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Old 12-14-2012, 09:39 PM   #1
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Eternabond

I am getting ready to order some Eternabond apply to my motorhome roof.

Anyone have some good tips?

I have looked at other postings. Some people use acetone to clean along the seam area. Has anyone used Simple Green or Krud Cutter? I am little nervous about using acetone and accidental spills. The Eternabond dvd they used Krud Cutter to clean the roof before applying.

I was thinking about using it on my skylight and other vents. Is it difficult to remove. I saw an Eternabond dvd and they recommended using grey one step around the vents and skylights. Why? Anyone do this?

Is it best to apply the Eternabond along the end caps first or along the top sides first?

Thanks ..............
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:49 PM   #2
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Just did this on the 40' DP. I used a heat gun and putty knife to take 99% of the old lap sealant off. Then cleaned all areas with lacquer thinner. Let dry and sprayed with eternabond primer before putting tape down. Finally, I used Dicor self leveling on the areas where tape was not optimal and on all tape to tape edges as the eternabond doesn't stick well to itself.

It took me 3 long days, but my 13 year old roof has no leaks.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXredfish View Post
I am getting ready to order some Eternabond apply to my motorhome roof.

Anyone have some good tips?

I have looked at other postings. Some people use acetone to clean along the seam area. Has anyone used Simple Green or Krud Cutter? I am little nervous about using acetone and accidental spills. The Eternabond dvd they used Krud Cutter to clean the roof before applying.

I was thinking about using it on my skylight and other vents. Is it difficult to remove. I saw an Eternabond dvd and they recommended using grey one step around the vents and skylights. Why? Anyone do this?

Is it best to apply the Eternabond along the end caps first or along the top sides first?

Thanks ..............
To do it properly... you need to plan your cuts. You also need the primer spray as mentioned above for the best results. Also a heavy pressure roller to seat the tape.
You cant use it effectively on "round" penetrations. Lap sealant would work better there. On roof seams & skylights... it will work great.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:18 PM   #4
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So, where is the best deal on Eternabond? What width?
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:26 PM   #5
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What is a 'round penetration'?
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:55 PM   #6
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Radio antennae, air horn bases, etc.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:09 AM   #7
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So, where is the best deal on Eternabond? What width?
On the cap seams... I did 6". Some suggested putting lap sealant over the edges but in my experience... the Eternabond tape is much stronger and requires less followup when done properly. (clean, prep, priming, & rolling)

On skylights... I would make sure your leading edges are facing the front of the coach.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:14 AM   #8
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What is a 'round penetration'?



You could use the 6" wide tape to overlap but its difficult to lay flat. With some practice and time it could be done.
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:25 AM   #9
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Eterna bond is great. My roof is fiberglass so I put the tape around vents and other places where there are seams. Cleaned and scraped area before applying the tape. Its so sticky you must handle it carefully because it sticks to anything it touches.
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:50 PM   #10
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tape install

I had good luck with simple green 50/50 mix for cleaning before install used 2" on the gutter rail & 4" across the front cap seam the rear seam had dicor on it and it was in good shape so I left it on. the wooden roller also worked well it's been on for two years now holding up good try Best Materials LLC they had good prices. Good luck.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:07 AM   #11
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I used Acetone and Paint Thinner and cut small pieces to fit around the round penitrations and made sure I started at the rear of each penetration so the final piece overlapped the rear pieces to minimize the seams facing the direction of travel. I used the Eterna-Bond 4" tape on everything that could remotely leak. I also replaced the Vent Pipe covers with a Syphon-360 vent, the refrigerator vent and the crummy Vent-line fan vent in the bathroom. I removed the Fantastic vent and Skylight to reseal them to the roof before applying the tape.

Make sure you round the edges of any putty knife you use on a Rubber roof to minimize chances of poking a hole in the membrane. The only thing I did not remove was the Air Horns, TV Antenna and roof ladder. Looking back now I would also remove them. Good Luck and take your time to do it right. It took me two years for the complete job. Ed
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:28 AM   #12
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Huh. All I've ever done is wash the roof with mild dish washing soap, rinsed and let dry. Then applied the tape. Sticks like crazy. Not sure how you can get it off but I've never tried either.

As far as what to do first, I'd start at the front cap seam, then work along the sides. I cleaned up the old seam material on the end caps but didn't remove it because the 4" Eternabond overlaps it by an inch or two on either side. Then, I'd cut it in 6' strips as you go along the sides...easier to handle and get on straight. Butt joints or 1/4" overlaps would both work IMO.

When it came to vent pipes, I cut round holes in the Eternabond using a sharp knife and scissors, then slipped it over the vent pipes. Half round cuts work too.

If'n ya wanna make it purty, run a seam of clear silicon along the exposed edges of the Eternabond. That prevents it from accumulating dirt and turning dark.
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:52 PM   #13
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Have used Ebond successfully on our coach. As others have said, the surface must be clean.

One suggestion. Purchase the Ebond roller that is available. The thing is industrial strength, and you should find it extremely useful in applying the Ebond properly. It's not inexpensive, but you can find it priced competitively on several websites. Money well spent, IMO.

Ebond can also be cut into small pieces, even with rounded corners. You can become fairly creative with the stuff. When I did the side-to-roof seams and roof-to-cap seams, I rounded the intersections at these points and "styled" the Ebond such that it "kinda' blends into the factory graphics and doesn't appear so much as tape application. Kinda' fun really, and it has prompted several positive comments along the way. But...fit the pieces in place first before removing the backing from the tape. As others have said, the stuff really sticks...so be sure it goes where and how you want it. Hope this helps....
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:52 PM   #14
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I used acetone to clean the area prior to applying Eternabond per their recommendation. You can do vents etc., but use small pieces. Adhesion is the key,not the way it looks. Anybody but me up there is trespassing? I did try to be as neat as possible but there are some small wrinkles on hard to do areas.

WD-40 will help break the adhesion once you get an edge up with a putty knife.

Best Materials on the net is the cheapest I've found.
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