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Old 08-23-2015, 12:07 PM   #15
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Sorry for your waste tank initiation, follow the great advice above and the experience will improve considerably. One more piece of advice that I learned here that I practice is when everything is hooked up and you are ready to dump the tanks, pull the gray water valve first (just for a couple seconds) as a test to make sure the connections are good. If you discover a leak, at least it is only gray water and you can correct things before the real poo starts flowing.

Jeff, Catherine and Turner|2008 Damon Outlaw 3611|W24 w/ 8.1L Chevy hauling in the garage 3 quads,2 dirtbikes,1 Rzr900xp & 1 sewing machine based in central AZ
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Old 08-23-2015, 07:26 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by JeffAZ View Post
Sorry for your waste tank initiation, follow the great advice above and the experience will improve considerably. One more piece of advice that I learned here that I practice is when everything is hooked up and you are ready to dump the tanks, pull the gray water valve first (just for a couple seconds) as a test to make sure the connections are good. If you discover a leak, at least it is only gray water and you can correct things before the real poo starts flowing.
This is some great advice. I could have saved myself considerable embarrassment and a nasty mess on several occasions if I had known this a lot sooner.

Jim & Judy & Bella (Black Lab) & Sunny (Retriever)
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Old 08-24-2015, 06:04 AM   #17
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Many Thanks For All Your Advice

Wow, this is great having so many experienced RV'rs comment on my unfortunate situation.

After my total embarassment and humiliation at the Dump station, I did as one of you advised. I took some much needed time and then went slowly to work on my sewer problem. I cleaned and sterilized everything in my water/sewer compartment, note: my wife made me throw away the fresh water and gray water hoses and purchase new ones, ok! I guess its better to be safe than sorry!!

I have a gravity fill fresh water inlet that I decided to use instead of the city/water valves. I believe the valves were locked by the water pump, anyway I was able to successfully fill my fresh water, hooray!!!

My wife and I have a friend that gave us a clear adapter to see what is going on during the dumping and cleaning of the black tank, Thank you so much to Don and Kathy for your assistance. He also showed me a product to add to the black tank that will clean the sensors so that we get accurate data out of the black tank. I love the tips that all of you have given me, and I guarantee you that I will do all the things you suggested before I pull that handle again.

My wife has informed me that she will no longer be my assistant when it comes to dumping, she said " Lets Let Mikeee do it" " Mikeee likes it"".
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Old 08-24-2015, 06:50 AM   #18
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let me assure you that you aren't the first, and, won't be the last with a sewer 'issue'. some are more severe that others, but never a desired problem to have.
I know, I experience this same issue on a new '15 Georgetown gasser that we had for less than a month. Everything was going great, until one trip we started really smelling something we knew was not right...
sure enough, the next stop at our rv park destination it came to me, literally! When I opened the sewer bay door I realized that the black sewer pull connection had broken partially and was 'leaking' that dark stuff! what???!!! ok, like you, I did my best at cleaning up a bad situation, and finally saw what had caused the issue.
In that particular rv model, the manufacturer routes the final sewer connector BELOW the outside of the unit, under the sewer bay. This is fine for when you want to attach your hose and dump, but the issue is that any road items could possibly hit it and either break the piping, or, in our case, something from the road had hit the pipe with such force that the pipe had been 'turned' enough to cause the sewer pull slider unit within the sewer bay to break.(I guess this was the 'weakest link' connection along the sewer piping path)
Never the less, it was not a terribly hard job to replace the 3" slide pull unit, just wish it was in a better situation. : )

Have fun ...
The Turners 2014 Thor Palazzo DP 33.3 35' Bunkhouse
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Old 08-24-2015, 07:12 AM   #19
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Please don't get discouraged with the lifestyle. Seems like you already have a handle on your problems. The lifestyle is way too much fun to let a couple set backs cause you to throw in the towel.
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Old 08-24-2015, 07:24 AM   #20
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There is a better solution to connecting a sewer hose to your RV than the bayonet style coupling. Cam-lock flitting are used on fuel tankers and such where a leak is not permissible. I have a Drainmaster hose with cam-lock fittings, a clear section for observation and an additional valve at outlet for several years now. Not inexpensive but never a leak at coupling.http://drainmaster.com/site/sites/de...818%202015.jpg

