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Old 02-20-2013, 07:01 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by La.Paul View Post
I too may have to travel through some cold weather next week and I was just wondering if there was any problem with using the furnace while traveling down the road. My dash heater also leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to really keeping cockpit warm. Thanks.
There is another thread on a similar issue with a diplomat re insuffient heat from the dash heater.

I had a 2001 dip for 4 years and when I drove in sub zero temperatures the dash heater did not do the job completly. I ran with the furnace on all the time when the outside air was colder than what I prefer as room temp and the furnace would come on as required based on the t-stat setting. Have done that with all my RV's in cold weather.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:33 AM   #16
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Hi Libro

I have never been in temps that cold. I'm sure my heater would be useless. Thank you for the info about running the furnace while driving. Didn't know you could do that. If by some wrong turn I end up in zero temps. Now I won't freeze to death.
Thanks
Rick
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:12 AM   #17
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Hi Libro

I have never been in temps that cold. I'm sure my heater would be useless. Thank you for the info about running the furnace while driving. Didn't know you could do that. If by some wrong turn I end up in zero temps. Now I won't freeze to death.
Thanks
Rick
Wrong turn -cute unfortunately back-in-the-day, I went were the military "suggested" I go, well it was more than a suggestion as military folks will understand.

Anyway I drove down the Alaska Hwy in early March one year (towing my small TT but not sleeping in it of course but was taking my effects on a transfer) and the temp never rose above -30 the entire trip until I got to Ft St John BC. In Watson Lake Yukon temp was -54. Could not get a plugin at the Motel so I filled the tank and left the car running and went to bed. Had the normal square tire effect in the morning of course and had my wife and 2 kids with me which made the trip more challenging and concerned. We travelled in convoy with another family for safety. Not thinking of bears re safety, they are too smart to be out in that weather and were warm in thier winter beds anyway, but the extreme cold was indeed a hazard. We had survival gear and I covered the rad completly to keep the heater warm.

Those who live north of 60 really know what this is like and know how to handle the cold. On the upside you are not bothered by mosquitos or black flies at these "cool" temps.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:17 AM   #18
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Hi Libero

That's a cold trip. Especially with a family in tow. I've been in the arctic circle. It's cold. Hence, I live in FL.
Thanks for the information.
Rick
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:36 AM   #19
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When it gets cold out. I always preheat my MH with the furnace. No way is that engine heater going to heat up a cold MH.
also check to make sure the cold air intake on the heater box is closed. Mine was stuck open. I get plenty of heat in my 2001 diplomat 38, once it's warmed up.
Rick
Hello Rick...

Totally understand that the dash heater won't keep the cab "warm" unless it is sunny outside helping warm things up or use of the furnace. If Sandee's feet are cold, I'm in trouble. LOL

It would be nice to find I need to tweak things to get a bit more warmth out of it. I think the biggest issue would be to have as much defogging/defrosting capability as possible. I'm not looking for something to make it possible to drive in sub-zero weather but perhaps keep the windshield from fogging with use of fans, furnace and dash.

Did I say keep Sandee's toes warm when she is driving is important?
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:27 AM   #20
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Regarding a "tweak"?
Something to consider is the fact that on most settings the heater is pulling in cold outside air and heating that (kinda). Now consider that the heater is capable of pulling inside air and boosting the temp on that pre-heated air when the heater is set to "recirculate" (max)?

The problem there though, is often the cab A/C is running trying to dehumidify that air when set to "recirculate" so no real benefit.

The cure, for those interested, is to locate the vacuum control that opens/closes the recirculate door (usually under the hood on the passenger's side) and pull/plug the vacuum line controlling it. That should leave the door in the recirculate position full time, pulling in pre heated air from the coaches interior full time regardless of heater control position. That preheated interior air obviously isn't as cold as that pulled from outside, and will need less heat added to it to feel warm?

Other heater control functions continue work as before (temp control, outlet selection, blower speed, A/C on/off, etc) without change. The big change is we will be handling air from the inside of the coach full time. Not outside air.

Further, in hot weather (90+), this same recirculating door is pulling hot air in and trying to cool that. If set as suggested above (w/recirculating door open full time), pulling air from inside full time, normally that interior air will be MUCH cooler than what's available from outside, boosting the cab A/C's ability to keep you cool as well (further cooling pre cooled air).

Nothing permanent to this mod. Hard part is locating that vacuum motor that opens/closes the recirculating door (and that's not that hard!). From there plugging/unplugging that line as you see fit not too big a deal?

I've found running the furnace and roof A/C as required, in conjunction with the "tweak" above, the lady and I stay comfortable in about any temp. I've experienced.
-Al
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:54 PM   #21
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Every motorhome that I've ever owned (six of them) has had the same problem. Three were gassers and three have been DP's. My solution has been to carry a pair of Ugg boots or slippers with the fur lining when I'm driving in cold weather.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:17 AM   #22
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use dash fans for window defogging and put ALL the heat to the floor...that may help with cold feet...hot air rises....so you always want to put as much down low as possible.

The recirc. door trick works great too....mine will increase 7 degrees @ vent with door closed as compared to open....7 doesn't sound like much but when your dealing with inadequate....7 might just do the trick.

Is the engine temp running "normal"....if not that MUST be fixed first
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