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Old 10-23-2010, 06:13 PM   #15
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Memory serves that a good analysis will give many levels of contamination including acids. Acids in used oil will eat the metal in a stored engine, that is why some engine makers suggest draining oil completely before storage. This would be hard for many RVers, next best would be change oil before storage. Changing just filters is good because they remove cabon and impurities, which wear your engine. I change the oil in my Cummings every 5000 miles or less, but I do all my maintenance myself so it's about $60 a change with Rotella and Wix filters. I use my MH all year so it rarely sits more than a couple weeks. Many big diesels (EMD train engines and ship engines) are painted inside to reduce corrosion and are equipped with oil centrifuges to extend oil life. Impossible things to due on the size of diesel used in MHs.
Just my two cents.
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Old 10-23-2010, 06:43 PM   #16
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Clonetrooper,

Based on the posts I've read on this thread, it sounds like you may be changing your oil too often. Or, at least, should do the analysis before doing so. Of course, you didn't say which cummings engine you have and therefore may have the need to change it more frequently.

I'm thinking of using the oil analysis since we put 10 -12 K miles each year on our coach.

Am I missing something here?

Dave
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Old 10-23-2010, 06:46 PM   #17
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I just went and got my oil analysis out of the MH. I read the explanations on the back and to my surprise my Total Base Number was 10.6, according to the info on the sheet I have a TBN of below 3 should require an oil change. My Oxidation value was at less then 2.0, values of 25 or more suggests a need for an oil change.

Bottom line, unless I'm wrong, (sometimes I am) it appears that I could have only changed filters at this time based on my engine oil analysis.
What say you folks in the know??

And where do I get the on/off plug.
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Old 10-23-2010, 07:16 PM   #18
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oil change

google rv engines cummins and catepillar diesel. i have a 350 cat and i go strictly by the mfg. recommendations. when i change oil and filter, i change the fuel filter also. the air filter has a monitor as to when to change. i have no idea what a cat 350 engine costs, and i have xtraride and i definitely want to be in line if something happens. good piece of mind also.

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Old 10-23-2010, 07:26 PM   #19
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Have another question;
What's the proper way to take an oil sample, with a long tube down the dip stick hole and pump it off the top or from the drain valve on the oil pan taking it from the bottom.

Cold or operating Temp??
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Old 10-23-2010, 07:33 PM   #20
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Hey Dave.

You're not missing anything. I have the 5.9 Cummings with 70k on it in my 38' Discovery and since I change the oil myself the 60 dollars and 1 hour is worth giving me that old warm fuzzy feeling that this PM is well taken care of. I don't use synthetic, and have always changed the oil in trucks and cars at 5000. I tow a full size SUV on a Langrebe dolly and tend to drive my MH a little hard at times. Still work full time and take my kids on trips so it's hard to poke along, maybe someday. I avg 12 mpg towing according to VMSpc. I also prelube engine before use by unplugging fuel pump relay, turning engine over a few times and then starting. It was hard working getting a diesel rig, DW wanted gas but I had no problems on recent 6000+ mile trip. I am sure I would be fine going 10 to 15k but someday when I get my north of the price equator MH I can give this one to my son, and he can drive it the other 250k+. If I had to store my MH all winter I would run engine every few weeks to get moisture out.
Just my two cents.

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Old 10-23-2010, 07:45 PM   #21
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If I was taking a sample I would warm engine up and take it off the dip stick tube. Its's easier. Most of the sample kits I have used have a long tube with squeeze pump. You want a sample of the oil that is going thru the engine. Getting it off the bottom would probably be ok to me but there could be more stuff there if the bottom of the pan was not clean or oil not mixed up well enough, might give you false readings. I have seen pan bottoms that were spotless and others with a few layers of crud.

Once again just my 2 cents.

