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Old 06-22-2015, 04:40 PM   #1
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Electrical wiring for whole rv

1994 Fleetwood Coronado

Is there one available for my rv anywhere??? :( I have used the link(s) that 007 has provided me in a previous posting of mine and the only thing that does come up in searches is battery diagrams. Which I'm about done and over with. I'm just getting annoyed at this stage. It seems that my question has been asked on a couple of sites and instead of the questioner getting the diagram, the answerer (rv certified mechanic) refuses to provide one and just asks the questioner a bunch of questions related to their problem to try solving it. Which would be fine if I only had one problem to deal with but I don't.

The reason I'm looking for the complete diagram is so that I can go over all the systems to figure out and trace back issues I'm having with my outlets and DC plug ins. The only power I get inside my coach are the 12v lights and a single vent fan. Everything else is dead. And I can't get my gen to start or even attempt to turn over even while jumped to a car. I'm trying to stay away from plugging in my 30amp cord until I've gone over the whole system to make sure there's not going to be a fire hazard or any other hazards. Also If I need to replace anything then I need to know where it goes and how to get it there. I would be willing to use a crude drawing from ms paint at this point, if it were a valid diagram. Search results are coming up with zilch. I'm not sure why any mechanic would keep wire diagrams such a big "secret" when Haynes manuals have entire breakdowns of just about every damn car on the planet. But I can't seem to get one on my rv that uses a light duty truck chassis with a 454 bolted to it.
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:51 PM   #2
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Have you contacted Fleetwood? Give them Make, model, VIN, and anything else that might narrow down your particular unit.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:08 PM   #3
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No I have not. Would they email me the PDF or just give me the owners manual PDF? If it's the latter I have read that thing along with every manual this thing came with repeatedly. Maybe repeatedly enough in hopes I've missed something or it would appear from thin air.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:28 PM   #4
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Markus, all you will have working just on your batteries are your lights, your furnace, a ceiling fan or two and maybee your fridge, if it operates on 12 VOLTS.
To start the GEN, you need at least 1/4 of your tank capacity and a good chassis battery, the same that starts the engine.
While running the GEN, you will find out that all your 115 VOLTS plugs work, your microwave, your tv and your air conditionner(s) and that probably, your fridge will switch to 115 VOLTS automaticly, if it has that option.
The same will happen when you will plug your 30 AMPS cord to a 30 AMPS circuit.
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:09 PM   #5
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Here is the phone number for Fleetwood. We have a Holiday Rambler and it's now owned by the same group. 800-648-6582

Have your VIN number ready. They are great and helped us alot. They emailed me some info I needed, also.
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:40 PM   #6
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Thank you for the number. I'll give them a call in the morning.

I was just going over my wire leads after I posted to make sure they're where they are supposed to be. (Previous issue since last owner had everything attached to house batteries) followed the starter lead to what looks like a junction housing. One goes to alternator and the other from the battery. There is another lead in the middle that looks like it was cut. I'm not sure what that went to?!? My batteries are shot so I'm going to pick up some brand new ones Friday. Hopefully that will solve a couple issues getting the motor to turn over without a jump and starting the gen. "Fingers crossed".

The only problem I'm having now is the starter motor isn't turning the engine over from a jump anymore. I hear it click but that's all I get out of it is a single click sound. Hopefully the new battery will solve that. If not, does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be?
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:31 PM   #7
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We can help. Just get your new batteries and test everything. Keep good notes. Get a volt meter too. Find and check all of your fuses. Flip all of your circuit breakers back and forth. Tighten all of the wires in your circuit breaker panel, both the neutral buss bar and the ground bus bar as well as the wires in each circuit breaker.
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Old 06-23-2015, 12:38 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by MarkusW View Post
Thank you for the number. I'll give them a call in the morning.

followed the starter lead to what looks like a junction housing. One goes to alternator and the other from the battery. There is another lead in the middle that looks like it was cut. I'm not sure what that went to?!? My batteries are shot so I'm going to pick up some brand new ones Friday. Hopefully that will solve a couple issues getting the motor to turn over without a jump and starting the gen. "Fingers crossed".

