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Old 09-13-2013, 02:53 PM   #1
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Dump Valves - R & R

Need a little info from our "more experienced". We have a 2000 Winnebago Adventurer 37G, and it appears that either or both holding tank dump valves need to be replaced. I will replace both due to the looks of things, just because.
Question is, how does one go about exposing them to begin with, and it would then appear to be self-explanatory for R&R.
Has anyone done this? Looks as though the plastic enclosure has to come out. How much of a job is this.
You guys are the best, thanks for any input available.
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Old 09-14-2013, 08:03 AM   #2
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I did my "black" valve a few weeks ago.. I viewed a Youtube video of the replacement first.. do a search on You Tube,, rv repairs,, rv dump valve replacement,, something like that Lots of rv stuff on their. There are just four bolts, then pull out the old and replace, BUT get the two new rubber gaskets in correctly, do not get them folded as you slip in the valve.. Also dump and Rinse the tank first and use the wife's rubber dish washing gloves as you work...
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Old 09-14-2013, 08:31 AM   #3
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Also consider replacing the plastic pull handles, which just thread on, with metal ones available at most rv supply places for a couple of bucks as they will strip out at the most inopportune moment when pulling. Keep the plastic one for spares.
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Old 09-14-2013, 02:50 PM   #4
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I just had to replace a Black Tank cable on my 2000 Adventurer 32V Workhorse Chassis and have also had a leaking Black valve that would fill my drain pipe and cause a mess whenever I went to connect the sewer hose. Went to my local area dealer to see about replacing the Black valve and was told "That will be pretty expensive." so I looked into it myself. I couldn't really see an easy way to remove the white plastic enclosure to access the valves for replacement, so I bought a Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve from Amazon for $20 that attaches to the end of the drain pipe and prevents any leakage from the defective valves from getting into the Dump Station area. I did have to take a Sawzall and expand the hole in the plastic where the sewer hose enters the bottom of the Dump Station as my Drain pipe is offset from the sewer hose hatch by about a foot or so. The Valterra T58 adds a few inches to the end of the Drain pipe and it was a tight fit to attach my Rhino Flex sewer hose to it anyway; now it attaches straight thru to the bottom of the T58 with plenty of clearance and no bends. Will research removing the White Plastic enclosure some more but the T58 may solve any leaking valve issues you have now at a cheap price. Good luck.
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Old 09-14-2013, 04:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joemcgin View Post
I just had to replace a Black Tank cable on my 2000 Adventurer 32V Workhorse Chassis and have also had a leaking Black valve that would fill my drain pipe and cause a mess whenever I went to connect the sewer hose. Went to my local area dealer to see about replacing the Black valve and was told "That will be pretty expensive." so I looked into it myself. I couldn't really see an easy way to remove the white plastic enclosure to access the valves for replacement, so I bought a Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve from Amazon for $20 that attaches to the end of the drain pipe and prevents any leakage from the defective valves from getting into the Dump Station area. I did have to take a Sawzall and expand the hole in the plastic where the sewer hose enters the bottom of the Dump Station as my Drain pipe is offset from the sewer hose hatch by about a foot or so. The Valterra T58 adds a few inches to the end of the Drain pipe and it was a tight fit to attach my Rhino Flex sewer hose to it anyway; now it attaches straight thru to the bottom of the T58 with plenty of clearance and no bends. Will research removing the White Plastic enclosure some more but the T58 may solve any leaking valve issues you have now at a cheap price. Good luck.
My cable operated valves would do the same thing, leaving me with a surprise when I took the cap off. (Embarrassing) I found it seemed to help after I cleaned out and was going to shut the valve was to pull/push it in and out rapidly about 3 times then stop when it's shut. That seemed to fully shut the valve but I'm still nervous when I pull the cap off. I thought the same thing about putting a secondary valve for insurance . Now my mind is made up.
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