Here is a U-Tube video featuring the RV Doctor discussing the Drainmaster system:
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Old 08-24-2015, 07:29 AM   #21
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Our black tank would leak no matter what I did. I first tried putting a third valve & a clear elbow so I could check for leakage before removing the outer cap or opening the black tank valve. Saved some messy situations but did not resolve the leaking.
So, I decided a bandage wasn't the solution. I removed the Valterra gate valve assembly (glued together, but valves bolted on) and after careful cleaning I found the black tank valve had a piece of white "something" that wouldn't let me close the valve all the way shut. Bone, tooth, or plastic?
I did replace the valve (about $14) but could have just got the rubber seal kit for less than $5. Not a single drop leaking now!!
I left the third valve on so I can backflush the black tank with the gray water after first draining the black tank. Works great, less false readings on the sensor/monitor.
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:22 PM   #22
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To the original poster. I am sorry to say that whatever you use to clean your tank sensors is going to be a temporary fix. You might clean them and have them continue to work but read the hundreds of posts on this website about the problem. ( go to search and put in tank sensors) In my opinion the standard sensors are just a bad design. They were installed for years and years but they failed fairly quickly for years and years. We have been using a system for two years now called seelevel SeeLevel Digital Tank Monitoring System. These units are easy to install and mine has worked perfectly for over two years now. In the article they show that they work in two per cent increments i believe there is a model that does that but i think it is quite a bit more expensive. The unit I use is reports in 6 per cent increments. It is a lot better knowing your tank is 30 per cent full or 36 per cent or even 94 percent rather than 1/3 2/3 overflowing The URL I posted has a good explanation of the old system and the new
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:57 PM   #23
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I have a flojet macerator pump and a 1 inch hose that is always sealed I never touch the inside of the hoses it is a closed system just pumps electronically.
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Old 08-24-2015, 05:54 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by PushedAround View Post

That sure is one heck of a way to begin your camping experience. No place to go from here but up! One thing that is a big help is patience. It will all come to you in time, and taking things slow is the RV lifestyle anyway.

As far as your waste problem goes, first throw away your 3" hose and get a 4" one. No more restrictions now. Second, check and make sure that the fitting on the outlet has all of it's tabs so that the hose stays on. Third, make sure that when you close the valve, it is fully closed. If there is ANY stem showing at all, then it is not closed and if pushing harder on it does not work, then there is some waste material in the groove that needs to be cleaned out. The slide valves are very easy to remove, once you have dumped the tank of course (newbie ) and you are already familiar with the odor so... Finally, there should be a cap on the outlet to keep things clean just in case you do have a slight leak from the valve.

And if you are unsure about your connector, post some pictures. We have lots of experts here who love pictures!
I have not seen a 4" waste hose or 4" connections anywhere. The connection at the slide valve is 3" so how does this work? Please explain.
Dennis & Carol
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Old 08-24-2015, 06:25 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post
I have not seen a 4" waste hose or 4" connections anywhere. The connection at the slide valve is 3" so how does this work? Please explain.
Yes you are right. I just picked up on the OP saying that his drain was a 4" line (which is standard for S&B plumbing) and thought that he had a smaller hose.
I checked mine and it is 3" from the drain pipe to the bayonet fitting to the hose. Not sure how his is different then.
Larry & Cheryl Oscar, Louie, Ranger & Henry (our Springers)
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Old 08-24-2015, 07:36 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by FRR2EYW View Post
You might also want to get a short clear section (which I call a poo-view), mount it on the outlet and then use the black cap. I find it very comforting to know that there is only air behind the cap when I remove it. (Yes this is the voice of experience). It also allows you to see when the tank is completely flushed out.
I installed one of those too so the hose wasn't so hard to attach.

But as you say, it's nice to know beforehand if any "stuff" has leaked through the valve - "somehow".


PS - off topic: I always found gloves awkward to use, and always wondered how you get the used gloves on again without contaminating your hands (or even taking them off)?

About seven years ago on another forum (forget the name) somebody suggested filling a squirt bottle with a 50/50 solution of dish soap and 99 percent isopropyl alcohol to clean one's hands.

The isopropyl alcohol (also called isopropanol) is a powerful disinfectant and the soap is a good cleaner.

I go bare hands all the way, and when done I spray the mixture onto my hands and clean them, and dry with a piece of paper towel (the roll is mounted to the inside of the the wet area access door).

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I believe in sharing the road with other drivers; they can have the part behind me.
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Old 08-24-2015, 08:30 PM   #27
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I had trouble connecting the new hose I purchased from Walmart. Tried everything, still leaked. The old hose that came with the motorhome worked fine. Took me a while to realize the fitting were slightly different. Found that nobody had the old style hose. I replaced the whole assembly complete with both valves to the current style. Was about $300 installed, but no more leaks.
1988 34' Executive Industries - Executive Prestige
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Old 08-24-2015, 08:38 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Wdebarmore View Post
Was about $300 installed, but no more leaks.
And THAT is priceless!!

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