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Old 08-24-2016, 12:15 AM   #85
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last month climbing passes on I 70 in Colorado I hit 226 3 times and did have a leaking cap. Replaced with cap made in China from napa. It still burped some out overflow at 221, on recent trip climbing, I don't have a overflow tank so it runs down mud flap.
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Old 08-24-2016, 01:23 PM   #86
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Would it be posible for pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by rimrock View Post
I agree that there is no way to get any kind of brush on the engine side of my cooling stack. When I first soaked and cleaned it last year after buying I did not see the large amounts of crud others have described. After removing the radiator in preparation for a good professional cleaning I was able to clean both sides of the CAC and trans cooler much more effectively but it was a 4 hr job getting the radiator out so don't want that as a yearly chore. Looking down the inside of the radiator with a flashlight there seems to be a lot of deposits built up on the internal cooling tubes. Am curious to find out what the radiator shop has to say after I drop it off tomorrow. Thanks again for this forum and all of the feedback. Will let you know when I have it back together and tested. BTW I have modified the slobber tube using a peanut butter jar as described on here so hopefully after all this I will only need a yearly external rinse.
When you get this all done sure would like to see it installed and of this "modified the slobber tube using a peanut butter jar". Sure would help to understand better.
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Old 08-24-2016, 11:06 PM   #87
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Seriously, you need to change your oil also. I talked to a Mobil One synthetic oil engineer last year. He said Mobil One, a synthetic oil can handle 250 deg for 30 minutes and 270 deg for only 2 to 3 minutes before breaking down.

If your water pegged at 250 deg then your oil was hotter and I doubt you're running synthetic oil.

On the rig I called him about the temps on, I now also have an oil temp gauge and it runs hotter than the water temp.

Bill
One of the interesting things about this series of misadventures is the previous owner told me that a red light would first flicker and then go solid when the motor got hot. Sometimes the red light came on when the temps were in the 230 range and other times it didn't come on when the temps were in the 240 range. That tells me the two sensors are located at different locations and reflect different systems.

There will be an oil change in the next week for both the motor and the generator just because.

We'll know more about in a week or so.
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:47 AM   #88
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250 is WWWAAAAAYYYY to hot. Not a little hot, 30 degrees too hot. As others have said, irreperable damage may have been done if your gauge is accurate. I would NOT hire a mechanic to install a water injection system. Water injection is a band aid to buy you a few degrees. Something is wrong. Find out what is wrong. Your engine should not be running anywhere near that hot with a load on it, and may need a new radiator or ....?

Don't waste your money putting band aids on this giant open wound. Address the issue at hand.

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We pulled out of the campground and within 3 miles it was hot, again. We probably got about seven miles with me pulling over and letting it cool off for awhile and then it get hot again, talking 240 to 250.

Finally I sat down and went over everything that had happened. The big thing was the overflow tank contents hadn't moved and were hot but not hot enough to burn. So I let it cool down and then removed the cap. We added about two and a half gallons of water to the radiator and then hit the road again. All kinds of traffic, speeds up to seventy, and she sat there at 180 like it was the right thing to do.

We made it to the infusion appointment just five minutes late. One of the good things is I have a line on a local that is a retired diesel mechanic that said he would work on the 5.9 for me if I cleared the bed etc for access. That will happen next week or so. Plans are a water injection system into the radiator shroud to cool off the air going into the radiator when overheating begins. There are some other things but we will see what time and the budget allows.
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Old 08-25-2016, 11:19 AM   #89
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My hot light comes on at about 215. I don't have overheating problems now. When I did I pulled off and let it cool. A couple of years ago it took a long time to get back from Branson but I insisted on not damaging my engine or tranny. Nice to be retired and not have to rush.
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Old 08-28-2016, 10:28 AM   #90
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I picked up a couple of fluid test kits Friday at a local diesel shop that works on my work truck. What these kits are for pulling samples of motor fluids and they are sent to San Antonio for analysis. I bought two, less than forty dollars for the pair, one for antifreeze and the other for oil. They come with labels and and a container. I will have the results within a week and will know if some really bad stuff happened during the misadventures.

I put about twenty more miles on the MH doing tank dump and parking it at the adopted kid's place. She sat on 180 degrees like it was painted on the dial.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:22 PM   #91
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We haven't got the analysis' back yet. But I'm getting the ducks lined up like the news will be good. I discovered the exhaust manifold is cracked but I can fix it. It will be a good excuse to have it off the motor when I plumb it for the pyrometer.
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:37 PM   #92
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Great news on my heating problem...
I have used Gunk on the inter cooler/radiator group. Washed out a lot of oil/dirt combo. A LOT (5-10 pounds). Spent time cleaning the left side of the engine and frame where the slobber tube left its slobber.
Just took on 300 milt trip, 75mph, several nice hills and pushed it on the hills.
No heating problems. Did learn that the air filter is in need of replacement and working on that,
Thanks to all for comments and help. Greatly appreciated.
Thanks again.
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Old 10-06-2016, 10:24 PM   #93
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A little update on the overheating issue with the 93 5.9 pusher.

