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06-15-2011, 10:06 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillbilly2
If it was a welder outlet, it would be straight 240, with the third wire as a ground. Not advisable to use as 50 amp 120/240 rv service.
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Doing this will let all the smoke out of any appliance that is turned on in the RV!!
But if you need new appliances anyway.............
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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06-16-2011, 05:07 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Blairsville,GA
Posts: 257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don-deb
A driven ground is a back-up ground /neutral.....incase you loose the neutral on the utility service line. It stays out of the circuit ....unlike the service neutral.....that carrys amperage back to the utility. Never tie the two together.
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The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires the ground rod (grounding electrode) to be tied together, but only at the service. They are always tied together if properly installed. If it is driven at the some point past the service disconnect, it is connected to the equipment ground, not the nueutral, but is still physically connected to neutral back at the service where the equipment ground is connected. Yes, it is sort of a backup in case of a broken neutral, but it is designed to help limit the amount of damaged caused by an open neutral.
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06-16-2011, 05:47 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: wherever
Posts: 432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olpapa
They all sound simple enough but as I said in my comments...step in water and touch this wire and that wire and...you know the rest. I think I'll just hire an electrician so it is correct.
Thanks again,
Olpapa
PS - I will go fishing while they install this hookup.
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Good idea!! A better and safer use of your time and talent. The electrician should be done when you return with dinner.
__________________
2007 Adventurer 38T w/
sway & trac bars, Koni FSDs and SafeT+
2006 Jeep Liberty toad
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06-16-2011, 07:51 AM
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#18
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,713
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Do NOT try to use the welder/dryer 3 prong, 220v outlet or its wiring. It lacks the neutral needed by an RV for either 30A or 50A service.
Be careful of hiring a residential electrician as well. They often know nothing about the type of service required for an RV and have all too frequently created disasters in the RV.
Here is an excellent guide you can print and hand to the electrician:
http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/50-amp%20Service.pdf
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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06-16-2011, 08:15 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Official iRV2 Sponsor
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 8,305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don-deb
A 220 electric stove does NOT use a NEUTRAL......just 2 hots and a GROUND..........
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This is not 100% correct. National Electric Code used to permit stoves to use a 3-wire configuration in which the neutral and ground were shared. In new installations code now requires that stoves have basically the same 4-wire installation as any other 240V appliance. The stove has always needed the ability to have 120V available to power the lights, clock, etc.
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Joel (AKA docj)--
RV Technology Specialist
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06-16-2011, 09:43 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,378
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This looks like an accident waiting to happen;
Fellow worker decided to wire in a 220 air in his house; his wife is now a widow.
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06-16-2011, 11:08 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don-deb
A 220 electric stove does NOT use a NEUTRAL......just 2 hots and a GROUND..........
The best is to hire an electrician.........
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A 220 volt WELDER does not use 120 volts, true. Likewise a 220 volt Air Compressor.
But a Oven/Range and a Dryer both use 120 volts as well as 220.. Ask me to prove it and I will point out the timer circuits.. Both Dryers and Ovens often have timer circuits, these use 120 volt motors. The drum motor in a dryer may be 120 volt as well.. Some dryers have light bulbs in them (Used to anyway) and many Ranges have a light, and/or a vent fan in the hood, all these are 120 volt
Only the heat elements are 240 volt.
So a Range does use 120 volt.. Oh, it will have a 120 volt accessory socket on it too... You can verify this with your eyes.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
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06-21-2011, 08:06 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 108
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I have tried this.
After replacing 2 TV's, an inverter, transfer box, and lord knows what else they installed. I will forever more hire a qualified electrician AND supply him with schematic drawings on RV hookups. RV stuff is totally different, even most electricians don't know the difference.
Kerry
__________________
2000 Fleetwood American Eagle DP
2010 Cadillac SRX, 4 bicycles
Fulltiming since Oct. 2, 2010. Kerry & Bess Ann
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