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Old 07-16-2012, 04:40 PM   #15
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Thanks for the all the replies. A lot of helpful information here. I'm probably not in a position to put a 110v Fridge in at this point but maybe down the road. I should have taken the cover off to let the Fridge breathe. Good idea.

sc3283 - NHRA Super Stock. Our motorhome is multi purpose. Weekends are equally split between Walmarts, Drag Strips, and Campgrounds. Life is all about the balance! Sometimes we hit all three in a long weekend

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Old 07-16-2012, 10:35 PM   #16
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drag, a late model body or hemi?

96 Dynasty 36' that does NOT wander, thanks to RuppParts.com and their superior "poly" suspension bushings
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:45 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Nrrcold, Dometic and Fantastic Fan all say that it's more efficient to pull the air out than pus it in sot he fans should be located at the exhaust (top) vent
WOW! let me try that again!!

Norcold, Dometic and Fantastic Fan all say it's more efficient to pull the air out than push it in so the fans should be located at the exhaust (top) vent.

Darn fat fingers!!
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA, SKP
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 CR-V
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:57 AM   #18
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Makes sense to pull the air. Looking forward to getting home to try that.

I have a '71 340 Duster. Runs in SS/JA. I also have a '68 SS/AH Dart but its proven that it is not a family friendly car as it requires a full day's work just to make a few runs. That car is reserved for the odd boy's weekend. The Duster allows for some fun and quality time with kids instead of valve springs at track
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:29 AM   #19
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Installed rear cooling fan, and now the frig is maintaining a temp of <40 degrees. Prior to the rear cooling fan, we were in the mid to upper 40's. The hot weather was really hard on the frig until we had the rear fan installed, now all seems ok.....
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Old 07-17-2012, 07:06 AM   #20
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My 1991 had it's fridge updated to the Dometic Classic model. It worked "OK" when I used it in moderate temperatures. However, once the mercury hit 90, all bets were off. I got stuck parking with the fridge chimney facing the sun and no trees or shade in site. My fridge temp crept up like a housecat stalking a mouse. I'd read all I could on installing a fridge fan, and decided to try that route.

I wrote an article for the RV Newsletter about the install:

WanderMan: Do You Like Your Drinks COLD? - Installing a Fridge Chimney Fan.

Since then I get down to under 40 in the fridge and -2 in the freezer within 8 hours in "normal temps" and at 95+ with the single 120mm fan running it will maintain those temps when set to "4" out of "5" on the control panel.

An easy and inexpensive fix!

Rich "The Wanderman"
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Almost 100% Self Sufficient!
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Old 07-17-2012, 07:20 AM   #21
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On a recent camping trip I had trouble with my Dometic staying cool enough. I noticed I was a little of level front end high. I leveled the MH again and it strarted working. It stayed below 40° even with the outside temp close to 100°. I have a extra fan inside the fridge and that is it.
2015 Grand Design 29RS 5th wheel
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:16 PM   #22
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springer pop did you wire the fans in parallel with 12 volt valve or do they run all the time? thanks.
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Old 07-26-2012, 06:29 PM   #23
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Installed a switch for them in the wall above the fridge so I can only manually control them.

They are all wired in parallel, so it's all or nothing. "On" during hot days, "off" during the cooler ones. Thermostatic switches are just another failure point that I don't need.

They are quiet enough to leave on all night if necessary or desired, and are virtually noiseless.

With a 50,000 hour expected life, and a current draw for all-combined at under an amp, I usually just leave them on if on shore power.


"You never know what's waiting around the corner,
but don't let that slow you down"
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dometic, fridge

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