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Old 10-02-2008, 11:02 AM   #1
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We have just traded our Class C for a Class A. When we built our house, we had a 30amp 125 line so we could leave the coach plugged in all of the time. My question now, what do I need for the Class A to stay plugged in when not using it. It is 50amp, but I was told that the house 50amp may not be what I should use. I need to know if it is 220/or 230. Don't want to burn down either one, and/or blow circuits. Thanks ahead of time. I guess if you have an opinion on leaving it plugged in all of the time, I would like to hear it also. Trying to save batteries, but if we get company they can use the motorhome.
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:02 AM   #2
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We have just traded our Class C for a Class A. When we built our house, we had a 30amp 125 line so we could leave the coach plugged in all of the time. My question now, what do I need for the Class A to stay plugged in when not using it. It is 50amp, but I was told that the house 50amp may not be what I should use. I need to know if it is 220/or 230. Don't want to burn down either one, and/or blow circuits. Thanks ahead of time. I guess if you have an opinion on leaving it plugged in all of the time, I would like to hear it also. Trying to save batteries, but if we get company they can use the motorhome.
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:29 AM   #3
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Wow, you did great if you were able to trade your Class C for a Class A. That must be some dealer!

Kidding aside, the only reason you would need 50A is if you were going to run everything on board. If you only want to keep your batteries topped off, and possibly the fridg running, then 30A is more than enough.

If you are going to have guests in the summer where the both A/C units will be run, along with wither (or both) the microwave and a T, then you need the 50A for sure.

We have a 50A plug in the side of the coach, and probably only 5 times in 3 1/2 years have we actually used the 50A - i.e. when we have to run both A/C units. Most of the time we have a 30A-50A adapter, and use a 30A cord. It is much lighter in weight and much easier to use.
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:36 AM   #4
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If you leave it plugged in, be sure and check the water leavel of the batteries monthy get one of these http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index....ROD&ProdID=441to keep the house and starting batteries topped off. If your coach is 50A, you should also buy a reducer which allows you to plug into a 30A box. The reducer has a 50A female on one end and a 30A male on the other.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/heavy-duty...-power-adapters/4134. You need one of these anyway as there will be some CG's that will only have 30A hookups. Try and run the gennie every 4-6 weeks under half load to keep it excersized.
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Old 10-02-2008, 01:13 PM   #5
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As far as your 50 amp goes.. it IS 240 volt...

You have 2, 120V wires, a Neutral wire and a ground wire. Each of the 120V lines is 50amps.

Look at your circuit breakers and you'll see you have 2, 50amp breakers side by side for your main.

To get the 240V you use the 2, 120V lines.
Most motor homes use the second 120V line for the rear air conditioner only. There are some high end RV's that have 240V dryers and would use the 240V.

So from your house.. you'll need 2, 120V lines, each with a 50amp breaker, a Neutral and a ground.

Careful... Black wires can confuse... Most of the time black is ground on the RV... But, Black is HOT in house wiring. Red can also be used for HOT in a 240V setup.
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Old 10-02-2008, 02:04 PM   #6
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Like Blue Ribbon said, 30-amps is probably all you'll need at home. Just get one of those 50Amp to 30Amp cheater cords and run it off your existing 30 Amps.
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Old 10-02-2008, 02:10 PM   #7
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There was a little amount of money involved going to dealer, but we are happy! <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Blue Ribbon:
Wow, you did great if you were able to trade your Class C for a Class A. That must be some dealer!

Kidding aside, the only reason you would need 50A is if you were going to run everything on board. If you only want to keep your batteries topped off, and possibly the fridg running, then 30A is more than enough.

If you are going to have guests in the summer where the both A/C units will be run, along with wither (or both) the microwave and a T, then you need the 50A for sure.

We have a 50A plug in the side of the coach, and probably only 5 times in 3 1/2 years have we actually used the 50A - i.e. when we have to run both A/C units. Most of the time we have a 30A-50A adapter, and use a 30A cord. It is much lighter in weight and much easier to use. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 10-03-2008, 02:30 PM   #8
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Hi Gene,
Newmar does a good job balancing the appliance draw between both the 50A 120V legs. Like previously posted, if you are just keeping everything charged up and a few minor Wattage appliances running, 30A should be fine. If you use the 30A circuit, remember 30A is all you get. On a 50A circuit, you really get 100A (50A on each side of the plug). This means you have only 30% of the amps available on a 50A circuit. With all the appliances in your coach, it doesn't take much to use the 30A.

The appliances that can bite you are the hot water heater and microwave and inverter. Using one or both of those combined with an A/C and your 30A or more ia all used up.

Consider turning off your inverter. My house batteries will last over a month, at full charge, once I turn off the inverter. If this is true for you, it might be possible to not plug in the coach until the batteries begin to show a need to be charged. For the most part, this is what I do. However, my coach rarely sits for a month without use.
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Old 10-03-2008, 04:27 PM   #9
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Thanks for all of the help. I went ahead and hooked up an external 50 amp from my garage to the coach. This way we can keep all of it up and running/charged, but when one of our RV friends stop by for a visit, they can connect and their coach is good to go also. I thought that a connection would be nice whether we use it all the time or not. Besides, it will take the worry out of my winterizing job knowing that it is with some heat inside. Doesn't get that cold here, Tennessee, but freezes.
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Old 10-03-2008, 11:02 PM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Doesn't get that cold here, Tennessee, but freezes </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
It did that last time I was in Lebanon. What's it take for you to call it cold?
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Old 10-04-2008, 05:42 AM   #11
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I'm also installing an outlet at home. Bought it at Home Depot and it has both a 50A and 20A with breakers.

My MH is 50A but my son's is 30A. Am I correct that a MH with 30A can use a 50A outlet, without problem, by using a 50A male/30A female pigtail?
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Old 10-04-2008, 07:43 AM   #12
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Bob, yes. You can get a 50A to 30A pigtail which essentially takes 30A from only one of the hot legs of the 50A/240V circuit. Since you are internally 'fused' at 30A max you will not draw more current than intended for your 30A service.

Remember when hooking up the 50A service that it must be connnected to a double-pole breaker in your home's electrical panel, such that if there is a short on one leg of the circuit, the other will trip as well. It also guarantees that the neutral conductor will cancel out relative to the amperage draw from the 2 hot legs, which must be attached to opposite legs of your home panel.

If they are attached to the same leg of your home panel, via 2 individual 50A single pole breakers, you will have 2X the current draw on the neutral line, which can overheat and cause a fire. A double pole breaker guarantees this will not occur (and is code).
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Old 10-04-2008, 08:04 AM   #13
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Thanks Don!

It will have double-pole breaker protection. In fact there will be a few.

Off my house main 200A there will be a double-pole 100A to a subpanel in one garage which will have a double-pole 60A to subpanel in a 2nd garage which will have have a double-pole 50A to the 50A outlet that has breakers in it. BTW this is being done by an electrician.
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