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Old 05-29-2014, 11:53 PM   #29
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Another idea that has been used is the opening of the rear grill. I cut 2/3 thru the slats and then reformed to the horizontal(Safari 96). It looked good and air passed thru at a much better rate.
Also, is the fan mostly in the shroud? If not, your ability to push air is compromised. There is a fan shroud, right?
Safari at one time changed the fan pulley and fan blade(+1) to increase the air flow.
Lots of ideas to run through. Bob
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Old 05-30-2014, 09:58 AM   #30
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overheating

I went through this with a side radiator unit. New radiator, over size water pump, new proportioning valve for hydraulic fan drive meeting with Cummins spartan and Allison - no solution.
I recommend you put in a bypass valve in your heater hose ahead of the heat control. This allows the hottest part of the engine coolant to circulate.
I didn't think of this until after I installed a second radiator with the air conditioning condenser.
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:18 AM   #31
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Update

Lots of good ideas. My shroud seems to be well designed and encloses the fan well but will look at possibly extending it further to the rear to facilitate airflow out the back louvers. The suggestion re the heater bypass is interesting, one thing I did not mention in my original post was the temps I referenced were all with the heater on. If I switched the dash heat control to cool my temps would rise 5 to 10 degrees so the heater core and 80' of heater hose were definitely helping shed some heat. Still hope that it is as simple as a good radiator boil out and keeping it clean. Radiator won't be back till next week, will update on the findings. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:23 AM   #32
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Got the radiator out today which was quite a chore and what little visual I can do it does to seem to have a lot of deposits built up. Will take it to a rad shop and hope it just needs a good cleaning. On the plus side it is a lot easier to do a good cleaning of the CAC with the radiator out. Will let you know what I find at the radiator shop and final outcome once it is buttoned back up and tested. Thanks again for the ideas.
If this is a side radiator I would be interested on how big of a job it was. I need to replace mine sooner or later and would like to know. I have a side Radiator FL chassis. Sorry to hijack you post for info. Jim
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:41 AM   #33
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Lots of good ideas. My shroud seems to be well designed and encloses the fan well but will look at possibly extending it further to the rear to facilitate airflow out the back louvers. The suggestion re the heater bypass is interesting, one thing I did not mention in my original post was the temps I referenced were all with the heater on. If I switched the dash heat control to cool my temps would rise 5 to 10 degrees so the heater core and 80' of heater hose were definitely helping shed some heat. Still hope that it is as simple as a good radiator boil out and keeping it clean. Radiator won't be back till next week, will update on the findings. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
All the time you invest in the r and r of the radiator, I would just put in a new unit in a rig that old. And a new fan clutch and I'd bet your heating problems would be fixed. I've had semi trucks that would run hot, we flushed and washed the fins many times to no avail, put in a new radiator and problem was fixed. If its a vis fan clutch they wear out and slip when they get old. Air clutches don't seem to have this problem. They either work or they don't, if their thermostat is functioning properly.
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:55 AM   #34
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New radiator ?

Mine is a rear radiator so not sure my experience would be any help to a side radiator removal. A lot of things had to come off to get to the mounting bolts holding the radiator/CAC to the coach. One thing that surprised me was that the backside of the radiator was siliconed to the CAC, took me a while to figure out why the rad wouldn't come out after all mounting was removed. I am still going to wait and see what my radiator shop recommends re replacement, I researched this radiator which was made by McCord and have been unable to find any kind of a cross reference for a new replacement. Did find an old post for something similar through Spartan to the tune of 1300.00 which was in 2007 dollars so if anything is available now am sure it is probably closer to 2000.00. Will replace the fan clutch as suggested while I am in there. Thanks for all the input.
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Old 06-02-2014, 03:26 PM   #35
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My other question is about auxiliary electric cooling fans. I have plenty of room to mount one on the outside of the radiator but not sure if I want to push or pull ? Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Great site and resource!!
Our rig had two electric fans on the back side of the radiator when we bought it. They didn't run at all, so I set about fixing that. I replaced two relays and now I could make the electric fans run. I hot wired them and stood back about 5 feet to feel the air movement. Then I shut them down and started the coach. At idle the air flow was like a hurricane from the real fan compared to a light breeze form the electric fans. (There is no fan clutch in ours, the fan is bolted straight to the hub.) Next thing I did was remove the useless electric fans so they wouldn't restrict the airflow from the real fan.

We also had similar cooling issues which were pretty much resolved by replacing one of the two thermostats and CLEANING the radiator stack. Multiple applications of Simple Green, a soft brush, and about an hour of garden hose flushing for each cleaning. BIG difference!

Clean radiator is a must have. It still may not keep you cool climbing grades, but even a proper sized dirty radiator is bad.
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:02 PM   #36
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Good advise here, the 210-220 is not a problem in itself. If everything is clean and not blocked and the temp does not go past the 220 run it.
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:22 PM   #37
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Another experience..back in 2005 CC had a overheating issue with their C13 Cat on the Magna series coaches. Took many tours at the factory and asked every time about a fix. The fix was to separate the trans cooler from the radiator. A separate trans cooler was installed. With the orig setup, the trans put out too much heat for the orig radiator/trans cooler. Once the trans hit its hi level of heat, the radiator couldn't keep the engine cool. Don't know if the new trans cooler had a fan or was just put in the airstream.
Bob
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:06 AM   #38
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I had my rad drained an refilled with Alliance Extended yellow today. When I picked up the coach I was talking with the mechanics and they all agreed that on the Cummins, most heat problems are nothign more than a dirty rad/cac. Said the worst thing to do was go to a car wash and spray it. Use a soft brush to clean with and after its loosened to spray it.
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:13 AM   #39
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Observation on the 5.9 rear radiators.
Sounds like you guy's have it figured out with the slobber tube and cleaning issues.
Mine is not a rear radiator but I still get hot climbing big hills for long periods of time, until I installed a Radiator misting system that I turn on as soon as the temps begin to rise and it works like a charm, maintains 190 to 200 degrees on a 5 mile 6% pull and that's with a 10,000 lb race trailer on the back. Cresting the hill and cruising on the down side all settles down.
Just a thought and maybe an option for your heating issues.
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:22 AM   #40
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How long have you had the misting system in place? Do you use distilled water? Do you notice any corrosion of the radiator fins?
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:32 AM   #41
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Larry,
I installed mine 10 yrs ago ( I'll post a picture ) if you like. I use tap water from home and the radiator looks great, sort of like driving in the rain and that always lowers the temps. Hayden makes misting kit ! Part number 100
Hayden - Radiator Mist System
Part Number: 100
Line: HDN
Limited Lifetime Warranty
UPC: 36752001002
Quick-Cool Radiator Mist System
Detailed Description
Complete Kit With Reservoir, Pump And Misters
On demand additional cooling
Unique solution to provide cooling in extreme conditions
Quality construction

Additional Details
Pump Included: Yes
Reservoir Included: Yes
Reservoir Material: Plastic
Wiring Harness Included: Yes

Last week I did my every 3 year cooling system maint. pulled the inter cooler for a leak check and thoroughly cleaned the Radiator with a Simple Green soak and rinsed with low pressure water- it was dirty.
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:23 AM   #42
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the worst thing to do was go to a car wash and spray it.
Use a soft brush to clean with and after its loosened to spray it.
SeattlePirat
On most "rear radiator coaches" only one side of the radiator and one side of the CAC is accessible for brushing.

The "inside of the sandwich" can only be cleaned with "sprayed on solvent" AND "pressurized water", (from a hose, or pressure washer... sprayed from both sides).

Mel
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