Community Forums

blahargoue · 07-22-2018, 12:28 PM

I'd also check for internal engine damage to the pistons, valves and head gasket.

Tha_Rooster · 07-22-2018, 02:01 PM

I read where they flush line, they did change filters?

saddlesore · 07-22-2018, 02:11 PM

Don't be afraid to "triple up" on the Lucas, some parts of the pump takes a while to get the effects of the Lucas product (idle governor being one)

mackwrench · 07-22-2018, 03:40 PM

Yes, you can "crack" fuel injector lines while running to check for engine miss.

With it at high idle, around 1200 rpm, loosen lines about 1/4 turn one at a time, if the engine is running on that cylinder it will start missing. if you loosen line and it make no change, then that respective cylinder is missing.

I worked for a large rental fleet (Penske) we used to get gas in diesel issues almost daily.

Before I'd just replace injection pump..... I'd.....

Change all filters, completely drain tank, add fuel, run a short time like 20 mins, replace fuel filters again. Run engine at 1200 or so for about an hour.... The engine returns more fuel than it burns at idle so race it up to high ldle...

People in your campground may not like it, lol....

seanp · 07-22-2018, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mackwrench

Yes, you can "crack" fuel injector lines while running to check for engine miss.

With it at high idle, around 1200 rpm, loosen lines about 1/4 turn one at a time, if the engine is running on that cylinder it will start missing. if you loosen line and it make no change, then that respective cylinder is missing.

I worked for a large rental fleet (Penske) we used to get gas in diesel issues almost daily.

Before I'd just replace injection pump..... I'd.....

Change all filters, completely drain tank, add fuel, run a short time like 20 mins, replace fuel filters again. Run engine at 1200 or so for about an hour.... The engine returns more fuel than it burns at idle so race it up to high ldle...

People in your campground may not like it, lol....

That process seems like an excellent idea. I can run over to Cummins first thing in the AM and get another set of fuel filters. Should I put some diesel in them to prime them, or is it not necessary? I can grab a small fuel canister at Walmart tonight to get that done.

Your post does give me hope because it is running better and better. We had to move it a few hundred feet to a different space at the park and the idle was much smoother along with it under load. Got it up to 1500 RPM in first and didn't notice the stutter from before, so who knows. Maybe I did get lucky after all.

seanp · 07-22-2018, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tha_Rooster

I read where they flush line, they did change filters?

They did say they changed the two filters and definitely charged me for both. The rear-most one looks dirty and has a dent in it, but from what I can tell by cracking the drain valve it is straight diesel coming out.

BRex45 · 07-22-2018, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanp

I've been lurking here for a few months now ever since purchasing a 1993 Fleetwood American Eagle about a month after this guy:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/our-...ss-382014.html

It was a happy coincidence I stumbled upon his post when working out my own solutions. Now I am in a bit of a pickle and hope someone might know the answer.

We are at the tail-end of a "round the USA" trip: California to KY across I-80, then back to CA through TX on the 40 & 10. We are in Tucson, AZ right now. I put in $125 worth of what I thought was Diesel (I've been driving diesel pickups for some time and have never made a mixup, but in KY a BP station had gas on a green handle and I almost did) in Douglas, AZ then finished the day driving to Tucson (evening time) and stopped at the Lazydays KOA. If you have the opportunity to stay here I would say do it, this place is amazing. Offseason prices are ridiculous (~$40/night) and the amenities are phenomenal. I digress.

We got up the next morning to get back on the road and found the motorhome to be running awful. Spewing white (I think) smoke out the back, no power, etc. We thought maybe it needed to be cleaned out so we headed out anyway, but did not even get out of the park gate before turning around to our space and getting another night. Drained the fuel/water separator into a bucket and found it to be a gasoline heavy mixture of both. Rather than draining it onto the ground and flushing with copious amounts of water, we had it towed about half a mile to the International Dealer here (more on them later. not happy.). They took about a day and a half to "drain the tank and flush the lines" to the tune of $800. They said to drive it to get some fuel and warm it up to see if it clears out. It didn't. We went back to the KOA and got another week of time.

After talking to several people it was decided that the first step would be to replace the injectors. I got a set off of eBay and had them overnighted. Took me about 2 days to get them installed properly (learning all the tricks along the way, ugh) and after going to Cummins to get the correct O-Rings (the ones that came were so thing it blew combustion by). Got those in today and the MH runs better, but not good. Which brings me to my current predicament.

It idles poorly, but it does idle on its own. Revving it up a bit (@1k) smooths out some. We took it on about a 5-mile road test. On the road, anything around 1500 RPM just runs awful like its only hitting on a few cylinders. Down-shifting and bringing it up over 2k smooths out considerably and I was even able to get up to speed. It does spew black smoke pretty good, but it's always done that under load. When we jumped off the 10 to turn around we let it idle a bit at the stop light and when we took off there was a literally cloud of black smoke behind us. Almost bad enough to not be able to see the cars behind us. Back on the freeway and left it in 4 and it did pretty good. Got back to the park and no real change; it still idles awful. The white smoke is completely gone now, save for a bit when you have the bed up while it is running and blip the throttle. Some smoke comes out of the exhaust side in the middle of the motor, I'm guessing (hoping) I have a leak.