The only problem I'm having now is the starter motor isn't turning the engine over from a jump anymore. I hear it click but that's all I get out of it is a single click sound. Hopefully the new battery will solve that. If not, does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be?
1. Starting the generator is the same as plugging to shore power. That will power your 120vac circuits such as AC, TV, Outlets, Microwave, and Refer.

2. So if you plan on starting the generator, you may as well go ahead and plug to shore power. That may begin recharging the House Battery.

3. Your house battery sounds like it is working but without shore power, generator power, or alternator power it will die in short order. Your on board battery charger only works from Shore Power or Generator most likely.

4. Both the Chassis Battery and House Battery are charged from the alternator. If you have a battery charger you could charge the chassis battery for 24 hours and resume your testing of the engine start routine. Shore power will most likely not charge your chassis battery.

5. If the engine cranks when you have a full battery, then it would appear the start sequence is wired correctly for now and your engine start problem is at the engine, not the wiring.
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Old 06-23-2015, 08:27 PM   #9
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Make sure your ground strap from the engine to the frame is making good contact..the engine has to be grounded to the frame or the starter wont be grounded.
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:35 PM   #10
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I'll double check everything when I get the new batteries. The current ones won't hold a charge and now they're to weak to even be used to jump and my girlfriends car battery doesn't have enough cranking amps to turn over the engine. So I'm stuck where I'm parked at until then. I'm really hoping to pinpoint the problems before I put the new batteries in. I don't want to spend 300$ just for them to be ruined by whatever ruined the ones in currently. My aux and main battery disconnect switches don't work either. I've tested that out with my multi meter. I have no current flowing through the switches but I have a draw at the wire harness. The switches look corroded so I'm going to need to find a new switch panel.

The more I look, the more stuff I find wrong. It's kinda disappointing. I'm probably better off to quit looking at things and deal with problems as they come up.
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:44 PM   #11
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Mark,
I'm not sure how high end that coach was in 1994, but generally, until you go pretty darn high end (usually into the upper end of diesel) - the coaches are largely electrical "one-offs" at the assembly line. Wires not consistent. No real connectors. Everything crimped.

Welcome to RV ownership. In most cases, a diagram probably won't exist..
It may exist for *some* sub-systems... But unless you've got a Prevost or a Country Coach, likely a consistent means for coach wiring didn't happen.
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:01 AM   #12
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Yeah that's something I've noticed while doing the repairs to it since I got it. That's also probably why this is so frustrating to me and why I have so many questions. This is my first RV and I'm happy with it for what it is. I'm just not happy with how everything was slapped together and so inconsistent. Most of the wires aren't even crimped. Anything I've had to reconnect I've either crimped myself or have it ready to be soldered once I have everything back in its place. Half the connections I've come across were twisted together and held together by those plastic twist caps. They didn't even bother to use electrical tape to seal it up. If I had the time and money I would rip this thing apart and install my own wiring. But since I don't have that much of either I'm stuck trying to put together this 32 foot long puzzle. The only real wire harnesses I've seen so far are for the ac and the battery shut off switches.

Most of the replies I've gotten from my questions have been helpful and helped me figure out what was wrong after I've been stumped on it for a few days. Eventually I won't have any more issues with this RV and I can go onto enjoying it a whole lot more.
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Old 06-26-2015, 03:34 PM   #13
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I ended up giving them a call and they sent me the schematic for my MH. Found out that just about everything now works. I can start without the motor hesitating and the gen runs. Although for that I need a new fuel line since there are several small pinholes up the line going towards the filter. After that I can do a full systems check. So thank you draboo for their phone number. :thumbup:
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Old 06-27-2015, 10:03 AM   #14
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Its good to hear things are looking up after your deep commitment to stick with your project.
You now have a big picture of your MH good luck in your future with it and safe travels.
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