1. We just did a 2665 mile trip and figured out that we needed to top off the radiator every morning. We would lose almost a gallon of antifreeze on a four hundred mile day. With the topping off of the radiator every morning there was no overheating issue. I haven't figured out where its is leaking, hose, radiator, clamp, etc. But it is in the radiator area, not a water pump etc and it is losing it, not using it.

2. Yesterday the report came back from Holt Cat on the antifreeze, basically low on glycol. That is understandable because I had been topping off the radiator with just water that trip. This trip I used 50/50 when topping off the radiator.

3. The oil analysis hasn't got back yet from Holt Cat. But I have the new exhaust manifold at the machine shop for drilling and tapping for the EGT probe. The repair will be done next week. While I'm in there we will find and fix whatever is causing the antifreeze issue.
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:34 AM   #94
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[QUOTE=Wroughtnharv;3284655]A little update on the overheating issue with the 93 5.9 pusher.

1. We would lose almost a gallon of antifreeze on a four hundred mile day. With the topping off of the radiator every morning there was no overheating issue. I haven't figured out where its is leaking, hose, radiator, clamp, etc. But it is in the radiator area, not a water pump etc and it is losing it, not using it.

2. Yesterday the report came back from Holt Cat on the antifreeze, basically low on glycol. That is understandable because I had been topping off the radiator with just water that trip. This trip I used 50/50 when topping off the radiator.

On item 1. you could have a leak in the radiator when it is hot and it evaporates not leaving a trace and not leaking when cooling. a pressure test would identify that and you can borrow (with a deposit) a pressure testing kit from advance auto.
One item 2. You should have been using at least distilled water for replenishment.
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Old 10-07-2016, 08:56 AM   #95
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coolant overflow tank

Just a thought on your coolant loss. Had a similar loss this summer. Found that my coolant overflow reservoir had a small leak in the bottom of the plastic bottle. This was caused by melting as it sits directly over the pipe feeding the turbo. It would only leak after heating up when the plastic softened then seal back up after cooling. Good luck !
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Old 10-07-2016, 08:58 AM   #96
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My bet would be regarding something to do with the rad. cap, the recovery tank, or the line between the tank and the rad. The coolant is expanding as it warms, and flowing out the top of the rad. - but not being sucked back in as it cools.

Most recovery tanks are transparent, allowing this process to be monitored. Tank coolant should start out in the morning with an inch or so in it (high enough to cover the inlet tube) , expand to nearly full as the engine warms up, and disappear down to the inch or so as the engine cools.
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Old 10-07-2016, 09:22 AM   #97
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i have a 2005 36 ft itasca meridian freightliner chassis, 350 cat engine. before my trip to fmca at perry ga this spring, before leaving, i serviced my chassis. all filters, the works. i do this every spring.
last fall i had cleaned my rear radiator. lots of dirt washed out. i flushed the cooling system, and changed antifreeze.
anyway, i left in the morning. it was cool for arizona. by the time i got half way to flagstaff, the engine started to overheat. i watch my gauges closely. old habit. when it hit 210. i know something wasnt right. it kept climbing, so i pulled over, and started checking.
the only thing i found wrong, was that i had left the cap off the oil dip stick and fill tube. i reinstalled that, and with the engine cooled down, went on my way. no more overheating. even on hills.
i didnt know an open oil fill tube would cause overheating. now i do. may be nothing, but that cured my problem
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Old 10-24-2016, 11:11 PM   #98
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The radiator is out and at Bill's Radiator in Plano Texas. The leak was at the neck and it has been an issue for some time as you can see by the residue on the tank.

The radiator has been worked on a couple of times and Gary said he would rod it out for me for about $125.00. But he had little confidence in that being a good solution with all of the blocked off tubes and other previous repairs. We agreed on a new core for $1,000 to $1,100.00 including cleaning and testing the CAC unit. I didn't even look for a new replacement because it was such a pain in the butt to get it out and going back with something even a little different wasn't interesting at all.

The elephant in the engine bay was I couldn't comfortably break the hose couplings on the trans cooler. That complicated getting the unit out in one piece, had to remove the radiator and then the CAC. Even as a young man I understood that automotive engineers must all have mother in laws that were mechanics. After this adventure I'm positive the mother in laws were mean to their sons in laws.

The way I explained it to Gary was Jane (motorcoach) had issues. I wanted the overheating issue being a non-issue after we're done with this part of her rehab.

There was some trash in between the trans cooler/CAC/radiator. Not much but what puzzled me was this clear plastic sheeting that was most of it. Then when I got back to the coach I saw the clear plastic was part of the insulation material in the motor compartment.
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