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Old 08-30-2013, 08:05 PM   #15
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I would strongly recommend you run a 50 amp service out. I've been in the electrical field for 10 years and depending on the breaker location it could get ugly. For example if there is no secondary breaker at the rv plug you could melt down you feed. Basically the further your breaker is from the coach the more unreliable it becomes. Also depending on your distance from you source there will be a voltage drop that needs to be calculated. Long story short spend a few extra dollars and save your coaches electrical system.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:15 PM   #16
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If you do not have any other alternative, you could install a 4 KVA transformer and step the 240 down to 120 volts to power your 30 amp receptacle. Of course you should either fuse or breaker both sides of the transformer. Do not just tap one leg of the pump circuit as this will cause an unbalanced load (assuming that you do have a neutral there), and best case would trip the breaker on overload.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:32 PM   #17
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Just FYI Here is another read of a similar subject
Another "dryer plug" nightmare
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:42 PM   #18
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power

my pump is 120 but some electricians just do new work,showed one empty breakers but he just hooked into other garage circuits, not good on tools did't understand amperage draws.he was just an apprentice and did it over
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:42 PM   #19
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Just FYI Here is another read of a similar subject
Another "dryer plug" nightmare
I read that thread after I posted this one. We will have a talk with the electrician before an additional work is done.
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:09 PM   #20
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I am going to offer a solution and a different problem. When lightning strikes the ground near a well pump the lightning has been known to liberate a few electrons in the house AC power through the pump wiring. You might have an issue with lightning and the wiring on your RV.

I made as close to forgetful proof system as I could make for an emergency hook up for my generator for the stick and brick house. I bought two HVAC disconnect switches they are actually pretty cheap. I have all my critical power running through a seperate Ckt Breaker panel. ( refrigerator, freezer, tv, bedroom/ bathroom lights etc. The power for this Panel goes into one of the quick disconnects, The output side of both quick disconnects goes into the Main breaker on this seperate breaker panel. I have a receptacle that I can plug my generator into that is hooked to the input side of the second disconnect. The disconnect has a connector with a handle that you can pull out to disconnect power. I threw one of the connectors away. Normally the connector is in the 1st quick disconnect and provides power to the breaker panel from my main house power. If we lose power and I have to hook up a generator I plug my generator into the receptacle for the second disconnect and then I move the connector to the second disconnect. This way the panel is only fed by one thing. If power comes back on in the main panel it dos not feed into the generator and if I am running the generator I am not back feeding power into the power lines while someone is working on them.

The reason for this long post is that I think you could do the same thing for your system. Have one disconnect for the pump and the other for the Rv. This way you would never have both on line at the same time.

I also strongly agree with the other posters to make sure your well pump is only 110v most are 220v.
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:19 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by gemini5362 View Post
I am going to offer a solution and a different problem. When lightning strikes the ground near a well pump the lightning has been known to liberate a few electrons in the house AC power through the pump wiring. You might have an issue with lightning and the wiring on your RV.

I made as close to forgetful proof system as I could make for an emergency hook up for my generator for the stick and brick house. I bought two HVAC disconnect switches they are actually pretty cheap. I have all my critical power running through a seperate Ckt Breaker panel. ( refrigerator, freezer, tv, bedroom/ bathroom lights etc. The power for this Panel goes into one of the quick disconnects, The output side of both quick disconnects goes into the Main breaker on this seperate breaker panel. I have a receptacle that I can plug my generator into that is hooked to the input side of the second disconnect. The disconnect has a connector with a handle that you can pull out to disconnect power. I threw one of the connectors away. Normally the connector is in the 1st quick disconnect and provides power to the breaker panel from my main house power. If we lose power and I have to hook up a generator I plug my generator into the receptacle for the second disconnect and then I move the connector to the second disconnect. This way the panel is only fed by one thing. If power comes back on in the main panel it dos not feed into the generator and if I am running the generator I am not back feeding power into the power lines while someone is working on them.

The reason for this long post is that I think you could do the same thing for your system. Have one disconnect for the pump and the other for the Rv. This way you would never have both on line at the same time.

I also strongly agree with the other posters to make sure your well pump is only 110v most are 220v.
thank you for your suggestion. I've decided to ask the electrician read through this and a couple of other threads dealing with wiring. He is a super guy we have know for years and he probably will welcome the knowledge and alternatives.
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:12 PM   #22
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We are finally getting underground power to my RVport (new word not a garage more like a carport). A licensed electrician is doing the work, BUT he is the first to tell you he know nothing about RVs. He purchased the receptacle through a RV source. After reading some of the threads I made sure it was correct for a motorhome. We are going to use the 30amp service that services our well. The electrician will tie into the 30 amp line prior to the well so the RV will have continuous service as the well is only live when the tank needs filling. (I hope I’ve explained that correctly) We would prefer to run a separate 30 or 50 amp line but due to other structures and constraints it is not possible without tremendous cost.



