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Old 07-02-2015, 05:49 PM   #29
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Markus,
I don't think you understand that you have 2 separate battery systems. One system is for your chassis ( that is the engine starter and headlights, etc). The second system is your coach (house) batteries. These are primarily for lights, etc inside the coach
Both systems are 12 volt, not 6 or 24. Chassis batteries are usually 12 batteries and often are paired in parallel with another battery of the same size and type.
Coach batteries can be 12 volt or six volt. If using six volt batteries, think of each of them as 1/2 of a single 12volt battery. Two six volt batteries wired in series makes one large 12 volt battery.
Next you need to determine which batteries are coach and which are chassis. Then troubleshoot the two systems separately. I would start with the chassis ( starter).
Do you have a volt meter?
I'll check back tomorrow to see if I can help you.
I fully and completely understand they are 2 separate systems. That is what is so confusing about this entire problem I'm having and probably why it is so difficult for anyone to help me so far.

Yes, they are 2 separate systems. But for some reason or another, my engine will not turn over unless the 2 12v aux batteries are wired into a series.

I have literally tried every way possible to wire it up to get a different result and the only results I get is if the 2 aux are wired - to + by one wire.

Running ONLY the chassis + to the + on the chassis battery and the - to a ground on the frame/chassis to the - on the battery, yields no results.

Running the chassis + to the + on the aux battery that has more cranking amps while the frame/chassis - ground is attached to the aux battery, yields no results.

Keeping the above and then wiring my aux batteries in parallel, yields no results.

Running all the respective + and - wires to a single battery, yields no results.

Doing the above with the batteries in parallel, yields no results.

Running all of the batteries in parallel together with the wires shown in the PDF sent to me, yields no results.

The only result I get that fires up my engine and the generator is if I take a cable or a jumper cable and use that in a series on the aux batteries and turn the key, fires up my engine. Then I promptly take off the jumper cable or the wire so that the battery system stays off of 24v and in 12v.

The new problem I discovered today is that while my engine is running, everything is still on 24v. That's with no wire or jumper cable attaching it into a series.

I have gone so far as removing the aux batteries from the hood compartment and putting them on my bed, going back outside and trying, singularly, each positive connection I seen and putting the positive leads, one at a time, to the + on the chassis battery while the chassis battery was grounded. I even moved the ground to a new location and I get absolutely nothing at all except the usual "clank" from the starter motor.

When my girlfriend returns home from work tonight I'm going to try that other suggestion a few posts ago. That so far, is the only thing I haven't tried doing yet.
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:53 PM   #30
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Markus
Sorry, I did not mean to insult you.
Have you checked all the ground connections to your starter? I think you may have a high resistance connection. That could be one explanation for your starter turning over at the higher voltage and just grunting with 12 volts. You can try connecting a large jumper cable from the battery- to a starter mounting bolt. Many years ago they used a braided wire strap from the chassis frame to the engine block. I worked on a car that a bolt holding the strap on one end had worked loose.
Anyway it's another thing you can check.
Good luck.
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:02 PM   #31
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Markus
Sorry, I did not mean to insult you.
Have you checked all the ground connections to your starter? I think you may have a high resistance connection. That could be one explanation for your starter turning over at the higher voltage and just grunting with 12 volts. You can try connecting a large jumper cable from the battery- to a starter mounting bolt. Many years ago they used a braided wire strap from the chassis frame to the engine block. I worked on a car that a bolt holding the strap on one end had worked loose.
Anyway it's another thing you can check.
Good luck.
My apologies. I didn't mean to insinuate that you were insulting me or to take it as such. I know that you were only trying to help.

I'm just starting to get really frustrated with this problem I'm having and the advice I'm getting is only repeating over and over again and nothing has changed no matter if I have done it one time or one hundred times. I don't think I can keep trying the same thing that many times and keep expecting different results. I may as well be kicking myself in the ass if I do.

