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Old 07-08-2012, 10:32 PM   #15
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 10
That's why when I found out that one of my parents friend wanted to have one of two TT removed from the permeant set up I said I'll take it 92 dutchman classic,26ft wanted it for the appliances , Hot water gas/115volt/heat exchanger, new furnace in 02, nice 4 burner stove, nice microwave oven, roof top a/c works nice and a 6.5 cubic foot fridge that needed to be rewired (mice and wire don't mix) fixed wire and fridge was making ice cubs on coldest setting, no computer boards at all for fridge and a/c units. Putting all in to 90 MH to update appliances. Fridge is a Norcold 462 call up tech services ask if the could email me a wire diagram had it with in 30 minutes of getting of phone, I also burb my fridges every two years turn upside down for about 12-14 hrs then let set upright for 24 hrs turn on. Started doing that when I was told that fridge in my 85 prowler needed to be replace not getting below 50 in fridge, now 12 years later fridge still going strong. If possible would suggest trying to find nice older fridge with no computer boards just spark control.

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Old 07-09-2012, 09:16 AM   #16
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Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 23,967
Dometic, Attwood, Power Gear, Kwickee, and A&W (All same company) do not provide support to end users save for web page document downloads.. They only talk to dealers.

I could give you my opinion of this, but alas, I don't want to make the moderators censor my post and send me nasty private messages about my language. So I won't. But I'm sure you can figure it out.

You can download the service manual however, Very handy thing to have.. Just to to the web site or google "make model manual" where make and model are the make and model of your fridge.

DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) sequency is something like this (NOTE: this is from memory so if I miss a step, apologies in advance)

Thermostat calls for, in this case, cold.
Control board opens gas valve and starts sending voltage to the spark points.
Gas ignights and starts to burn.

(From what you are saying everything is working to this point)

Thermocouple WHICH MAY BE THE NON_GROUND IGNITION POINT (I am still trying to figure out how they pull that off) is then read by the control board (After the ignition cycle) to see if it is generating voltage (Roughly 1/2 volt, Now understand the ignition voltage is roughly 1,000 volts).

My fridge still works as designed, but on my furnace (Also an attwood) this did not happen, (no sensing of voltage) Per my test gear voltage was present, just not seen by the mother board. My guess is the switch from ignition to sense wend badly and 1KV AC hit a sensor designed for less than 1/2 volt DC and fried it big time. I'm told however that the folks who solder Attwood boards need.. More practice.

Priced a new Attwood board.. Changed underwear,, Ordered a Dinosaur board. (less than half the price, shipping and handling included).

I am trained as an electronics technician, never worked that job but do have an Extra Class ham radio license which I last used, about 10 minutes ago, I took a good hard look at that Dino board.

I got a serious sense of QUALITY.. one I did not get with the attwood board, Plus I noticed a component that was not on the ATTWOOD board.. It appears to be designed specifically to protect against the type of failure I suspect happened to my OEM Board.

Now: common issues:

If the burner is dirty, (Say a spider nesting in the oriface) the flame won't get hot enough. Likewise if it is out of adjustment,

The flame sensor can get dirty, the build up of carbon acts as insulation to keep it from getting hot enough.

Dirty connections (At 1/2 volt or less it dont' take much)

And last on the list is the control board.

Home is where I park it!
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