My question: The RV will be set like it is at many campgrounds for the 30 amp service. There will be very limited use of power in the RV but when we do use it ….If the basement HVAC is on and the well comes on…both being on the same 30 amp service is there a chance of damage to the RV or well or will the breaker kick and that is all that will happen?



The electrician thinks the breaker kicking or a dimming of RV interior lights but I want to be sure. The basement AC is a bigger issue than the heat.


Thanks for your expertise on this...
WARNING! DANGER!
Be sure your electrician understands that a 30A "RV receptacle" is 120VAC.

Electricians, (especially licensed electricians who know nothing about RVs), wire 30A RV receptacles incorrectly....to supply 240VAC!

240V can/will destroy inverters, TVs, microwaves, and other 120VAC appliances in your RV immediately when the power cord is connected to an RV.

Here is another option:
If your RV can/does use a 50A cord to "normal 50A campground shore power" receptacle, a "50A rated receptacle" can be wired with 2 30A legs, (which will provide your RV with a total of 60A, 30 on each leg)....
A true 50A receptacle provides 100A, 50A on each leg).

Talk to your electrician he will figure it out.

Mel
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:20 PM   #23
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Is your rv spot next to the well? Please do not allow this guy to piggyback on your well circuit to power your rv. When the ac is running on your rv and the pump starts, you will pop half of the 30 amp breaker. The pump motor may try to run on 120v and burn up. Best to run new 6g wire and a 50 amp 220v breaker to provide your mh with needed current.
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:20 PM   #24
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It is imperative that the Electric Service used for RV’s are wired correctly. DO NOT TRUST anyone, yourself, friends, relatives or ANY Professional Electrician. ALWAYS check out all RV Electric Service BEFORE plugging in the first time. The majority of the mistakes and the most damage to the RV’s are made with the incorrect installation of the 120-volt 30 amp Service. For some reason people including Electricians just DON’T GET IT when it comes to the 30-amp 120-volt Service. All you need to do is look at the online Forums where RV’s were damaged by incorrect installations.
Many times the 30-amp 120-volt Service is confused with the OLD 3 wire 120/240-volt Appliance Service. Even if you purchase the correct TT-30 receptacle it may get wired incorrectly with 2 HOT lines. It is harder to make mistakes with the 50-amp 120/240-volt installation but people do screw things up. As long as all the wires are connected to the correct terminals and everything checks out it will work.
For information on how to test RV Electric Outlets Look at the "OUTLET TESTING" page.

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How many times have we seen "Electricians" smoke RV's on this site? Too many to count.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:02 PM   #25
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To have complete use of the 50 amp service to your Dolphin, the best way to do it is install a sub panel at the well. From your main power panel run either a 60 or 75 amp service to the sub panel, install a 30 amp breaker for the well and 50 amp breaker for the RV in the sub panel. It will cost more, be safer and you will be happy, plus it will meet code.

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Old 09-02-2013, 09:52 PM   #26
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This is a major accident in the making even if the RV outlet is wired correctly.
When the 240 pump is on and the RV also is drawing power to run anything major
one of the hot leads will be over loaded BUT the neutral will be very over loaded
unless the wire size currently feeding the pump is larger than normal.
Without getting into detail it has to do with out of phase draw (pump) and in phase
draw (RV) at the same time on the same feed.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:53 AM   #27
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IF the pump is 120 volt... You might also consider a mod to b both the pump (well it's breaker box) and the RV that would let the generator on the RV run the pump when, (not if) the power company fails you. It can also run a few selected loads in the house.

in both cases make sure you have a proper generator transfer installed on the pump or house.

And note that Mr. Onan's contribution to your comfort is a 120 volt generator, not a 120/240

Do not "Back Feed" make very sure you have a proper transfer system installed.
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:34 AM   #28
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Let me make clear that I was the one that suggested using the well wiring for my RV, not our electrician. With all of the great advice and warnings here plus talking to the electrician we abandoned the Well/RV connection. This weekend my husband found a path through the duct work framing in our terrace level ceiling from the panel box to the opposite side of the house. Hopefully this will work to get correct wiring from the electrical source through the house then underground to the RV port with only sheetrock and paint damage to repair.
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