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Old 10-30-2013, 08:46 AM   #1
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draining hot water tank

Is there a seperate valve for draining the hot water tank? I have the main big plastic valve to drain the fresh water tank, then the blue and red small low water drain tubes. Not sure if there is a way to drain the hot water tank seperately or if I open all three of these will it drain that too. Likewise, if I hook my air compressor up to the fresh water fill after I have drained everything, will it also blow out the hot water tank? Thanks.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:55 AM   #2
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To drain your hot water tank you need to remove the big nut or plug at the bottom. This is the anode rod and needs to be inspected and replaced if necessary.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:58 AM   #3
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My experience with Fleetwoods is that the hot water tank drain is near the heater. Locate your heater and examine that area and you should see a handle within inches of the bottom of the tank. You should have a heater bypass valve on the water control panel that allows you to either pump air or antifreeze through the rest of the plumbing. I found that on my Fleetwood Revolution that draining the system did not remove all the water from the pump. I did not use antifreeze, just air, so the pump was not well protected. I removed the control panel to access the pump and disconnected both lines to drain it. I believe that heater bypass valve was located on the heater control panel, but is has been a few years since we owned a Revolution. I would not pump antifreeze through the heater. Actually, I don't use the stuff anywhere.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:58 AM   #4
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On mine there is a door on the outside that I open and the plastic plug is visible. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve and the water will flow out.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:00 AM   #5
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On mine there is a door on the outside that I open and the plastic plug is visible. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve and the water will flow out.
On the money!
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:04 AM   #6
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If it is a Suburban heater, there is a large drain plug with an attached anode rod. You will need a 1-1/16" socket and an extension. You may need to put some real muscle onto the wrench or rap on it with a hammer. If it won't budge, rent an impact wrench.

If it is an Atwood heater, there is a smaller, plastic drain plug and no anode. I am not sure what size wrench to use.

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Old 10-30-2013, 09:13 AM   #7
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If it is a Suburban heater, there is a large drain plug with an attached anode rod. You will need a 1-1/16" socket and an extension. You may need to put some real muscle onto the wrench or rap on it with a hammer. If it won't budge, rent an impact wrench.

If it is an Atwood heater, there is a smaller, plastic drain plug and no anode. I am not sure what size wrench to use.

Joel
Hmmm. Never seen a plumber with an impact wrench. Hope you don't need that.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:36 AM   #8
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On mine there is a door on the outside that I open and the plastic plug is visible. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve and the water will flow out.
The water heater tank will NOT drain/empty via the low point or other drains of the fresh water system.

An Atwood LP and LP/electric water heater has plastic plug, (while the Suburbans have a metal plug with an anode rod attached).

To drain the water heater tank, the plug, (or the plug with anode rod), must be removed.
As stated above, remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve and the water will flow out......(of course the city water must be disconnected and the RV water pump must be OFF.

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Old 10-30-2013, 09:55 AM   #9
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(of course the city water must be disconnected and the RV water pump must be OFF.

Mel
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... and of course the water heater must be turned off, and preferably allowed to cool!
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:40 AM   #10
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Thanks alot everyone. It is an Attwood so I'll have to go look for the plastic drain plug.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:26 AM   #11
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Hmmm. Never seen a plumber with an impact wrench. Hope you don't need that.
I guess you've also never seen a totally rusted in drain plug. An impact wrenck is less likely to cause damage than using a long bar for leverage.

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Old 10-30-2013, 01:41 PM   #12
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Thanks alot everyone. It is an Attwood so I'll have to go look for the plastic drain plug.
I heard that we should have a new plug handy as they break.
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Old 10-30-2013, 01:51 PM   #13
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If it is an Atwood heater, there is a smaller, plastic drain plug and no anode. I am not sure what size wrench to use.

Joel
Anyone know what size socket is needed for the Atwood?
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:18 PM   #14
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Anyone know what size socket is needed for the Atwood?
a big one
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