Community Forums

mccsix · 02-08-2012, 05:34 PM

Anyone change out their fogged up side windows themselves? I'm wondering just how difficult it can be.
I've got the replacement windows in hand, they were installed with gaskets, not caulk tape, so the clean up prep should be easy.
Any info or tips are appreciated.

flaresadog · 02-08-2012, 08:32 PM

I'm anxious to see your replies. I have the same window problem and was going to order replacements and DIY replace. Where did you get your replacements from? Bob

RVNeophytes2 · 02-08-2012, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mccsix

Anyone change out their fogged up side windows themselves? I'm wondering just how difficult it can be.
I've got the replacement windows in hand, they were installed with gaskets, not caulk tape, so the clean up prep should be easy.
Any info or tips are appreciated.

I just plugged in my second window unit, remanufactured in my own shop, double-sealed and filled with Argon.

There were some surprises: the factory had used a 3/8" hollow D weatherstrip. I used a 1/2 closed-cell foam quarter-round for my big bedroom window, and a 3/8" ribbed 1/8" thick foam tape for my passenger seat window. Both are battleship tight, the quarter-round more so because the weatherstripping was laid in a thick bed of glazing seal. The only cautions I have: use a caulk remover and denatured alcohol to clean the leftover caulk on the outside of your coach, progressing tighten the trim ring once your centering is complete. Using a Dewalt 16V screwdriver, I set the torque on 16 using a square tip for the final tightening. Tomorrow, I'll mask 1/4" around the frame and lay in a bead of silicone caulk.

Really, the toughest part is getting the centering correct. Paint stirrers or popsicle sticks can help achieve the perfect position; then, snug the top portion of the trim ring before removing the shims.

Two down, four to go!! Cost is about $25-30 per window. But, a bunch of labor...

mccsix · 02-09-2012, 07:28 AM

My coach is under warranty so the windows came from the manuf 's sub. These suckers are a lot heavier than I thought, they should have used helium in between.

ahicks · 02-09-2012, 08:05 AM

Go for it, not that big a deal. You will need a helper to hold the window in place while you go inside to get the flange in place and start a few screws. Then just try to draw the screws down evenly. Get them all just started, then go back around a couple of times drawing them down a little at a time. I would seal with caulk when done, but that may be just me/old school.

Dacotah · 02-09-2012, 12:16 PM

Last year I tried a DIY fix on my drivers window. I drilled two 1/8 " holes in the side of the windows; one at the top and one at the bottom, then I enlarged the holes to 1/4", which is the gap between the two panes of glass. I injected windex self drying cleaner into the bottom hole until it came out the top hole, then drained the window and using my shop vac, sucked out all residue until the window was dry and clear. I sealed the two holes and now one year later, it is still clear. You might give this a try, it doesn't cost anything for this simple fix. We live in South Florida with high humidity so I was surprised it worked so well. DACOTAH

Steve N Sal · 02-09-2012, 12:25 PM

I tried on our previous coach but just couldn't get the window to come out after removing the trim. Finally took it to the dealer and had it done. It was well worth it in the end. They replaced two windows total.

ahicks · 02-09-2012, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dacotah

Last year I tried a DIY fix on my drivers window. I drilled two 1/8 " holes in the side of the windows; one at the top and one at the bottom, then I enlarged the holes to 1/4", which is the gap between the two panes of glass. I injected windex self drying cleaner into the bottom hole until it came out the top hole, then drained the window and using my shop vac, sucked out all residue until the window was dry and clear. I sealed the two holes and now one year later, it is still clear. You might give this a try, it doesn't cost anything for this simple fix. We live in South Florida with high humidity so I was surprised it worked so well. DACOTAH

Just for clarity, this is either with the window pane removed from the frame, or possibly the sliding section?

Maybe I misunderstood the question, but he's installing/replacing an entire window assembly, I thought?

Regarding removing the old window (assembly) there are various installation methods - including those that use some stuff that's pretty determined to stick to the side of the coach. Those can certainly be difficult to remove without messing up the coach siding! Others though, might just use a foam gasket like the OP mentioned. Those will usually need a little persuasion, but are not difficult to remove at all. FWIW

**JohnRR** · 02-09-2012, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mccsix

Any info or tips are appreciated.

After many years of experience with less than co operative phillips head screws like what came as OEM I bought the square drive head screws and painted them black. The square drive just seems to work so much better and allow for applying more torque when using a power tool with them.

The rest was a piece of cake with an extra set of hands when taking the frame out

trampsrv · 02-09-2012, 07:27 PM

see if this helps RV Window Installation Guide

EngineerMike · 02-09-2012, 07:48 PM

Neophytes has an excellent description of the process. I would add the following:
1) 91% rubbing alcohol made a great solvent for the non-sag caulk used by my OEM to install windows (which caulk sagged & leaked). Still takes plenty of elbow grease
2) get one or two suction cups from Harbor Freight or other suppliers for easier window handling.
3) for smaller windows (size defined by strength of the handler, low strength = smaller), take out the old window & clean the surfaces, take new assembly into the rig & (using suction cups on inside surface for safer handling) turn it to an angle to maneuver it outside the coach thru the open hole, right the window frame & pull it back against the coach siding, hold w/one hand, apply the retaining ring inside & get a couple screws well started, adjust for centering, install & tighten all screws. This makes smaller windows a one person job.

Dacotah · 02-10-2012, 08:03 AM

AHICKS, I realize the discussion is about removing and installing fogged windows; I thought it might be helpful to try my solution without removing them. Yes, my solution only works if the windows are sliders; otherwise you need to remove the window to drill the holes. As far as breaking the factory seal, you can use a sharp fish filet knife to cut it and I have done that on other windows. Again, I am not trying to steal this informative thread, just contribute to it. DACOTAH

mccsix · 02-10-2012, 09:59 AM

Thanks everyone for all the help. The manuf doesn't want the windows back after I change them out so I think I'll experiment on them with Dacotah's home made remedy...nothing to lose. Also be looking for the sq headed screws (I see a lot of them @ Wally world)

ahicks · 02-10-2012, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dacotah

AHICKS, I realize the discussion is about removing and installing fogged windows; I thought it might be helpful to try my solution without removing them. Yes, my solution only works if the windows are sliders; otherwise you need to remove the window to drill the holes. As far as breaking the factory seal, you can use a sharp fish filet knife to cut it and I have done that on other windows. Again, I am not trying to steal this informative thread, just contribute to it. DACOTAH

Yup, sorry to come across incorrectly. My point was to clarify what you were doing for others, not try to tell you that you were off topic.

I'm familiar with the process you used. I actually did the diamond drill bit thing to one of the living room picture windows here at the S&B not too long ago (that's already been replaced once before for the same problem!). About the same plan you describe, but you use a diamond bit to drill directly into the glass. Once you have the holes in the top and bottom, any moisture present will take care of itself! Do not try this on your MH window as it's guaranteed to shatter!

I have 2 window panes in our coach I need to do something with soon. Right now they just fog on occasion. As luck would have it, both are fixed sections, and directly in my line of sight when using the rear view mirrors. Plan as of the moment is to remove one, cover it with plastic, then vent it like you did, through the spacer. From there I'll see if I can get it to clear itself like the living room window did, then seal it. If I did put any solution in there, I might be tempted to try Windex as well.