Dropping hydraulic jacks with manual switches

[cm2785]

Hey guys I am sleeping in my rig tonight at my parents house for the holiday and I am only using the jacks on the passenger side to level out... I’m just wondering, I always feel weird dropping each jack at a time because i feel like I am twisting the frame going front to back and front to back... is that really not a good idea on a rig? How else would I do it? Maybe it’s just my OCD. Thanks guys!

[rcflyer1201]

Originally Posted by cm2785

Hey guys I am sleeping in my rig tonight at my parents house for the holiday and I am only using the jacks on the passenger side to level out... I’m just wondering, I always feel weird dropping each jack at a time because i feel like I am twisting the frame going front to back and front to back... is that really not a good idea on a rig? How else would I do it? Maybe it’s just my OCD. Thanks guys!

Jacks don’t normally go down 1 at a time. You could drop the others to stabilize.

[cm2785]

This has four switches One for each jack and actually I’ve seen quite a few like that.

[AccessMaster]

I always manually adjust my jacks since the automatic manual adjustment quit working.
I try to always move two jacks at the same time. My panel is set up so I can activate any combination at the same time. Either fronts, rears or sides.

I cracked my windshield (I think) when I just sent the front left corner up by itself.

Good Luck.

[vsheetz]

HWH jacks only work in pairs (side, front, rear) to try to avoid excessive twisting.

I use a torpedo level on the floor up front and towards the rear so as to see if any twist exists.

[cm2785]

Originally Posted by vsheetz

HWH jacks only work in pairs (side, front, rear) to try to avoid excessive twisting.

I use a torpedo level on the floor up front and towards the rear so as to see if any twist exists.

How can I tell if there is twisting? For example.. my rig is level right now with the drivers sides jacks up and the rear pass down an inch farther than the front passenger... I try to go One at a time just a little bit but I’ll try to see if I can use both switches at the same time.

[cm2785]

Theoretically because I’m only using one side wouldn’t the suspension take up the slack instead of twisting the frame? However i should probably learn how to do this correctly when on all Four jacks.

[vsheetz]

Originally Posted by cm2785

How can I tell if there is twisting? For example.. my rig is level right now with the drivers sides jacks up and the rear pass down an inch farther than the front passenger... I try to go One at a time just a little bit but I’ll try to see if I can use both switches at the same time.

If the level when up front shows the passenger side high, and when in the rear it shows the drivers side is high - twisted...

[FIRE UP]

Well Sir,

Unless I missed it, in all these responses here, you've not said what make/model/year coach, with, what make/model of leveling system you have. For all we know, you have a coach that's 20 years old and, DOES have independent controls for each jack. If that's the case, then you have to do what you have to do. And that is, lower one jack at a time but, DO NOT raise the coach very much at a time, with singular jack use.

That is, you raise one corner just a bit, then the opposite corner on the same side, just a bit, then back to the other one, then, back to the other one. See what I'm getting at? You can do it this way if your jack system is designed in such a manor that there are four switches for four jacks. And, when it comes to lower the coach, back to the driving status, then you lower it in the SAME EXACT MANOR. Little by little, back and forth, the one side is lowered. That way you don't tweak the frame/box too much.
Scott

[tderonne]

Profile says 1996 Bounder.

Milwaukee Cylinder system?

Maybe this will help

[Loren Rice]

In my previous motor home I used to manually extend my jacks in this manor. First I would extend each jack till each one just touched the ground. then depending which way I was out of level I would cause two jacks to extend together. So if the front was low I'd extend both front jacks together. if side to side then two side jacks on the low side. by extending one jack at a time if one side of the front was a little lower than the other both jacks would be touching the ground and were ready to rise the coach equally .
One benefit of doing it this way is you don't rise you mh as high as in an auto mode. I found if in auto mode that I couldn't quite get level I'd have the system retract and then use the above manual method. One caution when a jack reaches its limit because it is in a lower spot then the other jack - you have reached the limit and must stop lifting, because then you start to introduce twist.
worked for me but I can understand that this method may not be for everyone.

[ThePowells]

Yours should lower your jacks in pairs and not singly. Lots of ways to acquire level from simple bubble levels, to leveling apps, carpenters levels, laser levels, and Levelmate Pro. Best practice is have all four in contact.
Your coach & chassis has to be able to handle a little bit of twist, but getting everything level is best.

[Rossi6998]

Just my personal opinion...

My Lippert leveling system lowers one jack at a time. Once all four jacks are down, the system will automatically level. So, personally, I do not think it is a big deal to lower one jack at a time as you described above (within reason).

Good luck!

[Sweetbriar]

As suggested, raise each jack only a few inches at a time until the coach is where you want it but one procedural change I would recommend is to first lower all four to make ground contact then start to raise the low side. This will prevent half the coach from bouncing on the suspension and stabilize the coach. The chassis frame will always twist, just going down the road it will twist, but your objective is to minimize the amount of movement.

And don't forget, keep at least one of the rear wheels in firm contact with the ground for the parking brake.