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catonine · 04-25-2014, 07:28 PM

I have a 2006 Monaco Monarch with the Triton V10. I have been have an electrical problem that has me stumped. When I turn on ignition, all gauges start up as they should and I can start the engine. Then, for no reason I have yet found, all power is lost to engine and all gauges and engine stop working. I can hit the battery boast switch and start things light up and the engine will start. The starting battery is good with a full charge as are the house batteries. When power is lost ALL gauges stop and engine dies if it is running. This seems to happen more early in the morning when humidity is high. If I turn on the ignition and the gauges work, but seem to be vibrating, that is a sure sign that the power will fail. I have tried to check and recheck all electrical connections I can find and all are good. This problem is intermittent and hard to locate. Anyone have any ideas?
John

gemini5362 · 04-25-2014, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by catonine

I have a 2006 Monaco Monarch with the Triton V10. I have been have an electrical problem that has me stumped. When I turn on ignition, all gauges start up as they should and I can start the engine. Then, for no reason I have yet found, all power is lost to engine and all gauges and engine stop working. I can hit the battery boast switch and start things light up and the engine will start. The starting battery is good with a full charge as are the house batteries. When power is lost ALL gauges stop and engine dies if it is running. This seems to happen more early in the morning when humidity is high. If I turn on the ignition and the gauges work, but seem to be vibrating, that is a sure sign that the power will fail. I have tried to check and recheck all electrical connections I can find and all are good. This problem is intermittent and hard to locate. Anyone have any ideas?
John

I am going to bet it is going to be a ground. Try doing this the next time it happens Take a jumper cable and put the end on one black cable to the negative post on the battery put the other end to something metal that is not painted like the alternator bracket. See if that makes a difference. If that does not make a difference find a good ground spot on the firewall and move the end on the alternator to that. Let us know if that helps

Robi.1014 · 04-25-2014, 08:07 PM

I wonder if the headlights also fail when your engine- and gauge- problem occurs. If headlights quit, that might steer my troubleshooting away from the ignition switch as being the problem. If indeed "all power is lost" from the chassis battery, I'd suspect a failing battery cut-off switch. My rig has two cut-off switches: one for the chassis battery; one for the house battery bank.

To trouble shoot?
A volt-meter measuring accorss a good cut-off switch should read only milli-volts (using the 20-volt scale on the meter). But when the failure occurs, the meter will show a full 12 volts. Sometimes these high-amperage switches act weird: They will "resent" when whacked with a small hammer.....or will "reset" when they are agravated in some manner (you exploiting the battery-boost switch, for example).

johnnyreno · 04-25-2014, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gemini5362

I am going to bet it is going to be a ground. Try doing this the next time it happens Take a jumper cable and put the end on one black cable to the negative post on the battery put the other end to something metal that is not painted like the alternator bracket. See if that makes a difference. If that does not make a difference find a good ground spot on the firewall and move the end on the alternator to that. Let us know if that helps

What gemi said, prolly a ground wire on the batts. I always check the simplest first.

catonine · 04-26-2014, 06:36 PM

Thanks for the help. I had this same problem last fall and after following advise of folks on here, I thought I had problem solved. But it has raised its ugly head once again. The problem is intermittent and that makes it very difficult to locate. But I will keep on trying what folks recommend and hope for the best. Thanks to all.

89sandman · 04-26-2014, 08:19 PM

I would trace your power supply from your battery to your fuse block. if you are losing power to everything, the fuseblock is where the power from the battery is distributed from. do you have a engine and chassis disconnect power switch? this should be inline between the fuse block and battery. if its not the disconnect switch killing power to the fuse block it will probably be a faulty connection some where between the battery and the fuse block. a good place to start.

"007" · 04-26-2014, 08:34 PM

Have you checked the ground cables from chassis battery to chassis frame and is the battery ground cable tight a clean on the chassis battery.
I had a loose ground cable on my coach battery when new, the side lug was loose.
You also may have a ground strap braded cable between the motor and chassis frame.
Your ECM is attached in its mounting and wiring harness to it is tight not loose.

catonine · 04-29-2014, 06:49 PM

Thought I would give update on my situation. First, I have followed advise given and checked and recheck connections, grounds and the cutoff switch. I cleaned everything as I went. Since then I have not had the "no power" event to reappear. If the dang thing would just quit and stay quit I could find and fix the problem. But hopefully this has it taken care of . I do appreciate everyone's help. Thanks