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Old 01-23-2016, 10:23 AM   #15
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As mentioned above the 2 funny looking ones are "magna-latch" relays and can drive you crazy until you realize that.

Exposed to them way back in radio days and they are great.

Some use a set and reset wire while others may reverse polarity for action.

Before doing anything do some testing.

Also try this FIRST.
Be sure both batteries are charged then hit the disconnect switch while someone listens for action.

If nothing have your helper hold the boost switch and try again.

We learned this trick while troubleshooting a 93 Southwind that would intermittently drop fully dead after camping.

The owner would turn chassis off and when preparing to leave they unplugged shore and then could not get chassis battery to connect or cabin either.

Plug shore back in then able to connect while in panic mode.

Discovered control system is powered by CABIN batteries and their pair of 6 volt batteries had been boiled dry by overvoltage converter.

Pushing boost connects chassis and cabin providing power then controls work.

Problem is boost switch on dash and battery switch above side door.

Next check the fuses on the board there to the left.

Do not start experimenting...but a small wire can be used to connect the HUGE wires of the selenoid as that is what they do.

Using small wire provides some protection as it can fuse.
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Old 01-23-2016, 01:46 PM   #16
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Myron. That is a great interactive schematic.

I think the only thing it lacks for my rig is the 300A Class T fuses between the Inverter/charger and the House battery
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:43 AM   #17
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I've been troubleshooting complex electronc systems for over 30 years now. Sometimes it's easy to get discouraged when nothing seems to work. When this happens to me I decide to see something work. For this it might mean taking a good battery and getting the voltage to the 12 volt panel and turning on the lights. Something simple like that.

So, pick one thing that you would like to see work and we can help. Example, Starting engine, starting generator, having the lights, etc. . Slowly as you see little parts of the system work you'll be able to fix the one or two things that is keeping it all from working. Don't give up.
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Old 01-24-2016, 02:21 PM   #18
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coolkx
The lower black/gray solenoid is for the chassis, says on the label COACH CHASSIS, it is has to be closed to power the chassis and start the enigine. You can tell by the large cables on each side. The upper black/gray is for the house 12V power. It needs to be closed to supply power to every thing in the house that requires 12V+ to operate. Both those solenoids are latching solenoids they stay closed or open without having power supplied to the small terminals all the time. To energize the house or chassis the rocker switch for either one is pushed and 12V+ is supplied to one of the small terminals and the other small terminal is grounded to close the contacts. To kill the power the switch is pushed again but in the opposite direction 12V+ is supplied to the opposite terminal then before and the other terminal is grounded. You should hear the clunk each time the switch is pushed. The only time 12V+ is supplied the either terminal is when the switch is pushed. The other two shiny metal solenoids are non latching and have to have 12V+ supplied to one of the small terminals to keep the contact closed. The other small terminal is always grounded, they do not switch polarity as the latching solenoids do. While they look like the old Ford starter solenoids they are not. They must be CONTINUOUS DUTY a starter relay is not continuous duty and will burn out if used for a continuous duty application.
This was such a wealth of information. Electrical issues are so frustrating. What's funny is that several weeks ago I must have connected things sufficiently to actually start the thing. Now, I have no idea what I'm doing. I've researched principles of electricity and other resources, but something about this has just dumbfounded me. I sense I will probably just have to call someone to come out and remedy it.
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Old 01-24-2016, 02:26 PM   #19
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So if I am attempting to jump the chassis solenoid, where do I connect the leads? It's quite distracting that the larger gauge wires connected to the outside of the solenoid are both Red, how am I to discern which is positive or negative? Do I connect the leads to the two smaller nuts in the center? If so, which is positive, the white wire or the other? Provided I have power to this, I don't think I will be able to start it without doing something with the ignition relay, is this fair? I think the last time I was successful with this, I had to jump the ignition relay as well.

I think it may be time to get my go pro out there and just point and let you all watch me electrocute myself, hahaha
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Old 01-24-2016, 02:28 PM   #20
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And I am highly conscious that this is arguably one of the most ignorant methods to embark on an electrical project. I am exposing my impatience here by not empirically approaching this with more resources. I think having it work twice before excites me and so I am trying to replicate that success.
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Old 01-24-2016, 02:52 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by coolkx View Post
So if I am attempting to jump the chassis solenoid, where do I connect the leads? It's quite distracting that the larger gauge wires connected to the outside of the solenoid are both Red, how am I to discern which is positive or negative? Do I connect the leads to the two smaller nuts in the center? If so, which is positive, the white wire or the other? Provided I have power to this, I don't think I will be able to start it without doing something with the ignition relay, is this fair? I think the last time I was successful with this, I had to jump the ignition relay as well.

