Easy to drive Short, Class A, do they exist?

[georgebonord]

I have a 2003 HR 34' that is no fun to drive. Constantly correcting the steering wheel. And the damn thing rocks and rolls.

For starters, we will try moving the driver's seat closer to the steering wheel.

I've read lots of comments by folks with the same problem. It was so bad they hated their MH and taking trips in it. A lot of people have helped the steering problems by adding a device called Safe-T-Steer which is a steering stabilizer.

I might just add this thing if the change in seat position doesn't help. What the heck --- it's only money.

[Gpanek]

We have a 2006 Itasca Sunova P26, actually 27' long. We have none of the handling issues you describe. We do however, have trouble going over Donner Pass (the Sierras) on route 80 where the truck chains in the winter create ruts in the truck lane. If they are deep enough they play hell with vehicle. I generally have to slow down to around 50 otherwise it starts whipping the RV. Someone told me it had to do with the duallies on the back of our vehicle. Otherwise we love the size of this Class A. Gives us all the room we need and fits easily in most sites. We always dry camp, have yet to hook up in an RV park.

[travelinJ]

A Newmar Canyon Star Class A on the F53 chassis can be a handful. Our new 2018 Canyon Star displayed some very uncomfortable driving characteristics. Instead of trying many incremental steps in solving the issue we opted for a new rear suspension by LiquidSoring LLC and a Safety Plus. These two made all the difference in the world. Vibration has been significantly reduce, sway is very manageable, and the wandering is gone. Also we tow a mid size sedan with a dolly. We are 55" bumper to bumper right at Max combined GVWR.
Typically I drive between 55-60.

Here is a video of the suspension upgrade.

https://youtu.be/lm1o83qVSS8

[BobbyBee]

We have a 1998 Itasca on E450 chassis that wandered badly; had the caster adjusted to the max factory spec (5 or 6*). Made a big difference (driving the same road to our son's house). I also replaced the steering stabilizer; it wasn't leaking but the seals are 20 years old; it seems to help a little but not like the caster adjustment. Tire tread and air pressure can also influence wander.

[snevetsinc]

I have a Thor Palazzo 35', I was experiencing excessive steering until I put on a Safe-T-Plus Steering Stabilizer. It took me 2-3 hrs but it was one of my best investments. I now drive with 1 hand comfortably without all the swaying, especially when passing or being passed by a Semi.

[NeilV]

Unfortunately if you have too much weight loaded behind the rear wheels the only real solution is to redistribute that weight (within the limits of the chassis/axle ratings) closer to the front so that there will be enough weight on the front wheels to allow the coach to track straight.


Tire pressure and alignment can only be set with the coach loaded to the full weight it will be at when your traveling. Too many folks do not bring the coach to the alignment shop fully loaded so that the coach never gets aligned properly. Its no good to set caster for example if you usually have an additional 1,000 lbs of stuff over the rear axle that's not there at the time of the alignment.



Before a proper alignment can be done you have to weigh the coach at all 4 wheels with it loaded fully just like it will be while traveling and that is including passengers, food water, etc. Then you will find if you have too much weight in the back and if you do then you will have to correct that before heading for the alignment shop and afterwards keep the weight distributed the same way without shifting things about.


Tire inflation is not done to match a desired comfort level but to match the load that they will be carrying. Many under inflate their tires for a softer ride without first consulting the tire manufacturers inflation chart shooting handling in the foot.


Bottom line is no amount of suspension do-dads and such are going to solve problems from improper weight distribution and/or under/over inflated tires.


Many manufactures will use the smallest chassis they can on most coaches to help meet a price point. This does not make them bad coaches but will limit to how much stuff you can carry. Many small coaches only have enough weight capacity to fill their belted seat positions with passengers or carry just a driver along with a single passenger along with 500 to 1,000 lbs of stuff. A driver or passenger rating is based on each person weighing in at 150 lbs so if your coach is rated for say 1,500 lbs people and cargo then if you have a 265 lb driver, 180 co-pilot, two 150 lb friends, 50 gallons of fuel and 50 gallons of fresh water you are already 20 lbs over weight at 1,520 lbs plus you have not loaded any food, clothing, personal items or other camping supplies. Note that your 4 people weigh in at 745 lbs which is 145 lbs over the 600 lbs allowed for 4 people. Once over loaded no coach is really going to handle very well.

