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Old 04-21-2013, 07:41 AM   #29
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I found my alarm under the dash and put a piece of duct tape on it. It is now quieter but still can be heard. Cheap easy fix!
This is what I did and helps without modifying the safety aspect.
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:01 AM   #30
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You will not be able to get any legit garage to stop or change the air brake warning light or signal. Should they do that, and you have an accident, that makes them responsible under DOT regulations.
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:24 AM   #31
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[QUOTE=Craig_R;1527535]Just to add a little to what Chris said. When your air pressure drops below 60-70 psi your low air warning device(s) will be activated. The idea is to give you time to react and get stopped safely before the air pressure drops below 30-35 pounds when the Spring (Parking/Emergency) Brakes will be automatically applied. /QUOTE]

From what I was taught recently in the Air Endorsement course I just took, if the pressure drops to 45 psi, the Spring Brakes will automatically apply. So don't wait thinking you have another 10 plus pounds.

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Please correct me if I'm wrong but I think most motor homes do.

We have a Tiffin Phaeton on Freightliner XC chassis (very common) and I think there's just two 2 tanks (primary and secondary) + wet tank and I think front brakes are on one tank, rears are on the other and the airbags share one of the tanks with the brakes.
According to the course I just took, there should be 3 tanks. First is a Wet tank, followed by your Primary (Front) and Secondary (rear) tanks. The Primary and Secondary tanks are what show on your Air Gauge(s).
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Old 04-21-2013, 09:36 AM   #32
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I still can't locate the alarm/chime for my low air and seat belt
indicator.


Sounds like its buried in the dash near the speedometer but I have looked and looked.

Any ideas on a 2006 Monaco Diplomat?
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Old 04-21-2013, 10:41 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig_R View Post
Just to add a little to what Chris said. When your air pressure drops below 60-70 psi your low air warning device(s) will be activated. The idea is to give you time to react and get stopped safely before the air pressure drops below 30-35 pounds when the Spring (Parking/Emergency) Brakes will be automatically applied.
From what I was taught recently in the Air Endorsement course I just took, if the pressure drops to 45 psi, the Spring Brakes will automatically apply. So don't wait thinking you have another 10 plus pounds.

According to the course I just took, there should be 3 tanks. First is a Wet tank, followed by your Primary (Front) and Secondary (rear) tanks. The Primary and Secondary tanks are what show on your Air Gauge(s).
In the two schematics below, the first is a dual circuit (3 tank) system and the second is a single circuit (two tank) system. The dual circuit system is the more modern and preferred system but there are still many single circuit systems on the road.

With regard to spring brakes, my own will come on at between 30-35 psi when pump down the air pressure to test them. US DOT requires that spring brakes apply at 20-40 psi. I can't imagine that the Canadian Transportation Ministry has a much different requirement because we are operating the same vehicles from the same manufacturers on both sides of the border.



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Old 04-21-2013, 12:13 PM   #34
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You may be right Craig. I think they taught us the 45 psi warning came from "Be sure you are safely off the road if you see you air pressure drop to 45 psi" as after that the spring brakes will apply.

I'll pull over before 45 psi and not take the chance if air pressure loss were to occur. 30-35 psi is too late I think.

Just my opinion.
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:41 PM   #35
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You may be right Craig. I think they taught us the 45 psi warning came from "Be sure you are safely off the road if you see you air pressure drop to 45 psi" as after that the spring brakes will apply.

I'll pull over before 45 psi and not take the chance if air pressure loss were to occur. 30-35 psi is too late I think.

Just my opinion.
I agree completely. Many years ago I was training a co-worker to drive a tractor-trailer and he was driving on the way to Logan Airport in East Boston. While we were going through the Callahan Tunnel he noticed that air pressure was down to around 75 psi and wasn't building. There was a lot of stop and go traffic at that time of the day and I urged him to use the brakes as little as possible to try to at least get out of the tunnel. We no sooner exited the tunnel and got down a side street than the spring brakes popped and there we sat for a few hours until a tow truck go to us. If I remember correctly the air compressor had failed.
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:48 PM   #36
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Dogpatch: Easy to find out when your spring brakes activate...Part of the airbrake test.... Engine off, and yellow brake knob in. Press and release (fan) your service brake pedal, checking the air pressure until the yellow knob pops out. Your spring brakes just applied.
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:21 PM   #37
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Dogpatch: Easy to find out when your spring brakes activate...Part of the airbrake test.... Engine off, and yellow brake knob in. Press and release (fan) your service brake pedal, checking the air pressure until the yellow knob pops out. Your spring brakes just applied.
I knew that from my course. Thanks.
Just haven't tested my brakes for that yet. Did the warning light, fanning brake till 60 psi and warning light/buzzer should activate and air loss test where you apply full brake for one minute. That one you shouldn't lose more than 3 psi in the one minute test.
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:54 PM   #38
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I still can't locate the alarm/chime for my low air and seat belt
indicator.


