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Old 08-04-2011, 10:35 PM   #1
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electrical

i have a 1996 pace arrow vision j home with a 1995 chev chassis. i had the power go out on the 12v, and while i was searching i have a 3st 300 amp in line fuse, that meltaled on me on the house battery side and the other side looks like it goes into the inverter. i ordered another fuse but do not know where to look for a problem before i install the new fuse.
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:38 PM   #2
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Trace and visually inspect the 12 volt wiring/cables connected from the inverter to the batteries. Sounds like there is a direct short to ground, probably a positive wire/cable worn through at frame or body. Find and fix this first before you replace the fuse or the new one will just go poof!
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:34 AM   #3
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If the fuse is melting, as opposed to blowing, I'd look at the fuse socket.. Odds are it's burned or corrorded and not making good contact. If it's a blade fuse then cut a piece of sandpaper into the shape of a blade only longer and see if you can sand it .. I doubt you will succeed but .. Try.
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:18 PM   #4
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Agree - a fuse that melted rather than blew is a sign of a problem with the fuse, usually the socket.
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:38 PM   #5
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When I was working I wood say put a 10 penny nail in place of the fuse and fix what burns up. But I will not say that here as you may cause a fire.
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanabee FTer View Post
Trace and visually inspect the 12 volt wiring/cables connected from the inverter to the batteries. Sounds like there is a direct short to ground, probably a positive wire/cable worn through at frame or body. Find and fix this first before you replace the fuse or the new one will just go poof!

1000.............thanks for all your help in the past and looking forward to the future.............ronspradley
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Old 08-05-2011, 10:09 PM   #7
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Get 12 volt light bulb in a socket with wires. A cargo light or back up light with socket and wires work great. Leave the fuse out. Disconnect the wire from the compnent and cover the end of the wire with electrical tape. Connect the light bulb in place of the fuse. If the light is off the component has shorted interally and will need to be repaired or replaced. If the short is still present the light will come on bright. If the is the case, start tracing the wire, shaking it and moving it around as you go along the wire. If you cannot see the light the whole time, you'll need a helper to watch the light or shake the wires. When the light blinks your close. Keep going until you can make the light go out. You have then found the short. And didn't eat up a hand full of fuses or burn the coach down. I've use this method dozens of times over the years, but I connect a 12 buzzer across the fuse because I usually am working alone. When I heard the buzzer quit I knew I was close to the short. Once you repair the problem make sure the light will not come back on when connected across the fuse. Put your fuse back and your on your way.
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:31 PM   #8
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The fuse that went out is a st3 300amp in line fuse, the fuse did not melt but the in line fuse holder which is plastic melted. the fuse is between the 2 6volt house battery's and the inverter
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:35 PM   #9
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the fuse has 5/16 holes in each end to mount to the fuse holder
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:59 PM   #10
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The fuse that went out is a st3 300amp in line fuse, the fuse did not melt but the in line fuse holder which is plastic melted. the fuse is between the 2 6volt house battery's and the inverter
If it's the fuse holder that melted, that would indicate excessive resistance somewhere in the fused circuit. Could be anything from loose connections, corrosion buildup or undersized cables to the inverter.
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:53 AM   #11
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Close Wannabee.. it indicates excessive resistance IN THE FUSE HOLDER, not in the fused circuit but in the FUSE HOLDER.

As elctricity passes through the high resistance joint (And in this case 0.1 ohm is way too high) heat is generated, that is the heat that melted the fuse holder.

if the high resistance was elsewhere in the circuit

1: the fuse holder would not have melted
2: he fuse would not blow either.

It's a bad fuse holder.

Now that said, there might be a LOW RESISTANCE something down-line, but that should blow the fuse instead of melt the holder.

The ONLY things that will melt the holder are:
1: Bad connection, holder to fuse
2: Bad connection: holder to wire
3: Bad choice of holder (100 amp holder with 300 amp fuse)
4: Bad holder.

In all cases,, Replacing the holder with the proper holder should fix it.

NOTE there is a 5: Fuse to large, but that is covered in 3 above.
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:03 AM   #12
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it has worked good for 70000 miles and then and then it blew. i put a continuity checker on ther cable end and ground out to the frame but did not get any continuity. so now i will crawl under and follow each cable. it is really frustrating when you know nothing about this kind of stuff, but i guess that is how you learn
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