[m.elliott63]

Originally Posted by mike brez

Not sure this will make any sence but look farther down the road and point the coach don't drive it.

Excellent advise. This is what I said to my wife that made her more comfortable when driving our 33' gasser with 19.5" wheels.

[EdnKat]

Originally Posted by F53Challenge

Hi folks, Hoping to gain from your experience. I have a 2011 Itasca 26P that is just too tiring to drive. Constantly sawing on the steering wheel to stay centered in my lane. Anyone have a coach ~ 30' or less that drives nice? Mine has a bunch of aftermarket suspension items, has been to numerous alignment shops. I rule in the campground with the tight turning radius. My wife and I like the layout and it meets our needs once parked. The view out the front when driving is the best. I have been told my wheel base (158") and weight distribution (front is too light compared to rear) are the contributing issues. Any insight is appreciated.

I drive a Class C, E450 V10 (Some Other Brand) 33', driving it was fulltime steering to keep it between the lines. I installed "Saf-T-Plus Steering Stabilizer" on it, and, voila, problem solved. Check it out on u-tube. It works!

[geerhed]

Hello. All, We wanted a short Class A that could go into the state parks and places where the long rigs can't go so we purchase a preowned pristine 2012 Winnebago Vista 26he. 29K miles in 2017. We purchased it because we hated the quality of the interiors in the new FR3 and Thor Class A's. We absolutely loved the layout and it was great to maneuver while parking.

I drove it home from Des Moines Ia to Nebraska and liked the way it drove. It was a whole different story with our new 2017 Jeep Cherokee in tow to the Albuquerque Balloon Festival on windy highways. It literally scared the hell out of us and blew us off the edge of the highway with about a 6" drop off the road. I thought we were going to lose it. It was a constant fight in the wind and very stressful. I even had the alignment checked in Albuquerque and it was dead on.

When we got home I did the CHP fix (Cheap handling fix) moving the front stabilizer bar from its stock position to the more stiff one. I Also lowered the tire pressure a little. Not wanting to spend another $1000.00 on rear track bars just to see if it would help we sold it.

I think it inherent bad handling in these short wheel base tall Class A's.

Now we have a new 2017 GD 26rl fifth wheel and you can't even tell its back there towing it with out Chevy Silverado 3500 duramax diesel pickup. We still miss the convenience of a Class A.

[bftownes]

Originally Posted by F53Challenge

Hi folks, Hoping to gain from your experience. I have a 2011 Itasca 26P that is just too tiring to drive. Constantly sawing on the steering wheel to stay centered in my lane. Anyone have a coach ~ 30' or less that drives nice? Mine has a bunch of aftermarket suspension items, has been to numerous alignment shops. I rule in the campground with the tight turning radius. My wife and I like the layout and it meets our needs once parked. The view out the front when driving is the best. I have been told my wheel base (158") and weight distribution (front is too light compared to rear) are the contributing issues. Any insight is appreciated.

We downsized from a 40' DP to a 30' Phoenix Cruiser, model 3100, and love the way it handles. Ford E450 chassis. It drives like a pickup truck and eases into campsites.

[rljacobs]

Originally Posted by EdInArk

51% here, and I also drive one handed. The CHF fixed the body roll, and a track bar settled down the tail wag. I've not done anything else.

My wife takes it and leaves me at home quite often, and she says she has no trouble with it either, and lots of our driving is on the crooked roads of Arkansas.

What CHF did you do to combat the body role or side to side motion?

[LongWayToGo]

This was my first thought when I saw the photo; where are the tanks? If in the rear third or quarter keep them low in volume. Regrettable due to that ratio factor mentioned above.

[Floridafran]

We have a 2011 Winnebago Vista 30W. Calculated the ratio and it's .512, which puts us the "dangerous" category. Interestingly, before I read about those numbers, I was going to tell the OP that we love our Vista and suggest he try driving one. We've added nothing to it to improve the handling because we've never found the issues that he mentioned. We've both driven it in all sorts of weather; on roads good, bad, and everything in between; and at whatever speed we felt was right for that particular situation. Maybe we've just been lucky and the statistics will catch up to us one day. I think I will tell him we should start traveling with little water in the tank except in those instances where we'll be dry camping and can't fill up at our destination.

[Isaac-1]

Or maybe it depends on more than a simple to calculate ratio of wheel base to overall length.