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Old 02-10-2012, 08:06 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Dacotah View Post
AHICKS, I realize the discussion is about removing and installing fogged windows; I thought it might be helpful to try my solution without removing them. Yes, my solution only works if the windows are sliders; otherwise you need to remove the window to drill the holes. As far as breaking the factory seal, you can use a sharp fish filet knife to cut it and I have done that on other windows. Again, I am not trying to steal this informative thread, just contribute to it. DACOTAH
Yup, sorry to come across incorrectly. My point was to clarify what you were doing for others, not try to tell you that you were off topic.

I'm familiar with the process you used. I actually did the diamond drill bit thing to one of the living room picture windows here at the S&B not too long ago (that's already been replaced once before for the same problem!). About the same plan you describe, but you use a diamond bit to drill directly into the glass. Once you have the holes in the top and bottom, any moisture present will take care of itself! Do not try this on your MH window as it's guaranteed to shatter!

I have 2 window panes in our coach I need to do something with soon. Right now they just fog on occasion. As luck would have it, both are fixed sections, and directly in my line of sight when using the rear view mirrors. Plan as of the moment is to remove one, cover it with plastic, then vent it like you did, through the spacer. From there I'll see if I can get it to clear itself like the living room window did, then seal it. If I did put any solution in there, I might be tempted to try Windex as well.
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Old 02-11-2012, 07:20 AM   #16
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Fogged windows

for anyone who tries my solution, be sure and use the Windex product that is made to spray on patio doors; it is designed to be applied with a garden hose sprayer and is self drying. I mixed it 50% with water and put it in a 1 gallon pump sprayer so there would be enough pressure to fill the window from the bottom, pushing the air out the open top hole. I made an adapter for the shop vac to step the size of the tubing down so it would fit in the hole drilled in the spacer. On one of my windows, I did not drill the bottom hole at the very bottom of the window, so I used the leveling jacks to raise up the front of the coach so the solution would drain to the hole. It is better to drill the bottom hole as close to the bottom as possible. Hope this helps. DACOTAH
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Old 02-11-2012, 12:59 PM   #17
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Getting It Out, Made Easy... Well, Easier

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Those can certainly be difficult to remove without messing up the coach siding! Others though, might just use a foam gasket like the OP mentioned. Those will usually need a little persuasion, but are not difficult to remove at all. FWIW
A 2" plastic putty knife and a heat gun does the trick, takes less than five minutes. Wear gloves, concentrate the heat stream on the frame, not the siding.

Once the bottom and one side are loose, the rest is a breeze. Save the top for last, score caulking with the tip of the blade, gently lever your window outward.

BTW, I love the idea of cleaning the windows on the coach, found that I retained some moisture and water spots inside mine. Plus, the seal is still broken, when you're done, by definition. Still, this might be a great method, since you could renew them every so often, it need be.
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Old 02-11-2012, 07:49 PM   #18
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Thanks for posting this! I have a few windows up front which lessen the vision at night and even more when it's rainy. I was preparing myself for a giant hassle of replacing them but now I have another option.
You never know what you're going to learn on this site....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dacotah View Post
for anyone who tries my solution, be sure and use the Windex product that is made to spray on patio doors; it is designed to be applied with a garden hose sprayer and is self drying. I mixed it 50% with water and put it in a 1 gallon pump sprayer so there would be enough pressure to fill the window from the bottom, pushing the air out the open top hole. I made an adapter for the shop vac to step the size of the tubing down so it would fit in the hole drilled in the spacer. On one of my windows, I did not drill the bottom hole at the very bottom of the window, so I used the leveling jacks to raise up the front of the coach so the solution would drain to the hole. It is better to drill the bottom hole as close to the bottom as possible. Hope this helps. DACOTAH
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:42 PM   #19
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I believe Dave Root RV Glass out of Bend Oregon sells a "DIY Kit" for repairing the SE Gi window problem. Google his website.
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:43 AM   #20
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RV Window Replacement

Reference to your DIY Window Replacement, I have removed, repaired and replaced two windows in my 2001 Monaco Dynasty that were the thermo-pane type that had began to fog up on the inside.
It is really a pretty easy task and is a lot easier with two people during the final stage of actual window removal after all screws have been removed.

I have used the following procedure once the interior window treatment or valances have been removed to gain easy access to the window frame screws:
1. Loosen, but don’t remove, all the screws in the widow trim molding that secures the window to the MH.
2. Use a very sharp & thin and flexible bladed exacto type knife with extendable blade, (the type that can be purchased at any hardware store). Carefully slice through the existing caulk around the window trying to hold the thin blade as close to the MH (motor home) exterior wall as possible. The closer you can hold the blade to the MH, the less clean-up work will have to be done in removing excess caulk.
3. Once the window assembly has been successfully separated from the wall of the MH then I would suggest having someone stand on a ladder on the outside of the MH and secure the window while all the screws are removed from the inside window trim molding.
4. I purchased a couple of the window suction cups with handles ( Wood’s Power Grip – 8” diameter suction cup that can be found at WWW.powrgrip.com). These do an excellent job of providing a method of hanging onto and handling the window during removal or installation.
5. After the window is removed, clean all surfaces of the MH exterior wall and window frame.
5. Generally the window assembly is supported by some shims that will allow a person to replace the window back in the exact location it was removed. But to be sure, make a few marks on the MH wall to indicate the precise location to reinstall the window assembly.
6. I have had both of my windows repaired by a professional company who specializes in this process of rebuilding thermopane windows. They are, Suncoast Designers, Inc at WWW.Suncoastdesigners.com in Hudson, FL at 727-868-2773.
7. Once the window frame is clean and ready to install, I secure dense foam weatherstripping (3/8 w x 3/16” thick) to the flange of the window frame seal against the MH exterior wall. Some folks claim this step is not necessary, but I elect to do it to provide a cushion and compensate for any uneven surfaces on the MH exterior wall or window frame flange.
8. Using the Suction cup holders, I have someone hold the window in its proper position in the cut-out opening and then I go into the MH and position the window trim molding so I can start all the screws. Once all screws are started, and you are satisfied of the windows final position, I go around the window frame in a sequence fashion to snug up all the screws, like torqueing a series of wheel lug nuts. Then I then final tighten all screws, trying to get them to be in similar, equal torque.
9. As a final step, I apply a bead of silicon caulk around the window frame flange so as to provide a quality, weatherproof seal between the window flange and the wall of the MH to assure there will be no moisture leaking into the MH from around the window frame.

Hope this helps your efforts, and Good Luck

Yukon Jack
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