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Old 01-06-2014, 04:24 PM   #1
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Draining the water lines

We are fairly new to RVing. We had our DP out about 100 miles from home last week with water in the tanks and running through the lines. I decided to drain the tanks and the opened the lines just before starting the 100 mile journey back home.... all was open for draining as we drove home and the temp was around 40 degrees with several hills. I quickly tried blowing out the lines when we got home, but no water came out anywhere. My question is.... did all the water drain out enough so I do not need to worry about freezing and pipes busting? It got down to 10 degrees below zero last night and will be 5 below tonight. I am a little bit worried.

Fred & Cindy
South Central Missouri

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Old 01-06-2014, 04:50 PM   #2
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Be sure to get any water that might still be in water-heater out. I always remove plug at the bottom of water heater and release the pop off valve till all the water is out. Hope others will reply and give input.John

John and Nancy 2006 Dolphin Workhorse W22 8.1
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:11 PM   #3
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As long as all of the low point drains were open and the faucets on, you are probably ok but you never know. The only sure way to know is put RV anti freeze (not car) in the lines before the freeze. Since we camp year round in NC, all I do is open the lines and drive home but doesn't mean I won't get in trouble with water left in lines some day. Depending on where it freezes you can sometimes get away with a freeze or 2. I have chosen to live with the risk vs winterizing every trip and so far still knocking on wood (11 yrs). If your temps did not go above freezing from the -10 last night to tonight's -5 you have what you already had so it's too late to worry now but the attempt to blow out the lines with no water resulting is a very good sign.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:12 PM   #4
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Is your propane full? You might want to run the furnace during this cold snap, especially the rear furnace which typically puts heat in the wet bay area (If your coach is set up that way). Agree the water heater needs to be drained. Also put some RV antifreeze in the P traps under sinks and shower drains if you can't keep heat in the coach. Good luck.
Ron in NW Oregon
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Old 01-07-2014, 10:19 AM   #5
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If your water lines are PEX, you should have no problem. On the North Shore of Alaska, they use PEX and just open the drains and taps, and go about their way.

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Old 01-07-2014, 10:52 AM   #6
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To be safe you need to winterize the rv. Google that and you will get info on how to winterize. Also ck your manual or call MFGR to email you directions on how to do it!
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:51 PM   #7
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Did the icemaker line and solenoid get drained? On my coach, I have to remove the fittings on the line to get it to drain.

Fred & Vicki
Richmond Hill, Ga
2000 H.R.Endeavor/Freightliner/330 Cat
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:52 AM   #8
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If you blew and no water came out.. Epically after a 100 mile (2 hour) drive, Odds are there is nothing in those lines to freeze.

And as others have mentioned... Though people are always yammering abou the small amount of water that may still be clinging to the walls setteling in a low spot and freezing, If the low point drains are open then that low spot WILL be in the middle of a run of PEX.

And PEX can be frozen without damage as it turns out, IN fact I tested that theory recently, twice, and a professional recorded a You Tube video about it he tested it better.

What breaks when it freezes is the fittings, (Elbows, Ts, Connectors) and in my rig those are well heated.. The PEX between the two sides, not so well (Though it is in the same compartment there is not enough movement of air and they are on an outside wall).

So I had a line freeze, and thaw, no damage.

But I don't think you have anything to freeze, the fresh water sysem in your coach is thus winterized, Finish the job with pink stuff in drains and traps and rest assured.
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:34 PM   #9
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From what I see posted here, I may be good to go. Won't know for sure until I put water back into the lines with pressure. Rarely does it get in the single digits here and hardly ever below zero. I really appreciate all your responses and advice.

Fred & Cindy Cook
South Central Missouri
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:44 PM   #10
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Next time to travel or put to bed read this link has most situations.
Its in a stickies at the top of this forum, most stickies have some good information like the three links in my signature below.
98KSCA, 99MACA, 03 KSCA-3740- 8.1 Chev-- ALLISON Trans, now in good hands
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:02 PM   #11
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I have done it both ways, just air and anti.. It will take the same amount of time to do it both ways. The big point is with anti. only costing at the most is $10.00 at the beginning of season or $7.00 at end, it is the best insurance and peace of mind you can buy. Also if you do not have a filer on your air line there is a good possibility that you will get oil or dirty air which could lead to mold and a bad taste.

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