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Old 11-17-2011, 08:50 AM   #1
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DP Cooling Efficiency: Cottage Cheese on Fan Blades

Yup, it looked like a thin layer of black cottage cheese.

The former owner had been meticulous, degreased the engine every few months. The rig burns clean, without a hint of black smoke in her exhaust, doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. I've cleaned and flow-checked every square inch of the radiators, they've stayed as clean as a factory-new model.

But, the fan blades pick up blow-by and gunk off the road... In a year of ownership, I'd degreased and pressure-washed the engine from underneath several times; so, imagine my surprise when I actually touched the blades from the bedroom closet hatch and found them to be covered in a film of goo. They'd looked black under the worklight; but, an hour later, they were white!

I found that you can spray 'em with purple degreaser all day long; but, unless you scrub vigorously with a long-handled brush and re-apply, the buildup is not broken down.

No way of knowing how much this burden of filth affected the efficiency of the fan, or caused it to rotate out of balance. It'll be interesting to see if it runs cooler, the next time we cruise down a hot highway, in July or August.
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:14 AM   #2
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You need to go to an autoparts store and buy 2-4 cans of a brand name engine degreaser called Gunk (original) Spray Engine Degreaser. Don't get the foam but get the original. This stuff cuts the grease and oil far better and quicker than Simple Green or the Purple. Spray it from both sides on a dry radiator and let it sit for 10-15 minutes and spary with the hose from both sides. It works wonders. I can take a heavy oiled and dirty motor and clean it in one go. I have been using it for 30+ years. The other thing is there is a engine breather tube which is also referred to as a "slobber tube" which exits under the motor. It is a vertical pipe about 3/4 to 1" in diameter. This is the breather tube for the crankcase and emits a fine oil spray while driving and will coat a rear radiator and the toad. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and get some clear vinly tube and a clamp and fit it over the slobber tube end and run it out the back of the MH to a corner. This will eliminate most of the problems.
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:56 PM   #3
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Most newer moho's have the slobber tube going into a can. The top is vented, the hise goes ointo the bottom, so all the oil runs back into the engine. No more slobber. Such things can be rigged up pretty easily.
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Old 11-17-2011, 01:10 PM   #4
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Cummins makes an add on slobber tube vent box.
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Old 11-17-2011, 03:41 PM   #5
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Here is an article on cleaning the CAC and Radiator.

new_fcoc_web

Good luck
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:41 PM   #6
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Check your radiator as well....its probably full of the "cottage cheese" as well
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:24 AM   #7
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Man, what a mess. This is a problem on the coach I bought a few months ago as well (w/'96 Cat 3126). I had heard about the slobber tube issue as part of the research I did prior to buying this coach - so I was prepared for a mess going into it. But I wasn't REALLY prepared on the right level.

I tried Simple Green, and Dawn dish soap. Wasn't very happy with the results. I have a SMALL electric pressure washer, so I tried that. I tested it on the radiator fins and found that it didn't bother them (but I never held the nozzle real close to them either, it wasn't necessary). So proceeded to do the engine, fan blades, everything, while avoiding anything electronic. I was soaked to the skin by time I was done, but it did look much better.

I had read a note from somebody somewhere, that had held a strip of paper towel up to the radiator side with the engine running, to check for airflow through the radiator. Doing this I proved to myself all areas did in fact have air flowing through them. No hidden blockages that might cause overheating.

That done, I was still trying to figure out what to do with the open slobber tube when I left on a 2000 mile trip. Now, after returning, I see I'm going to have to repeat the process. There's oil everywhere from the slobber tube on back. It's just a question of time until that oil attracts enough dirt to create "black cottage cheese".

After a lot of reading, I think the root of all this evil has to do with the markings on the dipstick. I haven't been into it yet, but if what I've read is any indication, there's a good chance the engine is blowing this oil out the breather because there's too much oil in it. Something to do with an engineering issue caused by the location of the crankcase vent/slobber tube being relocated to the side of the block and nobody saying anything to the chassis manf. - who continued installing the same dipsticks they had been using previous.

So, research so far shows I need to check/remark the proper oil level on the dipstick (requiring an oil change - which of course I just had done), and either extend the slobber tube or install the peanut butter bottle crap trap (or both) AFTER cleaning it up again. Ignoring the issue is going to create an icky dripping mess with likely cooling issues. -Al
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:19 AM   #8
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I am telling you guys that Dawn and Simple Green will not cut it. Especially way inside. You need GUNK ORIGINAL engine degreaser in a spray can that is available at autoparts stores. Don't use anything else. I am a diehard gearhead and I have been cleaning grease and oil off engines for years. Don't need a pressure washer with it. Just need a hose with a good streaming nozzle. Spray it on a dry radiator from both sides and let it soak for 10-15 minutes and hose it off. You will be amazed.

Gunk
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:39 AM   #9
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Mike tells the truth about the gunk engine degreaser. It also doesn't hurt to have the engine and rad warmed up a bit.
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Old 11-19-2011, 04:10 PM   #10
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I agree that original gunk is good for really dirty engines, but I remember that it is pretty smelly, and may take several days for the odor to disperse.
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Old 11-19-2011, 04:31 PM   #11
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Yes George there can be an after smell for a day if you don't rinse it all off but it is gone fast especially if you drive it. I spray my whole engine compartment with it about twice a year. I will get the transmission also. One picks up a lot of oil film and grit even on a side radiator unit. I first cover the alternator with a plastic bag and I do not spray Gunk on the fanbelts because they sometimes squeal afterwards for awhile.
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:29 PM   #12
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Another way to take care of the slobber mist is to install a Jaz Breather Tank.

My 06 Cummins in my coach has the new, then, Enviroguard that was supposed to stop dripping and misting. But, I had an oil leak behind the starter, making a mess. This closed system actually does have a vent and it is behind the starter. After installing the Jaz bottle, no more mess.

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Old 11-20-2011, 07:31 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycarz View Post
Another way to take care of the slobber mist is to install a Jaz Breather Tank.

My 06 Cummins in my coach has the new, then, Enviroguard that was supposed to stop dripping and misting. But, I had an oil leak behind the starter, making a mess. This closed system actually does have a vent and it is behind the starter. After installing the Jaz bottle, no more mess.

No offense, but I'm thinking that bottle can't breathe like a proper vent should. Cat is saying nothing smaller than 1" inside diameter?
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:43 AM   #14
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Ironically, The Radiator Isn't Cheesy

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Originally Posted by sc3283 View Post
Check your radiator as well....its probably full of the "cottage cheese" as well
That's the funny part: the radiator is operating-room clean!

Maybe the radiator alone responds to degreasing. It makes sense: the degreaser is held in close proximity, inside the fins; whereas the fan sheds applications and needs to be vigorously brushed/wiped.

Caution: Always use a delicate spray tip, when pressure-washing radiators. They can be damaged by high-pressure water.
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