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Old 01-23-2012, 12:21 PM   #1
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Drive Axle Hub/Disc Brakes w/Pics

Drive Axle Hub/Disc Brakes w/Pics

Have you ever wondered what the internals of a drive axle hub looks like? We recently did a brake job on the Rockwell Intl drive axle of our 2000 Monaco Signature. The drive axle has Meritor ABS air disc brakes.

Don't forget to block the front wheels, We had the air system at normal operating pressure, and eventually released the parking brake to get the rotors off and to set bearing end play.

The hub is bolted to the rotor by the same studs that hold the wheels on. The axle is bolted to the hub w/8 studs and nuts. When the 8 nuts are removed the axle easily slides out. Be ready to catch some gear oil. Or, if you haven't already done it, this is a good time to drain the old gear oil and install new. The hub and rotor combined weigh over 100 lbs so be prepared(stong back(s) and/or floor jack). We had the rotors turned($30ea) and the machine shop wanted the setup intact to turn them. The calipers float on two pins. The photos don't show this(sorry), but to get the rotor/hub off, the caliper was rotated out of the way around its lower float pin by removing the upper float pin. The MH has to be off the ground high enough so the the air camber doesn't hit the ground before the caliper/pads are clear of the rotor. While the upper pin was out we cleaned and lubed it and the bushings it slides into. Later, while we were putting everything back together and had put the upper pin back in, we removed and serviced the lower pin too. We installed new oil seals, Natl#370003A at $34ea., Disc brake pad(4) kit, Meritor#KIT15625PM-$262.

Set the parking brake when done.

Here are some links for adjusting wheel bearings
http://www.timken.com/en-us/solutions/automotive/aftermarket/heavyduty/techtips/Documents/Vol1No5.pdf
or
http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16779&d=1325546926




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Old 01-23-2012, 02:56 PM   #2
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So did you check them with a dial indicator before you loosened the bearings? How close to tolerance were they? Make sure you keep topping up of differential oil while the oil is warm to get it too the top. If it is not to the bottom of the filler thread hole the bearings cannot get oil. The level will drop after you drive it and fill the hubs back up. My rear axle came from Monaco with Pennzoil Gear Plus Super-EW 75W-90 Synethetic GL-5 in it. Good for 250,000 miles. Can't get that so I topped it up with Mobil 1 75W-90 Synthetic GL-5. It sure looks like you are having fun.

How worn were the brake pads? Do you have a Jake brake?
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
So did you check them with a dial indicator before you loosened the bearings?
Yes, they were within specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
Make sure you keep topping up of differential oil while the oil is warm to get it too the top.
Thanks for the tip

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Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
It sure looks like you are having fun.
Retirement is busy, but fun

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Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
How worn were the brake pads?
Min limits, previous owner(s) probably over greased the calipers and did it incorrectly at that. That's my guess?

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Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
Do you have a Jake brake?
Yes, Hi and Low, works great.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:13 PM   #4
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Nice picts, just did the Rear axle on mine, along with one rotor replaced (caliper hung up outside pad got metal to metal) , and replaced the pads on the front, lubed the calipers per Meritors Maint manual same set up as yours. Did it by myself took a Saturday and Sunday, and it sure was not fun. Meritor called for 80-140 syn gear lube, also had to replace 2 caliper mounting pins as the plateing was flaking off.
Once you do the first one, other than everything is heavy it's not to bad.
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