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Old 06-05-2014, 06:19 AM   #43
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Great info

Got my radiator back today and they said it had a lot of internal deposits that cleaned up well so hopefully between the thorough internal and external clean and my new slobber tube catch system I have solved the problem. My trans cooler is a separate unit sandwiched between the CAC and radiator. The misting system sounds interesting, I actually looked at it previously but am glad to have a first hand review of effectiveness in case I need it. Thanks again to everyone, this site is a great resource, will post back after I get a chance to shake my coach down.
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:21 AM   #44
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I think the radiator mister is a good concept for those owners that are having a hot temperature problem when climbing grades.

However the Hayden system has gotten less than satisfactory reviews for quality and reliability. They probably have changed parts over the years and it's no longer the same quality as it was 10 years ago thanks to China.

Personally, I think tapping into a cold water supply line and first install a 12 VDC water solenoid valve then run a small black mister water supply line to the radiator location. Then all you need is to locate some of the patio type mister heads on the black water tube such that the mist will cover most of the radiator.

When needed, simply turn on a switch which activates the water solenoid valve allowing cold water to mist over the radiator. For this to work you would need to have your coach water pump activated.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 06-05-2014, 09:12 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
I think the radiator mister is a good concept for those owners that are having a hot temperature problem when climbing grades.

However the Hayden system has gotten less than satisfactory reviews for quality and reliability. They probably have changed parts over the years and it's no longer the same quality as it was 10 years ago thanks to China.

Personally, I think tapping into a cold water supply line and first install a 12 VDC water solenoid valve then run a small black mister water supply line to the radiator location. Then all you need is to locate some of the patio type mister heads on the black water tube such that the mist will cover most of the radiator.

When needed, simply turn on a switch which activates the water solenoid valve allowing cold water to mist over the radiator. For this to work you would need to have your coach water pump activated.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Richard - Good points.
When I installed mine I used a VDO windshield washer tank- 2 gal and pump. I mounted the tank back at the radiator, keeping in mind that my old beast has a side Radiator, I don'd use the dash air so I just plugged the pump into that 12 v line and hit the A/C switch on the dash.
2 gal with the nozzles I used sprays 2 gal in 20 min or so - plenty of time for the frequent hills I climb in Kentucky and Tennessee, Georgia.
Again I pull a lot of weight, but the system works and keeps it 10 to 15 deg cooler than without.
If I had a rear radiator the first thing I would do is install a Mister System !
Guy's I know that have 5.9's all run warm in the summer months, towing or not.
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Old 09-01-2014, 04:52 PM   #46
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1993 Georgia boy 34' with the 5.9, brand new radiator core, professional cleaned CAC, separate trans cooler. Fan blade is direct drive. Runs hot 220 on any long grade. Tried a mister system this weekend seemed to help a little. Am now thinking of mounting and additional radiator inline after main radiator.
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:41 PM   #47
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220 is not hot enough to worry about.
When you temp gets up to there- check your trans temp.
I thought my motor was running hot and I checked the trans temp and it was reading 190. My trans cooler is in the radiator.
The 180 degree thermostat starts opening at 180, it is 195-200 degrees before it fully opens. When you are pulling a grade and you think it is running 220- pull over and let the engine idle and take your Infared temp tool out as fast as you can and stick it on the output of the thermostat housing and see what it reads. You may not be running as hot as you think as gauges are notorious for reading wrong.
If you are puking antifreeze out the overflow-then you might be running hot.
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:53 PM   #48
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On the way to the Redmond FMCA rally last month I had overheating problems. Signed up and a couple Cummins people stopped and read the codes. Found nothing other than suggesting cleaning the radiator. They also said that the thermostat starts opening at 180 and isn't full open till 200 or so. So 190-200 isn't bad.
Cleaned the radiator at home and man were there a bunch of pine needles BETWEEN the main radiator and CAC. Got it cleaned and everything is back to normal. Even showing 179 on the freeway.
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:13 PM   #49
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Quote:
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220 is not hot enough to worry about.
When you temp gets up to there- check your trans temp.
I thought my motor was running hot and I checked the trans temp and it was reading 190. My trans cooler is in the radiator.
The 180 degree thermostat starts opening at 180, it is 195-200 degrees before it fully opens. When you are pulling a grade and you think it is running 220- pull over and let the engine idle and take your Infared temp tool out as fast as you can and stick it on the output of the thermostat housing and see what it reads. You may not be running as hot as you think as gauges are notorious for reading wrong.
If you are puking antifreeze out the overflow-then you might be running hot.
Our '02 ISC will start derating at 220 And the temp gauge, warning light and VMSpc show within 1 of each other. The warning light coming on will set a code and can be read later.
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:29 PM   #50
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Got my radiator back today and they said it had a lot of internal deposits that cleaned up well so hopefully between the thorough internal and external clean and my new slobber tube catch system I have solved the problem. My trans cooler is a separate unit sandwiched between the CAC and radiator. The misting system sounds interesting, I actually looked at it previously but am glad to have a first hand review of effectiveness in case I need it. Thanks again to everyone, this site is a great resource, will post back after I get a chance to shake my coach down.
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:47 PM   #51
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Still waiting

Unfortunately I have not had the MH out since the fixes. DW broke her leg so we lost most of the summer. Upside is I got a lot of interior updating done while she heals up. Will let you know in October when we head for Lake Powell
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:12 AM   #52
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Unfortunately I have not had the MH out since the fixes. DW broke her leg so we lost most of the summer. Upside is I got a lot of interior updating done while she heals up. Will let you know in October when we head for Lake Powell
Thanks for the update. Sorry to hear of your DW broken leg. That happened to me once as well. Keep us posted and I hope for a speedy recovery for your DW
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Old 10-01-2014, 07:26 AM   #53
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overheating update

Took the motorhome out for the first time since the radiator cleaned. No appreciable difference at all, still running at 220 while climbing with the heater on. W/O the heater temp would ease up a bit more. Trying to get a read with my infrared is tough as it cools quickly after stopping and it takes a few minutes to get the bed raised so I can get at the motor so don't get a real time reading. Am going to try a couple of flex a lite fans mounted on the outside of the radiator pulling air through, they are each rated at 2500CFM so it seems to me that it should help. Am going to wire them to a switch so I can manually engage them when needed. Stay tuned and will update in a couple of weeks.
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Old 10-02-2014, 06:40 AM   #54
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Heating

As others have posted here and at Forefurums almost all DP's in hot weather running uphill towing will see 220 degrees.

My m11 450 hp shows 210 at 88 degrees ambient up the grapevine floored.

On interstate 40 coming up from needles ca at 102 ambient it hit 220 floored.

No problem.

A Foreforum poster mentioned cummins recently posted 240 is ok on a 5.9
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Old 10-19-2014, 06:38 AM   #55
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Fans did not help

Installed 2 flex alite fans to help pull air through the radiator. Actually hurt more than it helped, the small amount of restriction caused by the fans themselves seemed to hurt the normal cooling. Did some more checking and found some air leaks out the sides of the shroud area which I sealed up with foam pipe insulation which seemed to help the flow as I checked with flagging tape in different areas. Am about ready to concede that as others have stated 220 should be okay for short periods although I still think there are some inherent design flaws in some diesel pushers. If I had room I think an auxiliary radiator mounted at the front of the coach would make a huge difference as evidenced by the 8 to 10 degree drop I get when using the heater to circulate more fluid. Thanks again for all the help and ideas.
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Old 10-25-2014, 12:19 PM   #56
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For all those who are heating up going up a grade make sure you are above 2000rpm which will take manual shifting at times
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