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Old 12-17-2012, 04:59 AM   #15
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BTW, you may want to buy a few pairs of inexpensive scissors .... the blades accumulate adhesive as you cut and it's time consuming to keep cleaning the blades. I I used 409/fantastic/etc. for initial dirt removal then alcohol (gallon can at HD or Lowes) .... about $12 ... less aggressive than acetone.

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Old 12-17-2012, 06:33 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by OldChief7155 View Post
Adhesion is the key,not the way it looks. Anybody but me up there is trespassing? I did try to be as neat as possible but there are some small wrinkles on hard to...
tis why its important to plan your runs. Its near impossible to run a straight line of the material without a 2nd party to hold the tape. If you get overlaps/bubbles...the tape was on crooked. Its harder the wider the tape gets.

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Old 12-17-2012, 07:17 AM   #17
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I washed my roof w/Dawn dish soap and then cleaned the perimeter w/ 409 before applying the Eternabond (color white). On the long sides I started at the back and worked forward w/ one joint about midway so the Ebond would over lap front to back in case wind would pull it up at the joint. But the way it sticks probably wouldn't happen. I had a body shop replace the top cap on one side of the MH after getting hit w/a hail storm and they used an aluminum type finish Ebond that I want to replace w/ White Ebond sometime in the future. I didn't remove any caulk and used the 4" material and a roller and after 4 years still looks perfect.

2002 Dutchstar, Spartan Chassis, 350 Cummins, 2012 Explorer.
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