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Old 10-16-2015, 08:12 AM   #1
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DIY oil & filter change on Class A DP

I have changed the oil & filter on my cars often but have never attempted it on my motorhome. Is it as straight forward on a DP as it is on my gas driven car? Is the process in anyway?
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Old 10-16-2015, 08:17 AM   #2
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Yes its pretty simple if you don't mind crawling under the coach. I would make sure you have a drain pan big enough (ie 4 gals or more) to hold all the oil. To make it even easier the next time get one of those fumoto drain plugs that allows you to turn the handle and it will drain without getting your hands messy. If your handy with tools then its no problem
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Old 10-16-2015, 08:34 AM   #3
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I recommend that you get your new oil filter in your hands and be sure you have an oil filter removal tool that will fit the filter. You will find that diesel filters are larger in diameter than a gas engine and they are in tight places. My wrench uses a 1/2" drive ratchet/extension to operate it.

Be sure to fill your new filter with oil before you install it. Mine hold about 3 quarts of oil. Also be sure the oil is up to operating temperature before draining.

My ISL has a oring on the drain plug that I usually replace with new when changing oil.
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:24 AM   #4
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I have done all but 1 oil change on my rig.

Pretty simple, I bought a good strap wrench from the Peterbilt shop located near me which makes it easier to get the filter off.

I use a 5 gallon bucket to catch the oil, I put a plastic bag in it to make it easier to contain.

My oil filter must be prefilled with clean oil prior to installation, no big deal but you have to be careful when installing. I wait until a good sale on Valvoline Blue Diesel Oil goes on sale at Autozone and then stock up, get it for $13/gallon.

I also change both fuel filters when I do the oil change and a complete grease job front to back. While under the rig I do a good visual inspection of the frame and axles and any welds that may have a lot of weight transfer and stress.

I save maybe $100 doing this all myself but at least I know it is done correctly and gives me a piece of mind.
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:31 AM   #5
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I was almost fearful of doing my 1st diesel oil change. I had pans, buckets, strap wrenches, rachets, rags, and more ready. Other than there is 10 times the amount of oil it was actually easier. My prior V10's oil change was a messy job due to the plug exactly above the axle. Only 3 drops spilled this time. Lots more room to work underneath.
Saved over a hundred dollars in labor, and I have all the tools now.
Best part is changes are 10-20k miles, not 3-5k. I do changes at my relative's homes.
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:42 AM   #6
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x2 on the 5 gallon pail. Hadn't considered the plastic (trash bag) liner idea though. Thank you!

Oil and filter change is pretty straight forward. There are some tricks though. That oil filter is pretty heavy when full. Not used to that, I tried "one handing" it the first time. Not ready for that weight, that was another of those lessons I won't soon forget! The resulting mess embedded that lesson firmly! To make it easier to handle while removing it, just punch a hole in it with a screw driver or ice pick, and let it drain prior to changing. I found a sturdy strap type wrench works pretty good as it will be necessary for the fuel filters as well.

I think a good overall inspection, from front to rear, is a pretty valuable part of the oil change as well. Just like a careful grease job is.
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Old 10-16-2015, 12:18 PM   #7
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The part that is difficult for me is adding the 19 quarts of oil. The fill is a few inches back behind the rear cap so I use a long funnel. The long funnel has a smallish hole and the angle is not steep so it takes a while to add the oil. Not a major item but kind of get tired holding the container of oil up that high.
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Old 10-16-2015, 12:29 PM   #8
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DIY oil & filter change on Class A DP

Rural King has a nice heavy 13 gal pvc feed bucket that works perfect .. Lower than a 5 gal bucket.. $16.99

Just for your information
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Old 10-16-2015, 12:43 PM   #9
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Even if I could do it, I wouldn't. Speedco, does mine with both fuel filters and lube for $220, including tax. It is a once a year thing. I do service the Genny myself though. Its very easy to get to.
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Old 10-16-2015, 12:58 PM   #10
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The Fumoto valve is the hot ticket. I have one for my Cat that holds ~34 qts but have yet to install it. I have one on my Ram CTD and with only 12 qts it takes awhile to drain the oil so I can only imagine how long it will take to drain 34 qts but I can't imagine trying to move a container with that much oil. The fumoto really help eliminate any mess.
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:44 PM   #11
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Sometimes the biggest issue is dealing with the oil. I did every oil change on my previous DP, by using the drain plug(s). I decided I wanted the Fumoto on my new coach. I installed the Fumoto valve before changing oil the first time. I had the valve ready to go, removed the drain plug and quickly installed the Fumoto. I spilled less than a pint.

I take my oil to the local Auto Zone for recycling. Using a 5 gallon gas can makes it REALLY simple. I drain directly into the 5 gallon can with the Fumoto. So much easier when not messing with a drain.

As you get close to doing your oil change, save any big chunks of cardboard you get from a delivery. A nice piece of 3' x 3' cardboard works great as a mat and then just toss it.

I agree, that as you get older, this gets tough. I don't have a Speedco near me, but they sound like a good deal at a good price. I do my own oil changes because I'm cheap, but my real motivation is that it lets me check the drivetrain and chassis once a year, something Speedco is not going to do, unless a part is obviously hanging off.
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Old 10-16-2015, 08:19 PM   #12
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I second the fumoto valve. I got the one with the nipple to attach a hose to the valve. I saved one gallon jugs from that last change and drain into the old jugs. My C7 oil filter is vertical and is much easier to change than my a Jeep Wrangler filter that leaks all oil out before it comes off.
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Old 10-17-2015, 10:04 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ciderdog View Post
The part that is difficult for me is adding the 19 quarts of oil. The fill is a few inches back behind the rear cap so I use a long funnel. The long funnel has a smallish hole and the angle is not steep so it takes a while to add the oil. Not a major item but kind of get tired holding the container of oil up that high.
Ours is the same way. Barely adequate for adding 1 qt. at a time. For oil changes, I go inside and remove a breather cap/slobber tube adapter (Cat 3126). 1 bolt gives me access to a large tube leading directly to the crank case. Will take oil from a gallon jug as fast as you can pour it. A funnel keeps the process tidy.

Lazy man can find an easy way to do everything.
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Old 10-17-2015, 11:05 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
Ours is the same way. Barely adequate for adding 1 qt. at a time. For oil changes, I go inside and remove a breather cap/slobber tube adapter (Cat 3126). 1 bolt gives me access to a large tube leading directly to the crank case. Will take oil from a gallon jug as fast as you can pour it. A funnel keeps the process tidy.

Lazy man can find an easy way to do everything.

Maybe use a step ladder to elevate the oil or the oil holder?
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