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Old 04-21-2017, 08:18 PM   #1
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Electrical Problems

I am new to the forum and also the new owner of a 2003 Coachmen Cross Country. First RV. My electrical system is not working quite as I expected it to.

With shore power connected, all 120v and 12v services work as they should. Likewise, with the generator running, all electrical services work properly.

However....
1) to start the generator, either shore power must be connected or the chassis ignition switch must be in the "ON" position. Once the generator is running, the battery disconnect switch (by the door) will operate to connect the batteries and the ignition switch can be turned to "OFF"

2) with neither shore power or the generator running, the only way I can get 12v power through the coach is to turn the ignition switch to "ON". In this configuration, the battery disconnect switch will connect and disconnect the house power but will not remain on if the ignition switch is turned "OFF"

Chassis batteries (2x12v) are a couple of years old but in good shape. House batteries (2x6v golf cart batteries) are brand new.

Plan for tomorrow is to check the battery to frame ground connections but I would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions that anyone might have.

thanks
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:36 PM   #2
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Welcome to irv2

Welcome Murray!

And congratulation on your 1st RV. I am not the expert on electrical operations but I will give it a shot.

1st make sure the battery disconnect on my Cross Country is located behind the engine compartment door. Turn clockwise to the ON position.

2nd when you enter the coach on mine the Coach battery switch that just toggles, push it down a click and release. On mine a light comes on indicated power is applied. I have seen other coaches where there is no light indicator.

There is also a really small pop out fuse I think mine is in the forward battery compartment. Look at the wiring harnesses and follow them to the small rectangular shaped fuse. I think mine has a very small white tab that popped out once when I had a wet short with my inverter. (I drove all day in the rain and compartment door was not tight)

I just pushed it back in and walla, problem resolved. Besides that, check all other breakers are not tripped. Lastly, I would check out the fuse panel in first compartment drivers side.

Let us know how it's going. Again, welcome!!! James
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:50 PM   #3
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Thanks James

Chassis battery isolator (engine compartment) is in the "on" position. The light on the panel just inside the door works as you suggest - with shore power on, the light is on and cannot be turned off with the switch. With the generator on, the battery isolate switch functions - if the light is "on", the ignition switch can be turned "off". If the light is not "on" and the ignition switch is turned off, the generator shuts down. If the light is "on" and the ignition switch turned "off", the generator continues to run but, if the battery isolate switch is pressed (turning the light "off") the generator stops.

I will make a point of having a close look at all of the under dash fuses - it is a real wiring nightmare under there and I am concerned that something might have been miswired at some point since new
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:18 PM   #4
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Keep us posted.

Murray,

If I get out to the storage unit I will snap a photo of that pop out link on my Coachman. It popped out and caused me issues until I reset it.

Also the basement, drivers side, forward compartment should be where your fuses are at.

From what you are describing, I am puzzled. Not sure where you picked up the coach, but I would try and also pick the brain of previous owner.

James
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Old 04-23-2017, 01:17 AM   #5
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I am new to this forum. I recently purchased a 1996 Monterey Beaver and have really enjoyed it. But recently I had my batteries stolen while in storage and I have had to purchase 6 new batteries. The problem is I have two white wires that I am not sure if they should be connected to the negative or positive on the chasis batteries. The ignition will not turn on with them disconnected I believe.I don't want to connect them wrong. On the house batteries, I only have one wire I am puzzled with. The red one is simple, and the ground to the chasis is good. But I have another black wire that seems to not have continuity. Should I attach that one to the positive also?
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Old 04-23-2017, 01:42 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jophus View Post
I am new to this forum. I recently purchased a 1996 Monterey Beaver and have really enjoyed it. But recently I had my batteries stolen while in storage and I have had to purchase 6 new batteries. The problem is I have two white wires that I am not sure if they should be connected to the negative or positive on the chasis batteries. The ignition will not turn on with them disconnected I believe.I don't want to connect them wrong. On the house batteries, I only have one wire I am puzzled with. The red one is simple, and the ground to the chasis is good. But I have another black wire that seems to not have continuity. Should I attach that one to the positive also?
jophus; Welcome to iRV2 .

Sorry you're here with problems .
When posting it's always best to start your own new post if your problem isn't exactly the same as that of the original member. Many people only read the first post before responding and other problems, like yours, get over looked.
Your checking for continuity to ground and that's good , before you connect any of the wires , make up a piece of wire with a 20 amp fuse holder and connect it from the battery + to the wire in question , if the fuse blows it's not a power wire . If the fuse doesn't blow try turning the key on to see if things power up.
If you need any more help , I'd say to re-post in the " Owners " forums , " Monaco Owners " maybe someone with the same unit can post a picture of their wiring set up to help you.
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Old 05-19-2017, 09:18 AM   #7
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Found the problem

After about 12 hours of crawling around under the bus with a voltmeter, I found an inline 175 amp megafuse between the house batteries and the latching solenoid that was blown. $12 for a new fuse and 10 minutes to install and everything is working exactly as it should.
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Old 05-19-2017, 10:47 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by MurrayO View Post
After about 12 hours of crawling around under the bus with a voltmeter, I found an inline 175 amp megafuse between the house batteries and the latching solenoid that was blown. $12 for a new fuse and 10 minutes to install and everything is working exactly as it should.
Thanks for posting that you've found and fixed your problem.

I believe that the mega fuse is a wiring code requirement , in any cable; over 3' in length; except the starter feed . I have 2, one for coach , one for chassis , in the cables that run from the batteries, pass side behind the duals to the front of the coach.
WHY many CHASSIS/RV manufacturers, decide they have to be hidden , is anybody's guess.
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Old 09-29-2017, 06:56 AM   #9
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I have a 1995 Overland. Was using my deep fryer and oven at same time tripped a breaker or so I thought but all breakers were fine, it is usually a fast fix. All my 110 is not working on whole bus. Checked and replaced all the fuses, does anyone know my next step? I can hear the inverter running.
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Old 09-29-2017, 09:27 AM   #10
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Congrats on the new rig! Hopefully someone familiar with that coach can help you with this. Keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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