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Old 01-30-2013, 11:49 AM   #15
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Thanks for all the great responses. I added some Howes anti gel just to be on the safe! As Grandad used to say, if a little does some good, a lot ought to do more! I think he was talking about grease, but I apply it to most everything I do. Also learned something about fuel delivery systems, I didn't realize returns were heated.

Gary & Janet
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:49 PM   #16
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Why use your diesel to warm the engine, if you are on shore power use the electric block heater not the Aqua Hot. On the high way you can run the AH without using the diesel burner, the engine will keep the water warm.

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Old 01-30-2013, 02:45 PM   #17
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My Aqua Hot also has an engine warming loop, I would use the electric heating element in the AH to further warm things up. You are correct, once on the road the engine heat exchanger would be enough. My original concern was how quickly I might experience gelled fuel. I think everyone as led me to believe, that with additives I should be OK. Update, now predicting -8 degrees at our departure. What's a few degrees among friends ?
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:10 PM   #18
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We're new diesel owners. .I noticed a button that says "engine heater" .. .what do you do with that? Sure I could read the manual .and I am. . but haven't gotten to that page yet. .
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:11 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by ChooChooMan7 View Post
Anti gelling additive in the fuel. Power service, Howes, stanadyne, or other name brand.

This and the block heater are two of the best bits I have seen in this thread.. We had issues with fuel gelling in some tow trucks when I dispatched them (Fuel quality is depressing these days).

The other possible issues.

brakes, if set, may be hard to release (Only when you first start out, once released they will function normally)

If your jacks are on the ground, they may not come up.. If they are on blocks, the blocks may be frozen to the ground but the jacks will come up.

Move motor home off blocks, tap gently with 8 pound sledge and blocks will pop free.
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:17 AM   #20
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If you have air brakes your line dryer should have kept all the moisture out of the brake lines. But, you might want to start the rig, let the air pump up, and check the brakes out a few days before you leave in case you have one frozen. I don't know how you'd add brake line antifreeze to a system like yours.
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:01 PM   #21
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If you have been through a few freeze thaw cycles your brake shoes can freeze to the drums. If you do your air brake check before you move it will likely free them up.
Jim and Jennie, Cats=Bittles and Potter, 2000 Dynasty 350 ISC
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:00 PM   #22
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I was in Abq and the temps were in the single digits night after night. Daytime temps varied from around 36 to 55.

I filled up with fuel in Abq, added no additive.

When I got ready to leave the water temp on my Silverleaf was 6 degrees. I used no engine heat, just turned the key, waited until the "wait to start light" went out and started the engine, oil pressure came up within 3 or 4 seconds.

My ISL manual states no engine heat is necessary until around -10 or so. Also talked to a Cummins rep and they said the same thing.

I also filled my water holding tank to about 70% full and had no freezing.

2006 Allure 430 #31437 (Cummins 400HP Engine), 2000 Tahoe Z71 Toad, Sanger V210 Ski Boat. Lifetime Good Sam Member, Lifetime NRA Member, US Army Vet
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