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Old 07-01-2016, 08:23 AM   #1
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Engine Access for Maintenance - Procedures

Newbie to Motorhome question:

I build race cars, so I'm a pretty decent mechanic overall. However, this is my first motorhome (96 Newmar Kountry Air Gas), and I'm looking at this engine "bay" and trying to figure out how the hell you get in there to do anything?

I just bought this and need to do plugs/wires, and drive belt on it just for good measure, plus put a new exhaust manifold gasket on it (slight leak). That last one seems easy, the others, not so much.

Can someone give me the 101 on getting in there? I see a bunch of stuff in the front end that looks like it can come off for easier access, but is it just a matter of climbing in there to get to the front of the engine?

Thank you in advance!
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Old 07-01-2016, 10:21 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinbdavis View Post
Newbie to Motorhome question:

I build race cars, so I'm a pretty decent mechanic overall. However, this is my first motorhome (96 Newmar Kountry Air Gas), and I'm looking at this engine "bay" and trying to figure out how the hell you get in there to do anything?

I just bought this and need to do plugs/wires, and drive belt on it just for good measure, plus put a new exhaust manifold gasket on it (slight leak). That last one seems easy, the others, not so much.

Can someone give me the 101 on getting in there? I see a bunch of stuff in the front end that looks like it can come off for easier access, but is it just a matter of climbing in there to get to the front of the engine?

Thank you in advance!
according to which maintenance we were going to do, we either #1 removed the front wheels and threw a piece of carpet on the rotor and lay across the carpet and worked the exhaust manifolds, the plugs and wires, etc. #2 If working on the top of the engine. Remove the doghouse and access the top and upper radiator hose. Some doghouses are two piece. You remove the small access for light service and the lower piece for more access. The lower piece of a two piece dog house has a flange under the carpet. You first remove the screws and then cut loose the sealant.
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Old 07-01-2016, 12:06 PM   #3
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And now you have learned one of the big advantages of a side radiator configuration! And a full-width engine access door.

By the way, you should have a removable floor section in the bedroom, above the engine. Necessary to get at some components.
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Old 07-01-2016, 12:13 PM   #4
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And now you have learned one of the big advantages of a side radiator configuration! And a full-width engine access door.

By the way, you should have a removable floor section in the bedroom, above the engine. Necessary to get at some components.
Is the "(96 Newmar Kountry Air Gas)" a UFO? Not being funny, just curious.
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Old 07-01-2016, 02:15 PM   #5
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Is the "(96 Newmar Kountry Air Gas)" a UFO? Not being funny, just curious.
Looks like a front engine gasser to me.
http://www.newmarcorp.com/wp-content...06/1996kab.pdf

Maybe Gary missed that. I know I can admit misreading things from time to time
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Old 07-01-2016, 02:49 PM   #6
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Is the "(96 Newmar Kountry Air Gas)" a UFO? Not being funny, just curious.
Haha, yeah, sort of a strange one from Newmar back in the day. Should read Kountry Aire 3755. Really nice coach, actually, well built. This one had about 60,000 miles on it, and we bought it from an older couple that are friends of ours.
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Old 07-01-2016, 02:51 PM   #7
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according to which maintenance we were going to do, we either #1 removed the front wheels and threw a piece of carpet on the rotor and lay across the carpet and worked the exhaust manifolds, the plugs and wires, etc. #2 If working on the top of the engine. Remove the doghouse and access the top and upper radiator hose. Some doghouses are two piece. You remove the small access for light service and the lower piece for more access. The lower piece of a two piece dog house has a flange under the carpet. You first remove the screws and then cut loose the sealant.
Thank you! The exhaust manifolds are pretty easy to get to, and the plug side, dizzy is a little more difficult, as well as the belt. I'll just have to practice my contortionist skills!
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Old 07-02-2016, 11:16 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by ga traveler View Post
according to which maintenance we were going to do, we either #1 removed the front wheels and threw a piece of carpet on the rotor and lay across the carpet and worked the exhaust manifolds, the plugs and wires, etc. #2 If working on the top of the engine. Remove the doghouse and access the top and upper radiator hose. Some doghouses are two piece. You remove the small access for light service and the lower piece for more access. The lower piece of a two piece dog house has a flange under the carpet. You first remove the screws and then cut loose the sealant.
Geeez! And people say DPs are hard to work on!!
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Old 07-02-2016, 11:42 AM   #9
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Geeez! And people say DPs are hard to work on!!
Yeah, this configuration is definitely going to leave something to be desired for maintenance, but I can swing it. Thankful that my exhaust manifold leak is on the passenger side, which on this coach has better access. We'll see when I do the plugs and wires, but I feel pretty confident I can get up in there pretty easily.
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Old 07-02-2016, 12:29 PM   #10
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And now you have learned one of the big advantages of a side radiator configuration! And a full-width engine access door.
Sorry - I missed that the coach was a front engine gas chassis. Ignore that!

Last Kountry Aire I saw was a pusher, so I guess I stopped reading once I saw that name.
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Old 07-04-2016, 12:29 PM   #11
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And now you have learned one of the big advantages of a side radiator configuration! And a full-width engine access door.

By the way, you should have a removable floor section in the bedroom, above the engine. Necessary to get at some components.
That's a big 10-4
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:18 PM   #12
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Lots of tools with extensions. Then reach and grunt.
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