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Old 11-07-2014, 10:23 PM   #15
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Northern Tools sell a torque multiplier 3 to 1 so that 150 lb torque wrench we all have will tighten the lug nuts to 450 lbs. It is a quality tool and works well, I bought one and its very easy to use. If you torque with the one from Northern tools, it will be accurate. Costs quite a bit more though.
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Old 11-07-2014, 10:46 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by chuckftboy View Post
Northern Tools sell a torque multiplier 3 to 1 so that 150 lb torque wrench we all have will tighten the lug nuts to 450 lbs. It is a quality tool and works well, I bought one and its very easy to use. If you torque with the one from Northern tools, it will be accurate. Costs quite a bit more though.
I'll say!! $249
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Old 11-08-2014, 12:05 AM   #17
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Now you may remove lug nuts. You said you carry an unmounted spare, did you buy the tools to unmount/mount the tire on the rim?
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Old 11-08-2014, 12:32 AM   #18
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Make that a 2' 3" long bar....for 450ft/lbs.
I think 450 is the std. value that everyone throws around...

Dan
Ours take 500 ft lbs and it's molded into the edge of the nuts.

I have a high quality US made one that lists for over $600 that I traded an unneeded personal protection tool for. I need 153 ft lbs to get 500 with it.
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Old 11-08-2014, 05:56 AM   #19
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Ours take 500 ft lbs and it's molded into the edge of the nuts.

I have a high quality US made one that lists for over $600 that I traded an unneeded personal protection tool for. I need 153 ft lbs to get 500 with it.
Mr-D...I stand corrected...I should have known better than to doubt you.
I just purchased a CDI torque wrench...surprise to actually see how long it is.
Does anyone have a chassis that uses left handed threads on the wheel studs? I have never removed my lug covers on my Freightliner chassis, so not sure.

Since we are all on the topic of bolt torque, here is a very interesting video on the topic. Torque vs. Tension
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:59 AM   #20
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I just use my air compressor and air impact wrench.. Does the job, no skinned knuckles when the wrench slips.
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:04 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by dpinvidic View Post
Make that a 2' 3" long bar....for 450ft/lbs.
I think 450 is the std. value that everyone throws around...

Dan

and no bouncing either.
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:21 AM   #22
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Now you may remove lug nuts. You said you carry an unmounted spare, did you buy the tools to unmount/mount the tire on the rim?
Yes I carry tools to unmounts/ mount tires. including bags of balancing beads.
I have done one inner rear and one front. Rear happen on I-75 drove to a parking lot.

Front was on lot in camp ground I tore stem off rim while airing tires. My Allstate road service would only offer to tow me to a Tire shop, in a few hours. If weather was cold, raining or location dangerous I would let the road service handle it.

What I have not tried, is changing front or outer rear without removing rim from the rv. I think I would need the leverage of standing up. Anybody tried or have seen that done.
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Old 11-08-2014, 08:05 AM   #23
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This thread also discusses the topic.......

How much should I spend for a Torque Multiplier
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Old 11-08-2014, 08:12 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by dpinvidic View Post

Since we are all on the topic of bolt torque, here is a very interesting video on the topic. Torque vs. Tension
Friction is the biggest variable and can have a dramatic effect on the final bolt preload. This was demonstrated in this video pretty well. Since lubrication is not recommended on lug nuts, I typically wire brush the nuts and threads prior to re-installation to get a better preload.

This is one reason ARP wants you to use their lubricant on fasteners that they sell (high performance applications). That way they can better control the bolt preload using a very poor measurement, which is an applied torque value.
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Old 11-08-2014, 04:47 PM   #25
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Now you may remove lug nuts. You said you carry an unmounted spare, did you buy the tools to unmount/mount the tire on the rim?
Don't know about others, but I have the tools in the rig and have used them on occasion.
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