decide..

The 2001 F53 had two sensors up front but only one in the rear on the differential so yes it was a compromise. I hate some of the systems that would fight back at you to prevent an imagined skid causing you to rear end the person in front of you in an emergency situation where you might not mind a little tire squeal and a less than straight track.

Even the best ABS systems out there can still get confused though they try not to advertise that plus as many of us have found out a little dust or a long hard stop with an RV can really mess up an ABS system as can failing to flush your brake fluid every two years before it becomes corrosive and hampers the operation of the ABS Pump and Modulating Valve.

As for the Original Poster their problem was the seller doctoring the dash to not show an OBD Check Engine Light.


Again the bigger issue with that generation of F53 with the V10 made prior to 2005 is to get the intake TSB taken care of so that they won't be chancing sucking a wet air filter into the cylinders. When I found out about this and pulled the air filter to check after being hit by a rain squall, it literally looked like the pleated filter left in a wet vac while sucking up water. Many were not as fortunate as I was to catch it in time and lost one or two cylinders on their V10.
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