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Old 06-15-2011, 10:06 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Hillbilly2 View Post
If it was a welder outlet, it would be straight 240, with the third wire as a ground. Not advisable to use as 50 amp 120/240 rv service.
Doing this will let all the smoke out of any appliance that is turned on in the RV!!
But if you need new appliances anyway.............

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Old 06-16-2011, 05:07 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by don-deb View Post
A driven ground is a back-up ground /neutral.....incase you loose the neutral on the utility service line. It stays out of the circuit ....unlike the service neutral.....that carrys amperage back to the utility. Never tie the two together.
The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires the ground rod (grounding electrode) to be tied together, but only at the service. They are always tied together if properly installed. If it is driven at the some point past the service disconnect, it is connected to the equipment ground, not the nueutral, but is still physically connected to neutral back at the service where the equipment ground is connected. Yes, it is sort of a backup in case of a broken neutral, but it is designed to help limit the amount of damaged caused by an open neutral.

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Old 06-16-2011, 05:47 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Olpapa View Post
They all sound simple enough but as I said in my comments...step in water and touch this wire and that wire and...you know the rest. I think I'll just hire an electrician so it is correct.

Thanks again,


PS - I will go fishing while they install this hookup.

Good idea!! A better and safer use of your time and talent. The electrician should be done when you return with dinner.
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:51 AM   #18
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Do NOT try to use the welder/dryer 3 prong, 220v outlet or its wiring. It lacks the neutral needed by an RV for either 30A or 50A service.

Be careful of hiring a residential electrician as well. They often know nothing about the type of service required for an RV and have all too frequently created disasters in the RV.
Here is an excellent guide you can print and hand to the electrician:

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Old 06-16-2011, 08:15 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by don-deb View Post
A 220 electric stove does NOT use a NEUTRAL......just 2 hots and a GROUND..........
This is not 100% correct. National Electric Code used to permit stoves to use a 3-wire configuration in which the neutral and ground were shared. In new installations code now requires that stoves have basically the same 4-wire installation as any other 240V appliance. The stove has always needed the ability to have 120V available to power the lights, clock, etc.
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:43 AM   #20
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This looks like an accident waiting to happen;
Fellow worker decided to wire in a 220 air in his house; his wife is now a widow.
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:08 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by don-deb View Post
A 220 electric stove does NOT use a NEUTRAL......just 2 hots and a GROUND..........

The best is to hire an electrician.........
A 220 volt WELDER does not use 120 volts, true. Likewise a 220 volt Air Compressor.

But a Oven/Range and a Dryer both use 120 volts as well as 220.. Ask me to prove it and I will point out the timer circuits.. Both Dryers and Ovens often have timer circuits, these use 120 volt motors. The drum motor in a dryer may be 120 volt as well.. Some dryers have light bulbs in them (Used to anyway) and many Ranges have a light, and/or a vent fan in the hood, all these are 120 volt

Only the heat elements are 240 volt.

So a Range does use 120 volt.. Oh, it will have a 120 volt accessory socket on it too... You can verify this with your eyes.
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:06 AM   #22
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I have tried this.
After replacing 2 TV's, an inverter, transfer box, and lord knows what else they installed. I will forever more hire a qualified electrician AND supply him with schematic drawings on RV hookups. RV stuff is totally different, even most electricians don't know the difference.


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