Sounds like its buried in the dash near the speedometer but I have looked and looked.

Any ideas on a 2006 Monaco Diplomat?
On my Imperial it was buried in the dash. I took the screws out of the panel with the speedo and tach. etc, and gently pulled it back and then turn on the key and listen for it. it is roughly 2 inches square and has sort of a speaker grill on it. Just be carefull not to disturb or unhook anything else when in there as it is full of wires and airlines etc. On mine the wires were long enough that I pulled it down under the dash and mounted it there. That way I could apply the duct tape to the right amount to make it a little quieter without disabling it.
I have driven lots of air equipped vehicles and air bleed overnight is very common due to small leaks very hard to find. If they are loud enough to hear then fix them. If when driving down the road and your air pressure stays normal with exception when you are using the brakes I would not worry. If you see your gauge going down and then back up when the compressor builds it up and then steadily going down again it is best to get off the road and determine what is wrong. You do not want to be in traffic when the parking brake applies, because you will be a sitting duck. I hope that helps.
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Old 04-21-2013, 06:15 PM   #39
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Sorry to say this but looking at some of the answers coming back there needs to be some air brake education before you start tampering with the air brake system. The devices installed are for your and other peoples safety and you should understand the system before you drive a unit with air brakes.
I agree. Wonder how many took the air brake portion of the test? Or took the test at all.
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:26 PM   #40
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Alarm off switch

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On my 2001 Marlin DP, is there any way to reduce or eliminate the shrill alarm for the air pressure alarm to reach it's normal operating pressure? The sound drives one of my dogs crazy and it scares the sxxt out of her. She hates to come in the coach because she is afraid of the sound. I can take it but she can't. I have to leave her out of the coach for the minute or two for it to stop (from a cold start up). Even from a warm start up, the momentary shrill sounds freak her out. Very inconvenient.

The gauges have warning lights that don't go off until pressure is reached and I am fully aware that I cannot move the coach until the pressure is adequate. So turning off (disconnecting) the audio alarm is not a safety issue for me.

Thanks,

John
My air pressure gauges are all over the place - Tryin' to find the ground wire problem, I have poked the diaphram of the buzzer out and listen for my brakes to purge ie..full pressure. But, I'd like to disable the jack buzzer but that is pretty important. Good luck
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:08 PM   #41
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I have a 2003 Gulfstream DP and while driving the low air alarm went off. Both the front and rear gauges read about 60psi. As I hit the brakes the pressure wend down and won't build back up. We just pulled into a KOA in Smithfield NC for a 1 nighter. Being new to DP is there anything easy I can look for to determine why no pressure?
Thanks\jim
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:42 PM   #42
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I have a 2003 Gulfstream DP and while driving the low air alarm went off. Both the front and rear gauges read about 60psi. As I hit the brakes the pressure wend down and won't build back up. We just pulled into a KOA in Smithfield NC for a 1 nighter. Being new to DP is there anything easy I can look for to determine why no pressure?
Thanks\jim
You did the right thing by stopping (it's not safe and you risk damaging your coach because your air bags likely won't inflate either).

As far as the problem, if neither system are showing any pressure it narrows it down quite a bit but offhand I wouldn't know enough to help you. Could be your compressor (I believe some are belt driven so it could be as simple as a worn or broken belt), your governor (it tells the compressor to start filling the tanks when the pressure gets to around 85 psi - no idea how those are serviced), safety valve or stuck drain valve on wet tank or supply line to the wet tank - other than those, I'm not sure if there's anything else that would cause both systems to fail.

See if you can get pressure in the morning but if not, you'll probably need to get towed to a service centre.

Best of luck.
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