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Old 01-13-2015, 11:28 AM   #15
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Troubleshooting 101...power supply first.

Measure voltage at battery first and if above 12.5 good to go.

Next measure while helper tries to start.

If drops below 10 or so bad battery or starter.

If drops little if any then bad starter or starter circuit.

Simple stuff.
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Old 01-13-2015, 01:10 PM   #16
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The "ratcheting noise" is likely the starter bendix not engaging properly, perhaps due to cold weather, age, and/or low amperage.
Every time I have heard that "Ratcheting noise" it was the starter solenoid connecting then disconnecting then connecting then disconnecing as the starter current drew down the battery voltage to the point where the solenoid dropped out.

It indicated either A: Dead battery or B: bad connection.

Every time.

Never had anything at all to do with the bendix gear, and I have replaced easily a dozen bad bendix gears in my day (Used to have a car that ate them so fast I carried a spare with me, got to the point I could change it in 15 minutes or less on the side of the road no hoist needed).
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Old 01-13-2015, 01:14 PM   #17
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To the OP.. My best guess is this.. You replaced the HOUSE batteries,, There is a 2nd battery somewhere, this will be a single 12 volt battery most likely (may be 2 in parallel but likely just one). This is the starter battery and the one that is dead.

BUT WAIT,, First clean the connections and try again.

Then there is a switch on your dash, May say BOOST, AUX, Aux Start or Emer Start (emergency).

Hold it for like 30 seconds, release for 10 seconds, press and hold for 10 seconds and then start the rig.

But I'm guessing you missed the chassis battery when you changed them out.. I can not assist you with it's location since you have a Ford.
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Old 01-13-2015, 06:27 PM   #18
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Deny

All that proves there is circuit continuity back to the battery positive lead and providing sufficient voltage to draw current through the light bulb. It does not PROVE a short. When the light goes out by removing a fuse it confirms continuity circuit back to the battery was provided through that fuse. If one measures less than the battery voltage level at the positive side of the light circuit, then voltage would be dropped across the other loads in series with the bulb.

A circuit diagram with this scenario would be interesting. I suggest if there was a "short" a fuse would blow or wire would melt. A short = near zero resistance.
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Old 01-13-2015, 10:46 PM   #19
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A modern high-z meter will read supply voltage when this test is done...
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:36 AM   #20
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TQ60. Correct. And how is this proving a short? There would be virtually no discernable current with almost any meter on a 12v circuit, hence no voltage drop. Can't see how this is proving a short. A high impedence meter of course even puts less load on the circuit.
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Old 01-14-2015, 06:20 AM   #21
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Deny

All that proves there is circuit continuity back to the battery positive lead and providing sufficient voltage to draw current through the light bulb. It does not PROVE a short. When the light goes out by removing a fuse it confirms continuity circuit back to the battery was provided through that fuse. If one measures less than the battery voltage level at the positive side of the light circuit, then voltage would be dropped across the other loads in series with the bulb.

A circuit diagram with this scenario would be interesting. I suggest if there was a "short" a fuse would blow or wire would melt. A short = near zero resistance.
I admit that "drain" is a better choice of word than "short"

The test light method for finding out what drains a battery "works for me"
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Old 01-14-2015, 06:43 AM   #22
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Yes drain works cool
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Old 01-14-2015, 11:24 AM   #23
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It only indicates a CONNECTION.

Amps will indicate current flow and possible short.

Ohms will indicate resistance but unless pinched wire not much help.

Simple test light often works well.
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Old 01-14-2015, 11:34 AM   #24
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HMMM. Salemans switch does not do anything for chassis batteries. Just house batts. New batteries are not fully charged so need to be. 2007 will have significant phantom loads on the chassis battery because some of the computers never shut off.

FWIW If I could not get 120 VAC to the MH I would look at taking a small generator and battery charger and charging both sets of batteries from an external generator. It will take 4 or 5 hours to run in a good charge. THen see what happens. The starting issue can be the cold plus low battery. Leaving batteries run down in near zero weather can result in freezing and destroying the batteries.
The statement about salesmans switch is in correct. Most fleetwood motorhomes and many others have two switches. one for the chassis and one for the house batteries.
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Old 01-15-2015, 08:25 AM   #25
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Yup

Yes - Short was a poor choice of words - draw or drain on battery is correct. My salesman switch had both start and house battery circuts connected to it - Useless so its bypassed.
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Old 01-16-2015, 11:33 AM   #26
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Yes - Short was a poor choice of words - draw or drain on battery is correct. My salesman switch had both start and house battery circuts connected to it - Useless so its bypassed.
Not useless if it cuts off the batteries when the unit is stored. Unusual as it would take two relays to do that or somebody tied the two battery banks together. That is also a very questionable move.
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:13 PM   #27
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Any word back from the O/P.. as I said, i think he replaced all but ONE battery and because it is in a different place.... Missed it.
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Old 01-17-2015, 07:51 AM   #28
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My rig is never stored so no need for the salesman switch so its not a questionable move as the relays are know problems with the monaco's.
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