Before I spend more money, does anyone have any idea where I should go next? I thought perhaps the lift pump first since it is cheap-ish, but apparently the lift pump only engages when you start the motor to get it going. I could certainly be wrong.

If it needs an injection pump I'm not sure what I am going to do. The only ones I could find with the Cummins-referenced part number are @$5k (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cummins-FUE...itleDesc=0%7C0) or the "new" part number @$13k (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cummins-PUM...sid=m570.l1313). If we were anywhere near home I would just take it there any park it to figure out what to do, but we are about 600 miles and 3 significant hill-climbs away from friendly territory.

Before I did any major parts removal, I would remove the EBay injectors and have them checked by a reputable diesel pump/injector shop so you can eliminate that as a possible cause.

mackwrench · 07-22-2018, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanp

That process seems like an excellent idea. I can run over to Cummins first thing in the AM and get another set of fuel filters. Should I put some diesel in them to prime them, or is it not necessary? I can grab a small fuel canister at Walmart tonight to get that done.

Your post does give me hope because it is running better and better. We had to move it a few hundred feet to a different space at the park and the idle was much smoother along with it under load. Got it up to 1500 RPM in first and didn't notice the stutter from before, so who knows. Maybe I did get lucky after all.

Add clean fuel to replacment filters. Sometimes these mechanical engines can be difficult to re-prime.
One you change them, a few seconds after engine starts, hold it about 1/2 throttle to clear air form system.

I'm optimistic that it'll be ok....my experience is that if the gas damaged the injection pump, it wouldn't run at all.

The eBay injectors maybe issue/maybe not but If you end up with a engine miss, you could try and reinstall one of the old injectors...but my $.02 is run it at fast idle with known clean fuel. I've also seen "drained" fuel tanks that still hold a gallon or more of fuel. (Or gas in your situation)
It should need a minimum of 10 or so gallons of clean fuel..... remember the return line had returned gas back to tank as well.

New filters, clean fuel, run at 12/1400 for a while.....
Good luck and post your results!

BTW....the exhaust leak is a all together different issue. I'd bet you have a cracked exhaust manifold, very common of this era of 8.3 ......
Peace

Unplanned Tourist · 07-22-2018, 07:57 PM

Listen to Mackwrench, he is spot on.

I worked on HD trucks for 40 years, and the info he is giving you is very good.
Give it a few hours of running time or driving time before you get carried away changing parts.
Happy Glamping.

seanp · 07-22-2018, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRex45

Before I did any major parts removal, I would remove the EBay injectors and have them checked by a reputable diesel pump/injector shop so you can eliminate that as a possible cause.

This is also a good idea. Found a place online that I can mail them to. Not able to immediately find anywhere local that can do it.

seanp · 07-22-2018, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mackwrench

Add clean fuel to replacment filters. Sometimes these mechanical engines can be difficult to re-prime.
One you change them, a few seconds after engine starts, hold it about 1/2 throttle to clear air form system.

I'm optimistic that it'll be ok....my experience is that if the gas damaged the injection pump, it wouldn't run at all.

The eBay injectors maybe issue/maybe not but If you end up with a engine miss, you could try and reinstall one of the old injectors...but my $.02 is run it at fast idle with known clean fuel. I've also seen "drained" fuel tanks that still hold a gallon or more of fuel. (Or gas in your situation)
It should need a minimum of 10 or so gallons of clean fuel..... remember the return line had returned gas back to tank as well.

New filters, clean fuel, run at 12/1400 for a while.....
Good luck and post your results!

BTW....the exhaust leak is a all together different issue. I'd bet you have a cracked exhaust manifold, very common of this era of 8.3 ......
Peace

That sounds like a plan! I'll grab those new filters in the AM along with some diesel and we'll see what happens. Thanks for the advice, definitely making me feel better about life.

From what I can see the exhaust leak may be where the turbo meets the manifold. Its white right at that junction, so that may be the culprit. The intake side of the turbo appears to be covered in soot as well, sounds plausible.

Unplanned Tourist · 07-22-2018, 08:28 PM

I'll bet that leak closes up as soon as you reach operating temp. Known as a "cold leak" in the industry.
That's if there is no great amount of black soot built up around it.

No Sweat · 07-22-2018, 09:21 PM

try spraying some water on the exhaust manifold when first starting your motor. Just with a quart spray bottle. The ones that don't turn to steam aren't firing. Or if you have a infrared temp gun, dead cylinders won't be hot !!

seanp · 07-22-2018, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by No Sweat

try spraying some water on the exhaust manifold when first starting your motor. Just with a quart spray bottle. The ones that don't turn to steam aren't firing. Or if you have a infrared temp gun, dead cylinders won't be hot !!

So just fire it up and then squirt then so the heat can't spread out? I'll give that a shot. Also, the temp gun idea is great; I've been meaning to buy one of those anyway!