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Old 09-03-2013, 11:11 AM   #29
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Quote:
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Let me make clear that I was the one that suggested using the well wiring for my RV, not our electrician. With all of the great advice and warnings here plus talking to the electrician we abandoned the Well/RV connection. This weekend my husband found a path through the duct work framing in our terrace level ceiling from the panel box to the opposite side of the house. Hopefully this will work to get correct wiring from the electrical source through the house then underground to the RV port with only sheetrock and paint damage to repair.
LOL I am not sure but can you legally run wiring through ductwork ?
I hope this solution will work for you. I do not think using the Pump was that bad an idea provided you did like I and some of the other posters suggested and have a positive lock out so you use one or the other not both. But if you are going to get a full 50amp service out of the deal then you would be better off if you need to run your coach air or other things.
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:55 AM   #30
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Not legal to run wiring through a supply air duct. Return air is ok provided that the wire is plenum rated or in conduit.
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:02 PM   #31
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I have had out RV shed/RVport tied to our well power for 12 years. No issues even during power loses and regains.
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:09 PM   #32
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Poster said that they found a path through the ductwork framing, not the ductwork itself. So, that's good.
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:10 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by wb7auk View Post
This is a major accident in the making even if the RV outlet is wired correctly.
When the 240 pump is on and the RV also is drawing power to run anything major
one of the hot leads will be over loaded BUT the neutral will be very over loaded
unless the wire size currently feeding the pump is larger than normal.
Without getting into detail it has to do with out of phase draw (pump) and in phase
draw (RV) at the same time on the same feed.
This is why I recommended a 240-120v step down transformer, to keep the loads balanced.
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:11 PM   #34
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If he's licensed and well respected he shouldn't be asking you any questions. Is your well operating at 220volt or 120volt. Your rv is 30amp 120Volt and it should really be on it's own circuit. Sounds like he's sharing it with something else just for convenience. I'd pass on that thought and have it on it's own circuit. Been in the trade 44 years. That's JMHO! Good Luck!
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:24 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek View Post
Poster said that they found a path through the ductwork framing, not the ductwork itself. So, that's good.
That is correct... there is a framed box that runs almost the length of the house and there is some duct work ran in it.
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:26 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by mhudson View Post
Most well pumps are 220v. If your RV is wired for 30 amp service major problem if he wires the rv outlet for 220v. Will toast most everything electrical in the RV. The rest I'm sure he understands.
If the electrician tapped only one leg of the 220 circuit then all is well. Just not a real good way to power your 30 amp circuit. Much better to use a single 30 amp service on a dedicated breaker and feed line.
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:08 PM   #37
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If the electrician tapped only one leg of the 220 circuit then all is well. Just not a real good way to power your 30 amp circuit.
Yes, but if the well line is 220 volt, it might not have a neutral running out to the pump since the pump doesn't need one. Therefore, there would be no way to tap off only one leg without running a new cable back to the panel. Avoiding running all the way was the reason for tapping off of the well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by calhyatt
Much better to use a single 30 amp service on a dedicated breaker and feed line.
Agreed. Fortunately they found a way to run the wire all the way back to the panel, so it will indeed be a dedicated circuit.
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