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Old 11-03-2014, 06:55 AM   #57
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Look for the obvious

Think I found the issue. After all I have tried I still was not happy with my temps. Went back to basics and basically started over. Took multiple readings with my IR gun while running in the driveway. Temp gauge showed 8 to 15 degree higher than my IR readings. Put in another new thermostat, sending unit and new VDO temp gauge with more precise graduations. Now temp gauge and IR readings within 5 degrees of each other. New thermostat seems to be working better also, can watch the opening and closing at 180 on my temp gauge. Did a short test run with a bit of climbing but not towing and could hardly get it above 180. A little early to say it is fixed but I think a faulty gauge/sending unit had me chasing my tail. Moral of the story is to look for the obvious and verify temp gauge readings with another means. Thanks again for all the help and suggestions. Will post the final analysis when we get back from Baja in March.
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Old 11-04-2014, 11:08 AM   #58
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Yep....like everything else....start with the simple first.
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Old 11-04-2014, 05:33 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rimrock View Post
Think I found the issue. After all I have tried I still was not happy with my temps. Went back to basics and basically started over. Took multiple readings with my IR gun while running in the driveway. Temp gauge showed 8 to 15 degree higher than my IR readings. Put in another new thermostat, sending unit and new VDO temp gauge with more precise graduations. Now temp gauge and IR readings within 5 degrees of each other. New thermostat seems to be working better also, can watch the opening and closing at 180 on my temp gauge. Did a short test run with a bit of climbing but not towing and could hardly get it above 180. A little early to say it is fixed but I think a faulty gauge/sending unit had me chasing my tail. Moral of the story is to look for the obvious and verify temp gauge readings with another means. Thanks again for all the help and suggestions. Will post the final analysis when we get back from Baja in March.
You did well. The radiator had issues as noted by your radiator shop and there was more than one problem. Congratulations on a job well done.
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:07 PM   #60
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Any recent posts? Wondering about using TSP instead of Simple Green as a solvent for radiator oil.
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:59 PM   #61
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Any recent posts? Wondering about using TSP instead of Simple Green as a solvent for radiator oil.
Probably would work fine along with most de-greasers....but the problem is you have to clean the other side of the radiator that picks up the oil and with a rear radiator that means going through the bedroom. Best bet.....make sure your slobber tube is working.
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Old 07-25-2016, 05:47 PM   #62
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Warm it up - soak it - rinse - works for me ! 3 times a year .


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Old 07-25-2016, 06:09 PM   #63
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I had heating problems on mine. Replaced thermostat. Change Coolant. Cleaned CAC and radiator. For mine it was so bad that I had to use Gunk. I did not want to but it was either that or replace everything. I also extended the blow tube beyond the radiator.

Now my idle temp is 182. My level road driving temp is 187. On my last trip I went up and down one 6%Grade and temp went up to 200. (As measured by my Silverleaf.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:32 PM   #64
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Thanks all. I think the slobber tube is working, the whole passengers side of the engine is covered in black oil. The driver side is clean. I plan on extending the tube or adding a can with 0000 steel wool. Ready to clean engine and radiator.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:33 PM   #65
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Mine was REALLY bad when I found out about this issue. The slobber tube had not been extended yet, and the front side of the CAC was clearly caked with hard oily dirt. I spent a LOT of time messing with different ways, and found Simple Green just about useless. It wasn't until I started using Gunk engine cleaner, and then straight diesel fuel, that I started making any progress.

Process that eventually worked best for me was to warm the engine on high idle, then shut it down. While warm, soak the CAC from inside the coach with diesel fuel in a garden sprayer, go outside and do the same to the radiator. Shoot the material straight in so it reaches as far in as possible. Shooting your solution at an angle doesn't penetrate to the interior near as well as a stream directed straight in.

Let it sit for 15 minutes or so, then rinse with a garden hose - applied from front and rear. From the front, while leaning over the top of the engine, then crawling underneath and doing what you can from down there. Start the engine, and blast some more from the rear.

Be very careful when using ANY pressure on the Rad/CAC (air, garden sprayer, or garden hose!). You want to be VERY sure you aren't bending ANY of the very easily bent/very soft fins! You can easily ruin a radiator if not careful here....

Repeat as many times as required - until the air blowing through will blow a small rag (sock?) straight out with the engine running, no matter where you place it on the back of the rad. The rag test will identify problem areas, as the rag will just hang limp where the blockages still exist.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:36 PM   #66
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What a great thread. This is the second time I've read every word because we just purchased 93 Vectra with the six speed Allison and the 5.9 Cummins. I bought it from the second owner who had owned it for fifteen years.

He told me that it would get up to 220 on grades out west but to watch the red light on the dash that would get brighter as it got hotter.

We handed him the cash and he gave us the title. We left Dallas for Turner Falls in Oklahoma, closest grade I knew about. High nineties ambient it pulled the crest a 60 mph in fifth and 220 degrees, cooled right back down going down the other side.

Previous owner said the radiator had been rodded a couple of years ago and he didn't think the trash issue in the stack was a problem. I did the back of my hand test checking air flow outside of the radiator with motor at idle. The flow was the same top to bottom, no difference. I would assume a trash blockage would mean the airflow would be less lower down the radiator.

We're pulling out for a three week run out west, best thing about me's Herceptin infusions are every three weeks. I was going to work on the heating issue but after reading this thread and similar ones on the Cummin's forums I'm going to concentrate on other stuff, tomorrow is changing out the 6 cf fridge for a 9 cf.
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Old 07-27-2016, 09:53 PM   #67
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Thanks for many good ideas. Now re. Slobber tube. Do you lengthin it to be below the radiator, direct it below and behind the rad or what?
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Old 07-28-2016, 05:22 AM   #68
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I had extended mine to behind the shroud but I found out that I also needed to take the end and point id down or the fan backdraft would still pick up the oil mist. So extend it back as far as you can and then at the end, point it downward.
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Old 07-28-2016, 05:29 AM   #69
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Regular simple green will not do the trick, you need to use the Simple Green extreme, its a powerful degreaser and its safe for plastics and aluminum. Regular will work if you are just trying to keep an already clean coolant package clean. I put this into a lawn sprayer, sneak the nozzle between my radiator and air charge cooler and soak it down once a year, rinse it with a garden hose and that's it. I had gunk build up from road grime and its all gone now. Heres a link tot he simple green extreme.
Simple Green 32 oz. Extreme Motorsports Cleaner and Degreaser-1901000113440 - The Home Depot
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Old 07-28-2016, 07:06 AM   #70
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This isn't the one I used, but you get the idea. I have a breather catch can about the size of a thermos installed out of the way by the primary fuel filter...just drain it once a year or so..no muss no fuss. I'd do this instead of just extending the slobber tube as the oil can still get slung around with all the wind turbulence.

FYI not endorsing the one below as I don't think it's near big enough but just to give you an idea...IF I can it I'll post the link..definitely a class 8 setup not a "car" setup.

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perfo.../dp/B003C0173E
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