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Old 02-21-2014, 07:45 PM   #29
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Three of you have said that cable 8 should be attached to battery 2 and 4 negative posts. Could this have been what has killed battery 2? That's the one we had to replace.
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Old 02-21-2014, 07:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4tfamily View Post
Three of you have said that cable 8 should be attached to battery 2 and 4 negative posts. Could this have been what has killed battery 2? That's the one we had to replace.
It's possible that the current draw through B2 is elevated and that B2 is providing the majority of the load throughout the system. So, IMHO, yes.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:23 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camper33 View Post
Jumper wire C8 should be hooked from the - where the green wire is on the right hand battery (B4) to the - where the red wire (C5) is connected at battery B2. C1 goes to a fuse so that is connected correctly at the +. The way you are connected now your inverter/charger is only maintaining 2 of the four batteries, and your coach is drawing current off the other 2 batteries.

I am no electrician but sketching out the wiring layout as in the picture I come up with the same conclusion as ^^
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:04 PM   #32
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Now that I see C1 and C2 are connected to a "fuse" on + side, that is OK.
Looks like C8 is the problem. Camper33 has it right on, more than likely...
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:20 PM   #33
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Smile

Ok,
I just recently went over this same situation and you can look at it until it drives you nuts.
The easiest way to wire this is this:
Batteries 1 & 3 get wired together on either the positive or negative side.
Batteries 2 & 4 get wired together opposite of 1 & 3
After that, wire 1 & 3 with a jumper from positive to negative = 12v
Then 2 & 4 similarly, this = 12v also.
12v + 12v in series = more 12v capacity. This is whats known as a series/parallel
Circuit.
Corrosion is a big issue as I had to correct the same problem as the battery bank was
Not getting fully charged.
Write it down on a piece of paper to help visualize.
It seems counter intuitive but it may be easier to take it all loose, clean it up,
And reinstall accordingly.
Good luck!
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:34 PM   #34
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Here is the way it should look

one picture = 1000 words. you only have one wire in the wrong place

I move your c8 yellow wire to the neg terminals
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:41 PM   #35
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OK, I read and posted in the original thread this OP started. If the batteries are connected as mo indicated in his sketch it appears to be hooked up very wrong. If this is the way it is now call the RV service techs that worked on your coach and demand your money back. If you paid by credit card call the credit card company and have them not pay that service charge. Hopefully by now you are in florida in the campground you were headed for. Ask some of the people that are there where a decent RV service center is located at and go there to get it fixed right. To be brutally honest you need to get it fixed right and then make a wiring diagram for your paperwork on how it is supposed to be hooked up. To the best of my knowledge you have had new batteries installed. You have had service techs come and work on it. The service techs first tried to sell you a new inverter which you did not need and then told you that you had a bad battery after several people on here disagreed with the service techs. At this point get some people in their RV's where you are to send you to someplace reliable get it fixed right then make notes, diagrams, pictures in a file and have it for future reference. Some people just have bad luck when it comes to finding people to make repairs. Get some expert local advice and then educate yourself on how it should be for future reference.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:07 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ladagobago View Post
one picture = 1000 words. you only have one wire in the wrong place

I move your c8 yellow wire to the neg terminals
You should be able to move this cable as ladagobago shows yourself without too much trouble. I also agree that you should demand your money back, IMHO the techs who have worked on this did not know what they were doing.

If you do it yourself here are some tips:

Wrap any metal tool handles you may be using with several layers of electrical tape.

Tape cardboard to metal pieces you think you may brush the lugs against to keep them from arcing.

When you remove the cables, remove one lug at a time and wrap with several layers of electrical tape. You'll have have multiple lugs to remove from some terminals so have a helper keep the other lugs on the battery terminal as you remove and insulate each lug.

When you replace them, clean the lugs and battery terminals with a solution of baking soda and water before putting them back together.
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Old 02-22-2014, 07:21 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by RandyMan View Post
Ok,

After that, wire 1 & 3 with a jumper from positive to negative = 12v
Then 2 & 4 similarly, this = 12v also.
12v + 12v in series = more 12v capacity.
Good luck!
Shouldn't that be 1 & 2 with a jumper from positive to negative
Then 3 & 4 ?
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:02 AM   #38
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Your wiring is correct. I would be looking at the stand off or shunt or what ever that is connected to C1.

The diagram on the left is typical 4 6v battery connections. The diagram on the right puts your cable numbers to it.

C3 & C4 are pos and neg taps to power something in your rig like an inverter or converter. C2 is also a tap. Verify C5 goes to a clean ground connection.

Time to check voltages, with power and without, that will tell you if your converter/inverter-charger is working. 13+ volts with power connected, less when power is removed.
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:09 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgscott4 View Post
Your wiring is correct. I would be looking at the stand off or shunt or what ever that is connected to C1.

The diagram on the left is typical 4 6v battery connections. The diagram on the right puts your cable numbers to it.
+1

IIRC the OP mentioned that the batteries would charge on alternator but not on shore power. To me it sounds like an inverter/charger issue.
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:19 AM   #40
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Please be very careful about what you are reading here.

This drawing does not correctly represent your "current" set up.


It incorrectly shows C8 connected to B2 minus. Your picture shows C8 connected to B1 minus. That is the specific problem MoeBelly was pointing to.

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Old 02-22-2014, 08:25 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgscott4 View Post
Your wiring is correct. I would be looking at the stand off or shunt or what ever that is connected to C1.

The diagram on the left is typical 4 6v battery connections. The diagram on the right puts your cable numbers to it.

C3 & C4 are pos and neg taps to power something in your rig like an inverter or converter. C2 is also a tap. Verify C5 goes to a clean ground connection.

Time to check voltages, with power and without, that will tell you if your converter/inverter-charger is working. 13+ volts with power connected, less when power is removed.
Nooooo...In my current setup c6 & c8 BOTH go to batteries 1 & 3. That's what's wrong. Whether that's the sole problem is still questionable. But they are definitely wired wrong.
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:27 AM   #42
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Read my diagram again, C8 is connected to B2 minus and B4 minus
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