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Old 10-17-2016, 11:48 AM   #1
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Dometic fridge removal

We have a 2010 Revolution LE
We have removed the Dometic fridge and install a new Samsung
Everything went great
My problem is; what to do with the outside vent doors
I was hoping to find a blank door (without vents) to replace then but I have had no luck
What is everyone doing with this vent doors
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:02 PM   #2
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Welcome to IRV2

I am in planning mode to change to a residential. At this time my plan is to block or insulate the top and 2 sides of the new refer to avoid drafts. Leave the top vent as is and block the 2 of the 3 vent louvers of the bottom vent. I will add small exhaust fan(s) if needed. Thinking this should provide decent circulation. I don't want the refer heat going into the interior. I have no thoughts about changing the vents as mine are custom painted to the coach exterior.

Be interesting to see other answers from those who have made the swap.
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:09 PM   #3
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Look on ebay, I've found several different type doors (vented and unvented) for various projects I've worked on.
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:31 PM   #4
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When I swapped my 2008 Bus Norcold for a residential, I got my blank for the access hatch from Tiffin. I had to paint it but it wasn'r a big deal.
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Old 10-17-2016, 01:03 PM   #5
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Get some of the tape used to put together heating ducts and cover the vents onthe inside of the door. I left a couple of the end vents open but I don't think it is really necessary. It has been a couple of years and the tape hasn't come loose yet
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Old 10-17-2016, 02:23 PM   #6
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I used some foil bubble wrap from ACE Hardware to cover the inside of the vent. I sealed the bubble wrap with aluminum tape also from ACE Hardware. I closed off the top vent because it is not needed. Not that much heat generated by the refrigerator. Also, if you leave the top vent open, you will lose heated air in the colder months and allow hot air in when the weather is warm. I left the top vent open for part of the summer and more hot air come in than went out.

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Old 10-17-2016, 02:31 PM   #7
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I had some insulated bubble foil from Lowes. I cleaned the inside of the panel, cut the foil to size, then sprayed the panel and foil with 3 M adhesive, pressed the foil to the panel, and let dry for 24 hours. Works perfect.
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Old 10-18-2016, 07:33 AM   #8
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I used some 1 inch thick insulation and liquid nails to glue to back of panel to close it up and the same for the ceiling v.ent
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:05 PM   #9
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I used some strip of Eternabond tape to seal the openings. No issues.
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Old 11-21-2016, 08:17 PM   #10
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Side vent; covered back side with super glue and window screen to keep the wasps and dirt dobbers out. I left the rooftop vent as is. Stuffed insolation around sides and top of back of residential install to stop air infusion or loss inside the coach. I am in the south and need air movement for fridge heat exchange to cool properly.
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Old 11-22-2016, 07:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brockx View Post
Welcome to IRV2

I am in planning mode to change to a residential. At this time my plan is to block or insulate the top and 2 sides of the new refer to avoid drafts. Leave the top vent as is and block the 2 of the 3 vent louvers of the bottom vent. I will add small exhaust fan(s) if needed. Thinking this should provide decent circulation. I don't want the refer heat going into the interior. I have no thoughts about changing the vents as mine are custom painted to the coach exterior.

Be interesting to see other answers from those who have made the swap.
Brockx, are you going to add batteties and inverter to run the refrigerator on the road, or run the generator? I have been thinking about this too, but not sure how I would power the refrigerator on the road.
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Old 11-23-2016, 05:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomandGloria View Post
Brockx, are you going to add batteties and inverter to run the refrigerator on the road, or run the generator? I have been thinking about this too, but not sure how I would power the refrigerator on the road.
I bought a Xantrex transfer relay (Amazon) to allow automatic transfer from shore or generator power to inverter.

I took delivery of the refrigerator last week, installed the ice maker and hooked everything up in the garage for a "run test".

I have an 800 watt inverter that we use for on the road crock pot cooking and it ran the refer for my test. I plan to buy a 1500 or larger Pure Sine Wave inverter to power the refer and crock pot.

I don't want to run the generator (just my personal choice) on the road. Our dash air keeps the driver compartment cool and the galley bearable on the road.
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Old 11-23-2016, 08:31 AM   #13
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I have been running a residential for two years now, including travel. My schedules are normally about 6-8 hours off shore power when traveling. With thermometer increases in temp in freezer 5 degrees and fridge no higher than 45 degrees if kept closed when not running gen while traveling. Stopping for lunch I usually start gen for an hour to cool coach so fridge recovers before turning off the gen. Could probably keep in cooler by transferring some freezer blocks into the fridge part before closing it up.
Check it out. For about $4 you can get a thermometer and watch the temp yourself before investing in batteries and inverters. Of coarse if your dry camping, that's another story.
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Old 11-24-2016, 11:06 AM   #14
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I have an indoor/outdoor thermometer in the NotCold now. I have the receiver velcroed to the dash to keep an eye on it traveling or stopped.
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