KC
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Old 10-23-2010, 11:13 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtjoe View Post
I just went and got my oil analysis out of the MH. I read the explanations on the back and to my surprise my Total Base Number was 10.6, according to the info on the sheet I have a TBN of below 3 should require an oil change. My Oxidation value was at less then 2.0, values of 25 or more suggests a need for an oil change.

Bottom line, unless I'm wrong, (sometimes I am) it appears that I could have only changed filters at this time based on my engine oil analysis.
What say you folks in the know??

And where do I get the on/off plug.
http://www.qwikvalve.com/home.php

What oil filter are you using? I hope not NAPA. Use Donaldson or CAT. JMHO.

Grab Samples, CAT takes mine thru the oil pan fill. I take it from the pan using the Fumoto Drain valve. I wait for the temp to be at least 150 degrees. Drain out about half a quart then fill the sample bottle.
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:20 AM   #23
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My ISL uses 7 gallons of oil to change, about $80 at the store. If I change the filter only, I still use almost a gallon of oil, so I save about $70 by gambling and skipping a year. And if I get an oil analysis done, it adds about $25 + postage to my annual cost, so now I saved only $45 by skipping an oil change. I just don't see much justification for taking the risk.

Changing oil is good for your engine's health.
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:23 AM   #24
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Quote:
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QWIK VALVE: ENGINE OIL DRAIN VALVE MADE BY FUMOTO: THE BEST WAY TO CHANGE THE OIL QUICKLY AND EASILY!

What oil filter are you using? I hope not NAPA. Use Donaldson or CAT. JMHO.

Grab Samples, CAT takes mine thru the oil pan fill. I take it from the pan using the Fumoto Drain valve. I wait for the temp to be at least 150 degrees. Drain out about half a quart then fill the sample bottle.
Just curious as to why not use a NAPA filter?
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Old 10-24-2010, 12:03 PM   #25
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Just curious as to why not use a NAPA filter?

On my CAT 3126 I use a Fleetline filter for the primary and a CAT for the secondary. The primary is 10 micron, so less critical. The secondary is 2 micron and I just feel more comfortable using a CAT filter that is guaranteed to be 2 micron.
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Old 10-24-2010, 12:26 PM   #26
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Just curious as to why not use a NAPA filter?
Take one apart. Not impressed. They do filter but so does a roll of toilet paper.

I have found the Donaldson to be a quality filter. I started using them about nine years ago and like I said I have never failed an engine oil analysis. I am not sure NAPA can make the same claim.

On my next oil change I will be switching to CAT. Why? Not sure.

The CAT repairs shop and a long distance driver convince me that I should switch.

CAT makes their own filter. They do not have another filter mfg. make their filters. So this tells me, that CAT must be doing something that the other filter companies will not do.

Donaldson also makes their own filter, not sure NAPA can make the same claim.

Anyway I will make the switch, this December, and I will know next December if there is a big difference between the two.

RvRoamer, even thought I change my oil every two years, my average cost is $122.00 per year. This includes the analysis, oil and filter.
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:06 PM   #27
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Okay, for arguments sake let's say that the engine manufacturer recommends changing the oil at 10,000 miles. Two owners each travel 5000 miles a year. Owner A drives his unit and never stores it, and owner B stores his for four months per year for the winter. Why is the oil different in the stored unit such that it needs to be changed annually? Won't they both have the same contaminants at the same time? Won't those contaminants be working on both engines whether stored or not? Do the manufacturers change their recommendation if a unit is stored as above? I haven't seen that. BTW what's the rationale for changing the filter annually? Okay, Ready . . Aim . . . Fire . . .
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:06 PM   #28
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If you are out of warranty you can change oil and filters whenever you feel comfortable. I have a Cat and they specify 15,000 or once per year. I follow this PM and when I am out of warranty will continue to follow with at least yearly oil and filter changes. It is just cheap insurance and good PM for a long life engine. A diesel puts a lot of soot an acids into the oil and I would not want to have it sitting in storage with dirty oil.
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