That is something I am willing to try out first thing in the morning. My girlfriends sow...errr mother is in the hospital so she never made it to work so I haven't been able to try out the previous advice since we share a car. And right now there's not enough light out to clearly see anything you've advised me on.
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:13 PM   #32
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The only positive cable you need is off you 12v chassis battery to your starter as the diagram shows.
Your starter should be grounded to the chassis frame, by the bolts mounting it to the frame, there is a starter solenoid on the starter also that maybe giving you a problem also.
Everything in coach works off 12v if you accidently send the 24v into coach you will run the risk of blowing fuses or worst burning out control boards for your electronic systems.
A ground will be sent to the starter from your ignition switch to complete the circuit to start the starter.
I know you must be getting frustrated with this problem maybe you need to just sit back and check what has been discussed and maybe the answer will hit you, you have made good progress on other items you have tackled a break from this may help.
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:26 PM   #33
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The only positive cable you need is off you 12v chassis battery to your starter as the diagram shows.
Your starter should be grounded to the chassis frame, by the bolts mounting it to the frame, there is a starter solenoid on the starter also that maybe giving you a problem also.
Everything in coach works off 12v if you accidently send the 24v into coach you will run the risk of blowing fuses or worst burning out control boards for your electronic systems.
So far the only thing I've blown is my water pump because it was on when I first got my batteries hooked up per the diagram. I'm trying my hardest to limit starting up my MH in the way I have been having to do it. But even then, as I said before today, it seems to be unavoidable on getting that much current flowing through everything. When my engine is running, all my DC outlets are producing 24v. And that is with the aux batteries OUT of series, I shut the engine off immediately after discovering that. I found that out today because my new ritual has been to get my multimeter out and get voltage readings on everything before I plug it into an outlet of any kind. And since right now the only outlets that work are my DC outlets, it's all I've been needing to check. I even checked my new 410w inverter to make sure it was 120v at the outlet before I even plugged anything into that. I believe I'm becoming either paranoid of something blowing or shorting out or it's becoming an obsessive disorder because of these problems I've had. Either way I would rather be safe than sorry.
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Old 07-02-2015, 10:10 PM   #34
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"Running ONLY the chassis + to the + on the chassis battery and the - to a ground on the frame/chassis to the - on the battery, yields no results."

What is the "Chassis +" cable you are using connected to other than the battery?

If by "chassis +" you have attached only the wire that runs to the Solenoids in the schematic, you do not have a positive cable running to the starter!

Per the diagram, there should be TWO Cables attached to the positive pole of the battery.

One runs to the chassis solenoid in the diagram. The chassis positive wire.

The other positive cable runs to the starter (off to the left in the schematic).... As recommended several times above, attach a jumper cable to the positive pole of the battery and to the positive connection at the starter. Then try the key.
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Old 07-02-2015, 11:19 PM   #35
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Chassis + is the positive cable labeled chassis from the battery control center.

You have underlined that I don't have a positive cable running to the starter but that is literally impossible since it turns over on 24 volts. And attempts to turn over on 12 volts but fails. The only truth to that is a direct + cable running directly to the starter from the + on the battery. It has to be getting power somehow other than from the chassis battery because it does turn the engine over, just not on 12v.

I am going to try the 2 methods that are new to the thread tomorrow when I wake up and see if my results change.
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Old 07-03-2015, 12:03 AM   #36
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you said that it started at first then started to click sounds like you had a low voltage start attemp which shorted the disk in the starter solenoid it is burnt and now only works at the higher voltage which can jump across the burnt contacts take the solenoid apart and clean the disk or replace the solenoid. recheck all batt conections and make sure they are correct.
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Old 07-03-2015, 02:40 AM   #37
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I'll also try that as well. I wasn't sure that I could take it apart. It seemed like a sealed unit from the front. It's hard to describe in text what it does. When I get my tablet back from hisense I'll upload the video I made to YouTube so everyone can see and hear everything I have been experiencing if the problem hasn't been solved by these new ideas. I really appreciate the new direction this is going in order to solve my problems.
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:31 AM   #38
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Tried to reply.
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:38 AM   #39
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007,
Starters are not mounted on the frame, they're mounted to the engine. The engine is mounted to the frame with rubber (or similar insulators) mounts. Engines are grounded through a large gauge wire from the frame
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:44 AM   #40
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Your right ChasA, that's why I have seen braided cable to engine from frame.
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Old 07-04-2015, 04:33 PM   #41
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Well I only have 2 solenoids that I'm able to take apart and 2 that are sealed off so I can't check those. The ones I was able to open up look pretty new on the inside to be honest. The springs and magnet work freely. I was going to try running a jumper cable to the positive terminal on the starter motor just to test that theory, but I'm unable to safely do so. There is a large metal plate just above the starter motor and it's too tight of an area to get the alligator clamp where it needs to be without grounding it out on that plate. I'm assuming it's a heat shield between the block and the starter. I'll have to find another means of getting a wire to it. The ones I currently have aren't long enough to reach between the battery terminal and the starter.
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:08 AM   #42
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Markus. Have you made any progress?
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