I think it may be time to get my go pro out there and just point and let you all watch me electrocute myself, hahaha
the heavy gauge red wires are both positive wires,,, The internal part of the solenoids either break that connection or connect it.
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Old 01-24-2016, 02:59 PM   #22
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not sure if this will help you or not

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Old 01-24-2016, 03:05 PM   #23
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Old 01-24-2016, 03:46 PM   #24
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Step 1:
https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...d6&action=view

Buy an inexpensive voltmeter and learn how to make basic DC voltage measurements. Get confident with it. This should take you about 30 minutes.

2: With the meter on DC, place the black probe on a metal frame or housing of something. Now probe the large terminals on the solenoids. If you do NOT get a reading then the negative probe has not found a good ground. Sometimes the mounting bolts of the solenoids work well. Other times it can be a real pain. I have run my own long wires to a good ground. If you have to drill a small hole in metal somewhere and put a screw into it and wrap the end of some scrap wire around it then make it so captain. You absolutely must have a proper ground or you will just chase your tail.

3. With a good ground your positive probe will tell you everything you need to know. Go to each solenoid and measure all four posts. Write these down. Do not expect to remember them for fifteen minutes with confidence. If some component changes state you will have a reference written down.

Once again. Write the measurements down. Better yet, print a picture of the component and write on those. You then have a reference for future use.

4. Here is what you should expect to see.
12 volts or more on one side of each of the solenoids. Maybe on both sides. In any case it is not important at this stage.
You may see 12 volts on some of the small terminals. If you do, the other small terminal should be 0 volts. If not, don't worry about it yet.
If you do see 12 volts on one of the small terminals and 0 on the other small one then you should see whatever voltage is showing on one of the large terminals compared to the other large terminal. This means the solenoid is energized and doing what it is supposed to do.

5. After you get those measurement and are comfortable taking them, experiment with things like turning your ignition switch on and off.

Unplug from shoerline and take the same measurement.

Prop your emergency start button and take the measurements again. Do this with the key on and off.

At this point you will have a wealth of information and finding out how your rv functions will be a breeze.
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Old 01-24-2016, 04:30 PM   #25
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Are you trying to start the engine?
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:18 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolkx View Post
So if I am attempting to jump the chassis solenoid, where do I connect the leads? It's quite distracting that the larger gauge wires connected to the outside of the solenoid are both Red, how am I to discern which is positive or negative? Do I connect the leads to the two smaller nuts in the center? If so, which is positive, the white wire or the other? Provided I have power to this, I don't think I will be able to start it without doing something with the ignition relay, is this fair? I think the last time I was successful with this, I had to jump the ignition relay as well.

I think it may be time to get my go pro out there and just point and let you all watch me electrocute myself, hahaha
You won't get electrocuted with 12V, you will cause a large arc if you ground one of the heavy battery cables. To be safe remove the wires from both small terminals. Be careful when removing the outer nuts, sometime the stud will turn with the nut. Turning the stud can/will break the internal wire for the coil that is connected to the stud. If the stud does turn you will need to hold the inner nut. With the wires removed from the small terminals connect a grounded wire to one of the terminals. Connect a 12V+ to the other terminal. You should hear the solenoid operate, if not swap the wires on the terminals. The best way to do the 12V+ wire is use a short piece of wire and touch one end to the small terminal and the other end to one of the large terminals. Only one side of the solenoid will have 12V+ through it when the contacts are open. If the solenoid does not operate the first time try the other large terminal. However, it appears that the interconnect solenoid on the above right is connected to the right terminal of the chassis solenoid. That would means that the right terminal of the chassis solenoid is always hot. As YC1 said you need to get an inexpensive digital multi voltmeter and learn to use it. If you have a Harbor Freight near you buy their cheapest meter about $6.
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:16 AM   #27
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I am going to jump in here,
Everyone has covered well how to activate ( or jump ) a solenoid but what needs to be remembered is just because you successfully activate it doesn't mean it will connect the two large post, and even if it does it still may not be capable of carrying the current required

It could be broken internally and therefore not connecting the top terminals or it could connect them but with a poor contact from previous multiple connections and arcing and not be able to carry the amount of current needed.

If this has been covered sorry didn't read every post. Solenoid has primary and secondary, small wires to activate are primary large are secondary.

FYI when running across a thread like this I copy and paste it to myself in my email and put it in a folder for further reference.
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Old 01-25-2016, 10:11 AM   #28
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I have read this entire thread a few times and have not seen a description of the OPs problem. He started off by wanting to know how to jumper the relays. But why? Because someone told him he needed to jump relays?
Koolkx, the diagram you show indicates that you have the ability to switch both your house and chassis batteries on and off independently. Are you sure that the switches have been pressed to turn on the solenoids?
Please provide us with the reason why you're troubleshooting. What are the symptoms?
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